ScottS
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Posts posted by ScottS
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Welcome!! Nice bike!
Wow nice color
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Just a few pics from a 7 am ride this morning
I didn't take this last one, but it is the courthouse in the town square , directly behind where I was standing when I took the picture of the church -and i have always liked this pic
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2000 V11
1996 KTM 360 MXC
2001 KTM 300 EXC ( with plates !)
20001 KTM 200 MXC
1973 Honda CL450
Diamondback Coil SS
used to have approx 25 Pentons- All gone now.
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Boy, the going up an incline is a clue- I just don't know what it is pointing at - the need for more fuel, the need for more air , an electrical/ignition problem ?
could it be that there is something amiss inside the tank and the flow of fuel into the petcock is blocked by something , and it is worse when the front wheel is higher ?
Could the return line being restricted or blocked have the similar effect ? ( I don't think so )
Going up an incline requires maybe more power - hence more fuel than it is getting ? is there a bypass in the system to return fuel to the tank ( maybe that is in the fuel pressure regulator) if that is malfunctioning you may have reduced fuel pressure
I guess it would make sense to measure fuel flow and pressure at the injectors to see if you have a fuel problem or an air problem , or a crazy electrical problem (incorrect timing would reduce power ) maybe the crank position sensor is defective or vibrating/moving
What a puzzle
I guess ensuring fuel flow and pressure at the injectors would kill that as an avenue, or point to a problem
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Pic as requested. I agree that the standard clip-ons are by no means radical, and are actually extremely comfortable at speeds over 60 mph or so. They are not so good at lower speeds though - too much weight on wrists. But the main reason I've changed to normal bars is that it makes it much easier to manhandle the bike (which is a big heavy lump) round hairpins, doing U-turns etc. I managed to drop the bike twice, both times at approximately 0 mph, simply because the standard clip-ons didn't allow me to get enough leverage to stop it falling in when the bike stalled half way through a U-turn (thanks to a duff relay). Hopefully the new bars (and new relays) will cure me of this nasty habit!
Boy that came out nice- thanks
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I've put normal bars on my Scura. The way I did it was to (1) remove clip-ons and top yoke (2) Drill the yoke, so as to be able to fit single-bolt handelbar risers (there are bosses cast into the bottom of the yoke where the holes need to be drilled) (3) re-fitted yoke (4) fitted a pair of 2.5 inch pull-back risers to drilled yoke (5) fitted Renthal ultra-low bars to risers. (6) fitted all switches etc. to bars (you need to drill a couple of small holes in the bars to accept the pegs that stop the switches rotating). It was all reasonably straightforward, though it took a few hours. All the cables, brake lines etc. were long enough with a bit of re-routing. It might be possible to drill the top yoke without removing it, but it's an expensive mistake if you ruin it, so I think I did the right thing removing it - that way you can make sure the holes are drilled in the right places and square to the yoke. Total cost was about £60, so cheap enough. Providing you are a reasonably competent at mechanic, you shouldn't have any problem. Having done it, I definitely prefer the more upright riding position, especially around tight country lanes. It's still quite a sporty position though - not cruiser style - and quite a long reach to the bars, though using pull back risers helps. I don't think you could go any higher than the ultra-lows without getting longer brake and clutch lines made up. Hope this helps - if you want I'll go out and take a photo, so you can see what it looks like. Cheers
Pictures of this set up would be welcome.
I do have to say I felt just like the original poster , but only until I actually rode the bike. Now I don't feel the need to change it. But I would try your set up , because you never know until you try .....
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A few more
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A few taken in front of my house
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Which part # petcock do you have ? I have RBN015164 , it is an alternative to the electric ( a Moto Guzzi part ) and is supposed to supercede the electric, I don't think that it would be so restrictive, but Haven't installed it yet - so I am very interested in this topic
Here is what I have
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Thanks for all of the excellent replies. There is no suck issue on my red frame V11 and the fuel pump sounds normal. It feels like I am pumping fuel from a reservoir (e.g. the full fuel line) when I twist the throttle but the input to the reservoir (e.g petcock) cannot "refill" it at a fast enough rate. I will check filters and then revert back to old elec petcock as needed. I thought the manual petcock would be better in that it is "simpler"! I will report back, thanks again.
Which part # petcock do you have ? I have RBN015164 , it is an alternative to the electric ( a Moto Guzzi part ) and is supposed to supercede the electric, I don't think that it would be so restrictive, but Haven't installed it yet - so I am very interested in this topic
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Very well written. I too have been longing to express this same feeling into words. I think you hit the nail on the head. I stopped purchasing the typical bike rag, and now start purchasing bike mags based more on typical riding, touring, etc.
How fast can we really go on the streets?
How much power is too much power for the street? I've actually become bored with the 150+ HP machines, its like having a loaded gun between your legs that can never be fully exercised. This frustrated me, and led me down the path of lower HP, simplistic machines, and a ton more of that missing feeling/relationship that you speak of above.
Thank you for the well written comments.
Yup you can enjoy a 250cc 4 stroke single ridden to its limits as much as a 150hp rocket that you cant leave 2nd gear with. Even the (relatively) lower powered V11 can get you in trouble quite quickly- I passed a truck with a wfo whack in 2nd and ended up doing a verrrrrry long stoppie at the red light i didn't see down the road because the truck blocked it. Ver impressed withthe brakes/front tire though !
I can have just as much fun with 15hp and 150. and the modern sportbikes are just appliances to me- I bought the Guzzi because it jumped up and down and said "ride me !"
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Yep, razor sharp bunch there all right.
True, but a thoroughly warmed up machine that is shut off to read the VIN and then re-started, would the 3 minute rich cycle start over ?
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Wow this is good info- its great when resolutions are posted. Thanks !
Would the computer on a 2000 V11 have the same 3k revs subroutine ? Or a variation ?
3 minutes is a long time! Especailly when you want to adjust stuff
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Wow you captured my feelings exacly - Thank you !
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I have wanted a v11 since they came out , and just a month ago i was able to pick one up that needed some TLC, which made her affordable.
Rarely has any machine appealed to me on so many levels.
I colllect and race Corvairs , so I like to be a little off the beaten path, and the Guzzi certianly fills that need.
My desire was purely visual , since I had never ridden one , because I love the lines of the bodywork, voloptous but sparse- and the engine layout has aways intrigued me- I love the look .
What was a pleasant surprise is the personality the bike has- As soon as you light it off, you know there is a big twin thumping away - the soundtrack is incredible - qnd once underway , it is happy to achieve whatver velocity you dictate , and even though the V11 may be underpowered by some standards , it still writes checks the brakes can't cash - (and these are incredible brakes )- and the willigness to climb hills and accelerate in any gear show just how broad the power is . I would say the power is very usable , and she sounds great to boot
Concerned that the riding position would be too extreme ( I am a dirt bike guy) I was researching bar risers etc- but the bike fits me like a glove and so far I may just do the buell pegs , as I have a little trouble getting my stubby legs up onto the pegs- but once settled in I'm pretty comfortable.
I keep finding excuses to ride her somewhere. Smitten is a great word.
I have heard said the best indication of just how desireable a motorcycle can be, is how many times you look back after you park her . I'm doing a lot of that .
Not to mention that having found a a forum with articulate and experienced members is essential to navigating all the issues that crop up.
So , get one and you will never regret it - my only regret is that i had to wait 9 years to get my 2000 !
Oh and I like the silver best too
Good luck and happy hunting
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JUst purchased a 2000 V11 Sport and am interested in the following items, that you or someone you know may have or know where to get -thanks in advance
1. I am missing the cover over the passenger area of the seat - my bike is silver , but i have CF cans so CF is an option as well as charcoal
2. My bike has some road rash so I would consider Tank, Tailsection, Fender (basically the painted bits) in any color - I like the silver I have , and the green , and the champagne, and could mix and match as well. I may just take the parts I have and have them repainted but if anyone is parting a v11 that would be of interest
3. If there was/is a centerstand that fits this model I would like to have one
4. My bike has black valve covers- I think stock was silver , and I prefer it , so of anyone has silver ones for sale, or maybe wants to trade for black ? See pics for what I have, they look new
5. Cylinder head guards ( I am missing one, so I guess i need a set ). I have attached a picture of the right side , just in case someone recognizes the style and knows where i can find a left side to match
Many thanks, feel free to reply here or by PM/email -all suggestions welcomed
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You need to call Joe Eish in Salineville,Oh. 330-738-3944
Thank you , the guy is wonderful to deal with
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Hi Scott, as Ratchet mentions, cold water on a hot engine could cause metal warping or cracking in extreme cases. I've actually seen it happen with cast iron engines, never aluminium, but who knows. I must admit I did the same thing 3 yrs ago in the middle of nowhere [Midway, B.C.], totally pissed at the bike, didn't care if I cracked the engine, found a hose at a gas station, sprayed it up on the external pump & lines, fired right up.
The term 'burping' I used when I first started poking around with the bike on the side of the road one hot August afternoon with my buddies watching. A slotted screwdriver is enough to loosen the hose clamp coming off the bottom of the petcock. You may have to pull the line right off to release, but I just kind of spun the hose on the petcock orfice, that was enough to start releasing pressure, mostly atomized fuel [air] but there may be some liquid gasoline spit out as well, so be carefull where it lands if the engine is hot, if you know what I mean.
Check with Greg Field or Pete Roper on this forum, but I'm pretty sure that 1999, 2000. and 2001 V11's had the electric petcock, after that, manual petcocks were exclusively used. Why they went electric I'd like to know, it was stupid fucking idea. The manual petcock is quite inexpensive, I rode down from Vancouver to Moto International in Seattle one day to get one, Greg had them in stock. I'd get rid of the electric one for other reasons besides the vapour entrapement issue. The wires at the bottom of it are not very big, and vibration damage can cause the fuel delivery to stop, yet you'll never see the wire broken inside the isloator, exactly what happened to me, twice, both covered by warranty in the early 2000's. My local dealer, British Italian in Vancouver, would not upgrade [the manual one's actually cheaper] to the manual, so I had to play the game Moto Guzzi used to play during the Aprilia years.
Steve
Thanks for the great advice- yes I too was concernd about the water on a hot engine thing, so I let it cool down and then I used a fine mist , not a direct flow.
Teh dealer sugested (Joe) is wonderful and a petcock is on its way to me.
Wow I love this bike. What a hoot
Thanks again for the help.
Next on the list is valve adjustment and mixture/TPS stuff , I been reading lol /.
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Oh and does anyone have thepart # fort the manual petcock- my local dealer wasnt able to figure it out - maybe someone can direct me to a parts vendor that is prefrerred
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I have much experience with this issue, and had exactly the symptoms you have. Here's what's happening. Collective hot starts have built up the vapourized gas to a volume big enough that the fuel pump is now cavitating in 'air'. Short term but instant fix, you will have to "burp" the pressurized vapour [pressurized because the electric fuel pump your bike has shuts closed the moment you turn the ignition off] where the fuel line meets the bottom of the fuel petcock. It will hiss at you even when the thing is turned off. Once hissing and possible gurgling of fuel/vapour stops, your good to go for perhaps 10-20 hot starts where the problems will start again.
As Greg mentioned about the manual petcock, what I'm sure happens is, installing a manual petcock eliminates the collection of vapourized gas, any super heated gas which chooses to vapourize inside the fuel line right near the inside left cylinder simply vapourizes and bubbles up through the still open manual petcock up into the fuel tank harmlessly. The electric one traps this.
You could go a step further to eliminate this issue, by getting a product called 'Firesleeve', a fuel line insulator used primarily in aircraft, which will vastly reduce the heat issue inside that area behind the left cylinder.
Steve
Thanks Steve for the analysis. Hwo do you burp the line ? Do you carry a tool to be able to take the line loose ? As a test , the other day I spritzed the engine down with water when it was in a no- start conidtion, and it fired right up. I even can tell the difference now when the pump runs in air vs in fuel.
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Had the same problem with my V11 in hot weather. This is how I fixed it. Pulled the tank off after carefully disconnecting all the wireing.Losened off the external fuel pump and slid it through the clamp to give a little more freeplay to the fuel line. Disconnected the pet cock fuel line and rerouted away from the left cylinder barrel cooling fins which it was touching. I wrapped a heat resistant sticky backed silver foil tape like is used on exhaust down pipes around the fuel pump and fuel line from the pet cock. After rerouting I managed a gap of around 30mm from the cooling fins to the side of the fuel line. This gap plus the tape has stopped the fuel pump from cavitating due to the petrol in the line boiling to gas under the vacum caused by the pump. Hope this has helped. NB
have a new to me 2000 V11, and I am having similar problems- after shutting down ,the engine heat soaks and it may or may not start , and if it does start it seems to run out of fuel after a few seconds. ( it has been 90+ degrees F lately) Letting the engine cool about 45 minutes is required before it will start and stay running.
I would never have considered the electric petcock could be non-functional but still sucked open by the pump- until I read it here - and I assume the theory is that cavitation in the pump due to boiling fuel in the lines prevents the malfunctioning petcock from being opened by the pump ? So both problems need to be solved- manual petcock and relocated/insulated lines.
Anyone ever take pictures of the prefered line routing ? Can the elecric petcock be modified in some way to stay open ?
May thanks for this forum ( my first post with words) I finally have the bike i have lusted for after 9 years ( 2000 V11 Sport) and initial feelings are that I am going to be very very VERY happy.
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Q: Who “Needs” a Steering Damper?
in Technical Topics
Posted
Om a serious note
If I am coasting ( lets say decelerating because i am in gear ) at 30-50 mph ( the only times I have tried this ) in a straight line , and I take both hands off the bars and place them on the gas cap , I notice a gentle oscillation in the bars- maybe 1/4-3/8 of an inch, - is this normal ?
The OEM damper is MIA on my bike , I purchased it that way.