NakedV
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Posts posted by NakedV
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Quick update. Picked up the cans, turned out to be Titanium. Fitted a treat. About 10 minutes saw them bolted up tight, perfect fit. Bike sounds really nice without making my ears bleed
Bike definately less restricted, no flat spots or hickups. Surprisingly she feels smoother which I didn't expect. Need to get out and do a plug chop at a few different speeds but all in all a good job. Cheers all. -
Use the links at the bottom of Belfastguzzis post for lots of pics and a good description of the replacement procedure.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2905&hl=
Cheers Tom. That's the one I was looking for.
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Hi All. Some time ago I read a thread with pictures that dealt with changing the dreaded gearbox pawl spring and the over size boss. I've not got a problem with my bike but want to read the method used with engine in the frame (be prepared and all that). Did a search last night but can't find it. Regards all. Mick.
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I've been considering that Redline Bike oil too. It's pricey though. I will probably try it out this spring.
Yeah, pretty pricey but sure as sh*t cheaper than new cams/followers. I've decided the V11 is a long term ride. Don't ask why, she's got something I didn't even know I was looking for. (Que the X files musik
). Just roll on the summer. I've got limits to explore . -
After much R&D the square wheel replacement is ready.
Designed by Italians in the traditional boot style.
Sadly the manufacturer is refusing to honour warrenty claims on the grounds that leaving the laces out of one in four of the boots in no way effects reliability.
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Had a 1200 shovel lowrider, mild tune, balanced, Loved it. 1340 sturgis, crap, bought back the 1200. back in love. finished on a wild 1650cc stroker pan head. mental. ground the chaincase away on both shovel heads making them go round corners, kick back 'n' cruise they're ok. Big V twin so got to be good. Never felt the nead to sport loads of labels, ride in a pack. 'bout same time had a 850 LM2 then a 1000s. loved em both. 20yrs on it's another Guzzi. Horses for courses, Also had several flirtations with Tritons, TriBSA's etc. For me the V11 is a factory version of the classic cafe racer. Film a bit OTT but what the hell? Each to his own. Mick.
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Greets, Mick
FWIW, I ran nothing but Castrol GTX (and Castrol before there was GTX, as I recall) in an A65 BSA for 25 years without any oil related problems of any kind. Though this has not been true since the mid-'80's, IMHO, it was one of the best available oil choices for that motor prior to then. Like the V11, an A65 is a plain bearing motor, and likewise being air-cooled and pushrod operated by flat tappets, it has fundamental similarities with respect to oil requirements. During the years I rode my A65, Castrol and most other dino oils offered more than adequate protection for cams and tappets of flat-tappet pushrod motors, primarily due to the (then) common use of ZDDP as an additive.
ZDDP was progressively phased out (and/or "phased down") by the oil mfgr's in response to Enviro-Nazi mandates for catalytic converters, which had a tendency to go toes-up early from the ZDDP in the oil. At the same time, flat-tappet motors were by then all but obsolete, losing ground to "modern" pushrod motors with roller lifters and the trend toward OHC motors, which don't require the same level of protection afforded by ZDDP. Eventually, this regulatory “dumbing-down” of "good" additives got to the point where GTX, and for the most part, every other oil became inadequate -- and a destructive danger -- to cams and tappets in all flat-tappet pushrod motors -- including the V11.
Today, the critical consideration on engine oil for "obsolete" flat-tappet pushrod motors, including the V11, is still ZDDP content. V11 Guzzis need either high ZDDP oil, or a ZDDP additive (available separately) for optimum protection. IIRC, ZDDP content of "Big Twin" specific oil (readily available anywhere) is usually somewhere around double that of nearly all of today's automotive oils. Some have triple and quad relative concentrations.
There’s a very good article on this in Hot Rod Magazine here:
Cheers Matey. as high zinc levels appear to be a def' bonus for Guzzi oil what do you think of this?
Product Description and Technical Details
Red Line Oils - About Redline 20W50 Motorcyle Oil (20w-50)
Red Line 20W50 motorcycle oil is an ester based fully synthetic 20w-50 oil for motorcycles.
The 20w-50 viscosity is designed for the latest Big-Twin motorcycle engines that specify 20W50 motor oil, including Evos ('84-up) and V-Rod.
About the Red Line 4-stroke motorcycle oil range
As part of Red Line’s all-new Powersports line, these High Peformance Motorcycle Oils are fully-synthetic formulas specifically created for the high demands of the latest high-revving four-strokes motocross bikes and ATVs, Sportbikes, and V-Twins. Available in popular viscosities of 10W40, 20W50, and 20W60, these ester-based products contain the anti-wear chemistry demanded by mechanics and enthusiasts.
The levels of zinc and phosphorus blended into these lubricants are among the highest in the industry and combine well with Red Line’s chemistry, designed to seal piston rings for more power, fight fuel dilution, extend drain interval and provide stronger film strength over a range of temperature. This oil also features lower levels of friction modifiers for superior wet clutch operation. Excellent thermal stability, oxidation resistance, cleanliness, and ability to lubricate hot metal make Red Line High Performance Motor Oil a superior lubricant. Recommended for JASO MB, API SJ, SG, & SH.
Red Line 20W50 Motorcyle Oil is also known as:
•Redline 20w50
•Redline 20w-50
•Redline Motorcycle Oil
•Redline Motorbike Oil
Regards, mike.
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I have a pair of mistrals just bolted them straight on no problems or flatspots.
Nice one, that's exactly what I wanted to hear. Cheers. Mick.
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They seem to be for a twin cylinder bike.
Glad we got that sorted
should have asked if anyone knew model number of pipes 
Idea is I can find out what changes I'll need to make rather than just "slap em on" and be pissed off. -
Both Helen and I have these on our V11s- look and sound great!
Cheers Guzzirider. Was any re-mapping required? Bike runs really well on stock pipes with no hesitation/flat spots. I was concerned about upseting a really sweet running machine. Mick.
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Just in process of buying these for my 2001 V11. Any ideas as to model and what effect they will have on performance/sound etc. Thet are not stamped. Cheers all.
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ok done now! 10 min job turns into 3hours+!eventually took the back off- used needle nose pliars to hold the insert then patched up with 'magic putty',my advice DO NOT try to replace this piece! mask off and repray inplace!its got to be easier!!!!!!!
Duly noted. I've a bit of paint to touch up myself around the clocks.
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I have been running 15w-50 and 20w-50 last 30.000km and engine suffered no harm (this proved to be true after tearing the engine apart during this winter).
Was that a straight mineral oil, or a semi/fully synthetic? Mick.
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Gawd, I hope I don't regret asking this
I've seen a couple of posts re' modern synthetic oils not really being suitable for pushrod engines. I used to run BSA A65's years ago and running modern (then) oil such as Castrol GTX as advised by the Haynes manual was a guarenteed way to detonate an engine. It goes without saying that the Guzzi is a more advanced motor than the old plain bush, bearing BSA. I was thinking of running my 2001 V11 sport on a semi synthetic 10w50 or a 15w40. Changed at 6k miles along with filters etc, any thoughts. Cheers all. Mick. -
Fraid it don't do much for me, The V11 Naked is a stunner when standard. The seat they've put on is to replace one of the sexiest arses ever to appear on a motorcycle. The front mudguard looks like a chuck together and the chrome pipes don't suit either. Must try harder I'm afraid. Just my opinion though, there will be plenty who think it's the dogs bollocks I guess. Mick.
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Hi All. I'm looking for a tank cover for my 2002 model V11 Naked as I'm looking to get a bit of touring in this year. Not bothered if there is a bag with it or not at this stage as can source later. Anyone got one they don'y use that they'd like to swop for some beer tokens??????
Mick. (pm me with details) -
Did the bulb, and relay set up. It's definately better, but still sucks compared to my previous bikes. I think I don't like the shape of the reflector, it seems to push the light up too much. Rode my Lemans naked for a few days, and just started looking at possibilities for a "summer " look. We'll see...
Bloody Hell mate. If I tried riding my bike with nowt on I'd freeze me bits off, -7 and 5 inches of snow here!
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Could try these; http://quillexhausts.com/
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From what I'm reading. It appears this is the same bunch that started the "Global Warming" Conspiracy...
Nor me, In fact its friggin cold 'n' wet where I am, could do with some global warming so I could get the bike out
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Those reverse megs would be unique. They are a bit narrow and polished for the V11's muscular lines though.
I'm a fan of the carbon cans, but then again I'm biased.
It's the highly polished finish that puts me off if I'm honest. The quills come with an optional set of carbon end caps that will compliment the bike. Here abouts there should be a picture of a Kwacker fitted with the can I'd like to put on the V11.
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Your mate obviously needs help. To check for stability try this simple test: Construct a ramp sloping down towards the shed door. Place your mate at the top of the ramp & release him with a slight push in the direction of the door. Check that he tracks straight & true.
Curing this sort of instability could simply be changing to a different different pair of sandals, but sometimes the problem lies deeper & it is necessary to place the "mate" in a rehabilitation unit for evaluation.
A good V11 with correctly adjusted suspension should be totally stable whilst firmly held vertical at a standstill. Obviously as speed increases stability may become an issue, but the problem is usually down to user input.
I hope this helps.
KB
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Hi Rhip. When cold I fully open the enrichment lever, no throttle at all, bike fires up at once and ticks over at about 1100 rpm for about 20 sec's before revs begin to climb, as they climb I decrease the amount of cold start lever to keep her around 1100rpm. (I'm not keen on reving a cold engine). I had real trouble getting smooth changes in lower gears till I started feeding the clutch in rather than just dumping it between changes, (Not excessively so). Guess it may lead to slightly quicker wear on the clutch but a hell of a lot kinder to G/box and drive train I reckon. Mick.
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My mate has a mate that has a mate that has a red framed V11 with no steering damper which never weaves at top speed, but has been known to develope a nasty tank slapper whilst being pushed into the shed, can anyone tell me if there is any history of instability with this model????????????????????????
INCOMINGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Everything in the manual for a 12k service, paint the bevel box, New cans, though the jury is still out between these from OS pipes and a set of carbon cans from Quill.
A simple method for Idle speed adjustment?
in Technical Topics
Posted
Hi All. Fitted the Mistrals over the W/end and put 170 miles on the bike. several plug checks later and all looks pretty good. Bike running very nice with no flat spots and strangely feels a little smoother. (It's a smooth bike anyway). My only niggle is that the idle speed has come up a little to about 12-1300 rpm. Is there a simple way to drop the revs at idle without upsetting the entire set up?