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JBastida

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Posts posted by JBastida

  1. He changed the rear wheel ? Do you mean he installed a different wheel ?

    Sorry Carl.

    I mean, rear tire. He changed rear tire.

     

    The inner spacer that goes between the splines and rear drive is missing. Easy thing to drop.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks for your answer.

    I asume you talk about "Shim F"?  as it is stated in manual

    Is this the only choice for this  problem? I ask this becouse mechanic says that he is sure he put in place this spacer.

    Could you place help me to identify this spacer in exploded diagrams?

    Thank you in advance, and sorry for so many questions.

  2. Hi guys!
    I have a problem that appeared when reasembling rear wheel by my mechanic.
    He changed rear wheel and brake pads. And, after reassembling then, rear wheel is braked permanently by inner pad. So it seems that rear wheel is displaced toward right hand. Figure number 1 is a simple scheme of the problem.
    So, it looks like something is missing in the right side of rear wheel.  Asked the mechanic about right spacer, he told me that he edientify it and he is sure he put it in place.
    According to mechanic, displacement looks very very small. But enough for braking rear wheel with brand new pads.
    I post too a couple of pics about exploded diagrams to make easyer your commentaries(Fiures number 2 and 3), and my understanding. And what is stated in official manual (Figure number 4).

    Thanks in advance!
    Best regards.
    Figure nº 1
    13ac233cf6b3d963582ec3d39e9a8afao.jpg

    Figure number 2

    e1ce9780dab421a5f11ed59c9a5ac9d8o.jpg

     

    Figure number 3

    cafdf8569dceaa46b7bbc5965bd7a57ao.jpg

     

    Figure number 4

    c9ce67ce8e78f9d0ab728b3803ef5e91o.jpg

     

  3. Zooter, this is as it looks like from outside.
    I'm sorry photographs are not very good quality.
    I could realize that mechanic didn’t mill a flat. Clutch cover outside looks very flat at this point.
    I also realized he put a washer.

    Best regards!

     

    21bj914.jpg213oeba.jpg

  4. As asked by Zooter, I post here my answer to his questions.

     

     

    veaxw4.jpg

    Already done!
    I've paid a visit to the mechanic.
    Concerning your questions these are the answers:
    He drilled a hole in clutch cover. Put a screw on it (number 1), sealed it with some product and put the first nut (number 2).
    After that, he put another nut (number 3), the end of the spring (number 4), and another nut (number 5).
    Pawl arm was not modified. As I told you, spring end is simply hooked in pawl arm (number 7). Spring is always in tension. Notice that there are some irregularities in spring (number 6). This is the way the mechanic adjusted the proper length and strength of the spring.
    He didn’t use any loctitte. He just used a product to seal the hole properly.

    I hope this wil be helpfull
    Best regards, and good luck

  5. I place here the answer to your mesage, Zooter:

     

    Hi guys!

     

    I didn't forget to inform you about the fix lasting. But I had a child two years ago, so I hardly ride my bike nowadays  :(

     

    The fix work out well so far. My bike has only 37.500 km today. It means 1.500 km left to 39.000 km, when it was supposed the pring would broke again. (it broke first time at 13.000 km, and second time at 26.000 km)

     

    Best Regards

  6. I have a little problem when trying to insert images:

    I click "image" icon in order to paste there the link, but forum turns grey and que window where you should paste the link doesn't appears.

     

    Aniway, everthing goes great with this new software. Specially when using my mobile phone.

     

    Thankyou very much indeed.

  7. hello all -

     

    i have a 2004 ballabio that has been trouble-free since i purchased it used in 2009. coming up on 22k, it's been sitting a lot recently but performing just fine when i take it out, until yesterday...

     

    started fine, pulled away fine and then simply would not get out of 1st gear, either running & moving, standing still or with the engine off. last time i rode it (2 weeks ago?) it shifted without incident and nothing happened in the meantime other than it sitting in the corner of the garage.

     

    i rode it, in first, at 20mph, across town to my local garage (eurogeek in flagstaff, az) where the my mechanista also could not find anything obviously wrong; we looked at the owner's manual PDF together and he's planning on opening up the transmission to see what's what, but i thought i'd post here to see if anyone has any guidance that might save us a lot of time.

     

    any tips, suggestions, warnings or prayers welcome.

     

    thank you.

     

    I suggest you to see this topic:

    http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872

    And this is my experience:

    http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16930

     

    Wellcome to the pawl arm spring club (I think)

     

    Regards.

  8. The heavy spring will cause extra drag when returning to center after shifting though.

    :thumbsup:

    Though spring just move sidesway a few degrees, this should cause some extra drag when operating shift selector. And then will help pawl arm to return to its center position <_>

  9. ...Best fix so far is: go and get yourself a Greeny...

    So, anyone point to differences in this mechanism between Greenies & the later bikes? I never heard of a pre-02 breaking this spring.

    KB :sun:

     

    I've heard that Greenyes never reach to 13.000km of mileage, because they spent years in workshop waiting to be fixed, so they don't have problems with this spring :grin:

  10. My first impresions after 500 miles:

    I've to do some more effort to move shift selector.

    When I downshift or upshift I've to wait half second more for the last Clonck.

    It's a little bit easyer to find a false neutral

     

    I asume all these happens becouse spring tension is now higher than it was with the original spring, even though the mechanic put a lot of attention in setting spring tension.

     

    To sum up, shift is a little bit burly.

     

    We´ll see about longevity.....

     

    Best regards.

  11. It depends on how it looks from the outside and whether its hook will stay fixed and tight. To frickle a bit in the shop and then giving it a few thousand goes on the road are different things. Best fix so far is: go and get yourself a Greeny :)

     

    Hubert

     

     

    I agree with you... we will know it along the following thousnads miles... :race:

  12. The outcome.... (I hope so)

     

    I look like an idiot, but not as much as I use to do :rolleyes:

     

    Spring were broken. It was the correct one: reference 04238300.... but it broke again. :huh2:

    Pawl arm was the correct one too. As MOTO GUZZI states, from last 2003 V11s on, pawl arms are the correct ones (15mm of diameter), reference 01235130.... But spring broke again. :huh2:

    So, I asume spring are not properly made.

    Here the photograf of the broken spring next to the one I bought to fix it. You can see were the spirng broke this time. You can see too pawl arm. Is the one that comes mounted in the bike from the factory(15mm of diameter). My bike is fron 2004.

    v1eCL.jpg?1

     

    As it doesn´t seem to be a good idea to replace the spring again, so it will broke in 13.000 km, my very skilled and experienced craftsman Guzzi mechanic fixed it this way: He removed the V spring along pawl arm, and placed a spring 90º degrees from pawl arm.

    fUxl5.jpg?1

    sjwSV.jpg

     

    After the first kilometers everything seems to work great.

    I hope this will last longer :race:

     

    Best regards. :drink:

  13. Spare parts are already here. 40 days delivery period, not bad for Moto Guzzi :(

     

    Spring inside diameter (in milimeters): 16,85mm

    Spring reference 04238300

     

    MrKup.jpg

     

    Pawl arm diameter(in milimeters): 15mm

    Pawl arm reference 01235130

    eeldG.jpg

    jjKV6.jpg

     

    Next week I´ll post measures of the old pieces.

     

    Regards.

  14. By 2004, I should think the bike would have the correct pawl arm? Sorry I can't remember the various details now.

     

    According to the recall I posted above, problem was solved in 2003. So I've been checking serial number:

    According to the recall bikes affected are between KT111435 and KS112350. My serial number is ZGUKIB0104M112043. I don't understand very much these numbers, but if I compare the last six numbers, my serial number is among bikes affected in spite of it is from 2004. Isn't it? :unsure:

  15. JB, I just remembered when replying in another thread that the 'new' spring is made with a wider coil diameter to work on the incorrect pawl arm without binding. Therefore, in theory, the pawl arm should not matter – just fit a new spring.

     

    In practise, you will probably feel safer with the new 'big' spring and a pawl arm with the original 'small' spring boss.

     

    Whatever you do, make sure you look carefully at how the parts work together and measure the diameters.

    That's why I don't understand why this happend again. The dealer who change the spring last time, told me he placed a new (wider) spring, in an old pawl arm (as he didn't change pawl arm). That's why I will try to change everything this time, as MOTO GUZZI recomended in its recall.

    Anyway I'll check all pieces this time.

     

    To be continued...

  16. Hi guys, and sorry for my late reply.

    Belfastguzzi deductions are completely right :thumbsup:

    And Baldini is right too: may be this is not the most logical way to proceed, but I have to carry the bike far away to my mechanic so I try to optimize my tryp to the workshop. I know I run a risk, and we will not know it till we open the box, but I´m not worried as symptoms are exactly the sames.

    I was wayting for a new neutral shaft switch since four weeks ago too, :angry: so I hope to receive everything soon and change everithing at the same time.

     

    I'm waiting for MG spare parts, so, be patient...

     

    I hope not to look like an idiot in a few days. :D

     

    Best regards. And thankyou very much.

  17. Last time I trusted in a prestigious guzzi mechanic here in spain. So I didn't measure anithing, and he decided not to change pawl arm.

    This time I will check all pieces (old an new ones) and I will compare them, to post it here. May be we will reach to a useful conclusion.

    I've already ordered both pieces to Stein Dinse, but pawl arm are not in their stock, so we have to wait for MG delivery time (2-3weeks, may be more in august)

     

    Thanks guys!

    To be continued...

  18. I'll try to explain my thinking in a few words:

     

    Once throttles bodies are balanced, there are two throttle springs pushing towards idle screws. I asume it is better, in order to keep as long as possible the correct idle setup and balance, to counteract this pressure with two screws insted of one, as this way both screws distribute pressure, otherwise left idle screw holds up all pressure by itself? That is the only reason why I think it could be better this way. :huh2:

     

    Thanks a lot.

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