JBastida

Sorry Carl. I mean, rear tire. He changed rear tire. Thanks for your answer. I asume you talk about "Shim F"? as it is stated in manual Is this the only choice for this problem? I ask this becouse mechanic says that he is sure he put in place this spacer. Could you place help me to identify this spacer in exploded diagrams? Thank you in advance, and sorry for so many questions.

Hi guys! I have a problem that appeared when reasembling rear wheel by my mechanic. He changed rear wheel and brake pads. And, after reassembling then, rear wheel is braked permanently by inner pad. So it seems that rear wheel is displaced toward right hand. Figure number 1 is a simple scheme of the problem. So, it looks like something is missing in the right side of rear wheel. Asked the mechanic about right spacer, he told me that he edientify it and he is sure he put it in place. According to mechanic, displacement looks very very small. But enough for braking rear wheel with brand new pads. I post too a couple of pics about exploded diagrams to make easyer your commentaries(Fiures number 2 and 3), and my understanding. And what is stated in official manual (Figure number 4). Thanks in advance! Best regards. Figure nº 1 Figure number 2 Figure number 3 Figure number 4

That's why you are the Administrator?

Zooter, this is as it looks like from outside. I'm sorry photographs are not very good quality. I could realize that mechanic didn’t mill a flat. Clutch cover outside looks very flat at this point. I also realized he put a washer. Best regards!

As asked by Zooter, I post here my answer to his questions. Already done! I've paid a visit to the mechanic. Concerning your questions these are the answers: He drilled a hole in clutch cover. Put a screw on it (number 1), sealed it with some product and put the first nut (number 2). After that, he put another nut (number 3), the end of the spring (number 4), and another nut (number 5). Pawl arm was not modified. As I told you, spring end is simply hooked in pawl arm (number 7). Spring is always in tension. Notice that there are some irregularities in spring (number 6). This is the way the mechanic adjusted the proper length and strength of the spring. He didn’t use any loctitte. He just used a product to seal the hole properly. I hope this wil be helpfull Best regards, and good luck

Hi guys! 38.800 km nowadays. I know it is not a lot No problems so far. Best regards

I place here the answer to your mesage, Zooter: Hi guys! I didn't forget to inform you about the fix lasting. But I had a child two years ago, so I hardly ride my bike nowadays The fix work out well so far. My bike has only 37.500 km today. It means 1.500 km left to 39.000 km, when it was supposed the pring would broke again. (it broke first time at 13.000 km, and second time at 26.000 km) Best Regards

I suggest you to see this topic: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872 And this is my experience: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16930 Wellcome to the pawl arm spring club (I think) Regards.

Though spring just move sidesway a few degrees, this should cause some extra drag when operating shift selector. And then will help pawl arm to return to its center position

Today's report: 100 miles of twisty roads in "sport mode" on. Not a single false neutral, nor burly shift. I would say whether shift feeling is improving.............. or I'm getting used to it

So, anyone point to differences in this mechanism between Greenies & the later bikes? I never heard of a pre-02 breaking this spring. KB I've heard that Greenyes never reach to 13.000km of mileage, because they spent years in workshop waiting to be fixed, so they don't have problems with this spring

My first impresions after 500 miles: I've to do some more effort to move shift selector. When I downshift or upshift I've to wait half second more for the last Clonck. It's a little bit easyer to find a false neutral I asume all these happens becouse spring tension is now higher than it was with the original spring, even though the mechanic put a lot of attention in setting spring tension. To sum up, shift is a little bit burly. We´ll see about longevity..... Best regards.

I agree with you... we will know it along the following thousnads miles...

The outcome.... (I hope so) I look like an idiot, but not as much as I use to do Spring were broken. It was the correct one: reference 04238300.... but it broke again. Pawl arm was the correct one too. As MOTO GUZZI states, from last 2003 V11s on, pawl arms are the correct ones (15mm of diameter), reference 01235130.... But spring broke again. So, I asume spring are not properly made. Here the photograf of the broken spring next to the one I bought to fix it. You can see were the spirng broke this time. You can see too pawl arm. Is the one that comes mounted in the bike from the factory(15mm of diameter). My bike is fron 2004. As it doesn´t seem to be a good idea to replace the spring again, so it will broke in 13.000 km, my very skilled and experienced craftsman Guzzi mechanic fixed it this way: He removed the V spring along pawl arm, and placed a spring 90º degrees from pawl arm. After the first kilometers everything seems to work great. I hope this will last longer Best regards.

Spare parts are already here. 40 days delivery period, not bad for Moto Guzzi Spring inside diameter (in milimeters): 16,85mm Spring reference 04238300 Pawl arm diameter(in milimeters): 15mm Pawl arm reference 01235130 Next week I´ll post measures of the old pieces. Regards.

According to the recall I posted above, problem was solved in 2003. So I've been checking serial number: According to the recall bikes affected are between KT111435 and KS112350. My serial number is ZGUKIB0104M112043. I don't understand very much these numbers, but if I compare the last six numbers, my serial number is among bikes affected in spite of it is from 2004. Isn't it?

That's why I don't understand why this happend again. The dealer who change the spring last time, told me he placed a new (wider) spring, in an old pawl arm (as he didn't change pawl arm). That's why I will try to change everything this time, as MOTO GUZZI recomended in its recall. Anyway I'll check all pieces this time. To be continued...

Hi guys, and sorry for my late reply. Belfastguzzi deductions are completely right And Baldini is right too: may be this is not the most logical way to proceed, but I have to carry the bike far away to my mechanic so I try to optimize my tryp to the workshop. I know I run a risk, and we will not know it till we open the box, but I´m not worried as symptoms are exactly the sames. I was wayting for a new neutral shaft switch since four weeks ago too, so I hope to receive everything soon and change everithing at the same time. I'm waiting for MG spare parts, so, be patient... I hope not to look like an idiot in a few days. Best regards. And thankyou very much.

Last time I trusted in a prestigious guzzi mechanic here in spain. So I didn't measure anithing, and he decided not to change pawl arm. This time I will check all pieces (old an new ones) and I will compare them, to post it here. May be we will reach to a useful conclusion. I've already ordered both pieces to Stein Dinse, but pawl arm are not in their stock, so we have to wait for MG delivery time (2-3weeks, may be more in august) Thanks guys! To be continued...

The spring is broken again The first one broke at 13.000km, the second one al 26.000km This time I'll replace Pawl Arm an spring. I wish it will last longer

Nipples on men? just in case? what? We'll have to ask to italian ingeneers. I supose it is a far away understanding from our poor kwnolege.

I'll try to explain my thinking in a few words: Once throttles bodies are balanced, there are two throttle springs pushing towards idle screws. I asume it is better, in order to keep as long as possible the correct idle setup and balance, to counteract this pressure with two screws insted of one, as this way both screws distribute pressure, otherwise left idle screw holds up all pressure by itself? That is the only reason why I think it could be better this way. Thanks a lot.

Thankyou very much Tom! You are very clear. I'll try to screw it until it touches the throttle using the thinest feeler gauge, as both idle screws were touching the throttle boddies until now. Best regards.

Another question concerning the TPS Set up an Throttle Balance Tuning tutorial: At the begining of the procedure is writen that right throttle idle screw should be backed off. After that all actions are performed with left throttle idle screw, and nothing else is writen concerning right throttle idle screw. What should be done with it at the end of the procedure? I asume backed off is not its final position.... so.... should I screw it in till it contact with the piece it has just in front. This way both idle screws would be exactly in the same position, holding up the springs in idle position (when throttle conpletely closed) Thanks in advance, and sorry for my english. Best regads. Martin