ScottS
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Posts posted by ScottS
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Obviously, they had a bit of a rethink on that since on a couple of the "specials" made prior to the move to an in-tank pump, the pump was relocated to under the steering head [Tenni, & iirc, MR? Centauro?] where it could get some cooling air flow...
can anyone direct me to photos/diagrams of the Tenni set up ?
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To give the proper credit where the credit is properly due, it is the article Moto Guzzi V11 Sport in Motorcyclist, October 2000, where the author, John Burns, concludes by saying,
"Progress is sometimes a while in coming at Moto Guzzi, and sometimes Guzzi progress has a slightly regressive quality to it - but overall this is a fine piece of work in need of a little owner involvement or maybe just tolerance."
If Burns had known, at the time, he would have said, "Expect to join V11LeMans.com; post prolifically, it's part of the owner involvement."
A "fine piece of work" indeed!
Great catch- I love that quote !
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I disconnect the line from the petcock to burp it. Then I have no problem. Even if I idle at a traffic light too long in 80 degree plus temps it will start to spit and stumble. I think it may be too lean to begin with. But it;s real sensitive to temperature.
I have a manual petcock to install ( one of these days) which should help. If you have the electric petcock there is a good chance it isn't working , but the pump sucks it open anyways, unless you have vapor in the lines.
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you can get one of these left hand drills big enough to take off the head - either it will grab enough to unscrew it while you are drilling , or you will get the head off which will allow tou to remove the cooler and put some vice grips on the exposed threads and break it loose
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uess I should downshift, I have been running around 2800 rpm , I do wind up to 5-6k when accelerating but work my way into 6th
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yup the broken electric petcock will fail in the closed position. but a fuel pump in good health can suck it open, hiding the failure until either you have vapor in the lines or the fuel pump can't generate enough vacuum to hold it open.
It happened again, and I'm about to give up on this bike.
This past friday, on my birthday, I went for a ride in the beautiful rolling country side, 75 degrees, cool breeze, perfect. Then it happened again, I dont know if it's Vapor Lock, or Tank suck, or ECU heat sink, or Fuel Pump, or relays, or just bad karma .... 30 miles from home, I was riding down the road at 45 mph, she started backfiring, then slowly coughed and sputtered to a stop. 1 hour later, started up, ran for 1/4 mile, did the same thing. Some cyclists rode by and commented on what a cool bike I had, as they cheerfully peddled off. I had to call a buddy to come pick me up in the middle of nowhere, on his day off. (Last year when this happened, I paid $40 to a 15 year old kid, and we put it in the back of his Ford Ranger with a huge sticker across the back window that read "Coon Hunters do it all night". There's a lot more to that hilarious story that involves under age cigarettes, catching a t-shirt in the cab on fire, and his buddies worried that I was going to rape him.
Some info:
'00 V11 sport 7k miles.
All relays replaced 1k ago
Adjusted Valves
wrapped fuel line and fuel pump in racing heat shield
new plugs
yesterday, bike started perfectly in the garage, ran for 15 minutes, seemingly no problems.
I have read everything I can on this gremlin. Last year the problem was more typical. 85 degree day, I stopped to make a call, problem occured when I started back up. That is what prompted the valve adjust, heat shielding and plugs. I've probably ridden 300 miles this season, without problems until last weekend.
I'm stumped, any and all advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
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Had my 'chops painted black as I didn't fancy the red anodized ones. No hassle (left the job to the painter :-)).
Only hick-up is that my boots (heels) have scratched some of the paint off but that's due to my silly riding style, I suppose (keeping the toes on the footpeg instead of the entire footsole).
See some pics here: My link
Søren
wow your bike looks good. I have to say , you must be huge- it looks like a minibike with you on it lol
edit: I see that is your son Chris !
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There isn't nearly enough stuff in that garage
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wow beautiful project
now that you are running out of things to do , I would make the muffler brackets more "interesting" ( cnc machined aluminum , with more 3 dimensional detiaql and lightening holes etc ) not a criticism just a suggestion
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been in Brazil for a while and also here at home it is -4 , but did see a BMW k series on the road yesterday ( my fear of ice patches keeps me home)
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Don't know if this makes a difference , but turning the ignition on , letting the pump run till it stops 3-4 times in a row seems to result in faster starts . You should check out the "accumulated fuel line vacuum bubble " issue in this forum as it may be a related issue as well.
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Looks like no progress since early August, David?
Say David
This look familiar?
Rubbing compound is your friend here, but I wouldn't use a Dremel. Too much risk of burning the paint.
But o' course, that's just me.
Boy that is familiar , that's my bike ! How funny !
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Yup, that's exactly what it looks like. Red as blood on one side and pink as a Pansie on the other. Really kind of embarrassing around the guys.
Especially Guzzi people, they point it out in less than 30 seconds after I drive up to the local hang out.
The dremmel has a buffing attachment but I'll see what good old elbow grease does with the rubbing combound,
I earlier tried using a medium strength cleaner and rubbing and that did squat.
Pleas take some before and after shots
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Well I am now convinced the "accumulated bubble" in the lines after many starts is the issue- I had the no start condition last week ( at 1 AM ) and the temps were very cool and the bike had been sitting at least an hour. I pulled the hose off the petcock n put it back on and she started right up. Maybe a T fitting with a schraeder valve would facilitate quick bleeding. I read of a re-routing of the lines to fix this and I will probably look at this this winter.
Just prior to this she had started to cough off idle and generally run ratty ( lean)
After the bleeding , ran super .
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Add me to list as my prawl spring thingie broke - for the second time - today on my way home from work. Managed to sneak home in 1st gear at 6.000 rpm going 60 km/h.
Pleased as fook, chuffed like hell...
Søren
PS: Tried to find a decent translation of the word 'boss' but the only thing that comes up is 'boss' (surprise, surprise) as it's the same in Danish. I'm referring to the boss where the spring is attached. Any good suggestions in either German, Dutch, Swedish, Urdu or Swahili? Please help, senores.
TIA
Søren
PPS: And thanks for the reference numbers, Gary. I was also scrolling through various links in order to find them.
To me, that is a post or pin, not a boss. At least as an English speaker . A boss is more monolithic and typically an integral part of whatever it sticks out of. Of cours ei Am assuming that is what this is, something screwed into the casting ? if it is cast in, them I guess boss is correct.
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Thank you for the pictures, they will hopefully not be needed but I could see doing this in the winter just as a preventative measure.
I occasionally find a false neutral between 3-4 up shift but it just may be my small feet. I am going to research the adjustments mentioned first.
If I have to take things apart to make the adjustment ( unknown to me at this time) I may do thos upgrade as well.
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OK. I took the advice I found in the FAQ section and called Bonnie of Cannon Race Craft ( http://www.cannonracecraft.com ) at (405) 524 7223 and ordered two (one spare) of their improved springs (very nice people by the way). They priority mailed them so I hope to see them soon. I'll post back on how the installation goes with these.
In the meantime, is it true that I do not need any type of gasket when bolting the shift assembly back to the trans? Should I at least use some kind of liquid gasket or something? Seems like it will leak for sure if I don't.
Thanks.
Boy us rookies could really use pictures !
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The previous owner doesnt know if the work was done or not (mutilple owners). Is there a register in the U.S to see if the work has already been done ?
Cheers
Bruce
My local dealer was able to check online, but it involved a lot of swearing.
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Scott, FYI - there are many posts on surface cracking of intake rubbers.
FWIW, I had the same concern as yourself 6 years ago and bought a set of new ones, with the idea that I wanted a set on hand for what appeared to be impending failure. I still have them in ozone-protective plastic bags in "spares stock", still with no problem with the orignials -- and this is after the stress of working them off and back on for gearbox warantee work 6 years ago.
A definitive test for leaking intake rubbers is to open an (unlit!
) propane torch at idle, and direct the flow around the area. If there's a leak, RPMs will rise very noticeably.Hope this helps.
Thank you for this info, its terrific. I really appreciate it .
My bike seems to have had a lot of UV exposure , but I just assumed the cracking was unique to me . I will research it , but just on general principles I will replace the rubbers
But I understand that it may not be my problem
Thanks agian
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Now, no other V11 owners here have said they have this problem? is it normal (not my bad miss I am yet to sort but the mild mag drop at 28)
now thats a good tast in cars, if only I could afford a TR5.
Mine(2000 V11) does exactly this- odd random misfires at 2800. Since I bought it used , and it always does this , I have no idea what caused it- but I can see my throttle body rubbers are definitely cracking , I have new ones.
Once our riding season is over ( November sometime) I will replace the rubbers, do a valve adjustment and set the TPS's so I know what i am dealing with
Although I kinda like cruising through town at 2800 rpm and listening to her burble through the CF cans !
3500-7000 RPM she runs awesome
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I replaced FPR but still rich.
I tested 2 WRBER RPM-40 and a BOSCH 3.0 bar.
connected Fuel pressure gauge to fuel return line
indicated 3.6 bar! 3.6bar is too high I think.
Manual says 3.0+-0.2.
What is wrong?
so 3 bar is 44 psi, you have 53 all 3 regulators are high ?
Maybe your gauge reads high ? Are you supposed to read it at the return line ?
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Say Scott, you go to the church so early in the morning too?
Yes there is a 7:30 AM mass, gets the day going early ! The farmers like it
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Those figures are good so I'll throw in this in case you measured with a digital meter: I have a hunch that some digital volt meters are not happy at all about frequencies other than 50 and 60 Hz. This could lead to a misreading. I think I read about one such case on a Guzzi although the misreading was at higher RPM than idle. If you think this makes any sense whatsoever you could try wiring everything up (if you didn't already) and measure DC at battery when charging instead.
The good old analog meters are... good and old
And in some cases they are much better. I actually bought one recently before they become unobtainable. I also have a vinyl turntable somewhere yes, my fancy new digital VOM is unusable. I have reverted back to the good ole analog one. I know I am the problem, but I can never tell what the heck the digital one is trying to tell me.
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How funny – I was just thinking this morning, after I posted the countryside pics last night, that there are few pics posted of bikes 'about town', in comparison to the open road.
Great. There should be more.
I think your pics are terrific, thanks for sharing them-hope to see many more .
Hot Start Woes
in Technical Topics
Posted
anyone have a link to a parts schematic for that model ? i have one for my 2000 V11, not sure what year Tenni that is. would be pretty easy to buy the bracket and hoses , I assume- the pump is probably the same