javahouse

Hi Guys I have a 2006 Ballabio, and just fitted a new speedo. The new speedo has a male thread on the reset. Does anyone know whether the knobs are available as spares, or does anyone know the thread? Thanks Rob

Well... the V11's been languishing at the back of the garage waiting for some TLC for long enough. Had a go at it last week, and just been out for a fault-free 60-mile test - so it's fingers crossed I've got it fixed at last. And if I'm right, then never would I have expected a big lazy twin like a guzzi to be so sensitive to air leaks in the inlet. All I've done is take throttle bodies off. Strip and re-build with new spindle seals and centred the butterflies. I used the Yamaha seals. Easy enough job. Reset the TPS on the fly afterwards at 520mV at 1100rpm with the air screws open 1/2 turn each. Balanced everything up and it's great. Just thought I'd best tie up the loose end because it's good feedback if anyone else is struggling. Rob

Thanks, and apologies for late response - I went on hollidays. I read the article you wrote and sounds straightforward. I will order the parts and try it. Many thanks Rob

Hi Apologies if this has been done already, but are the bottom seals on the throttle spindle available and easy to swap. I've definitely got a small leak there, and seeing as it's still not running 100% I thought I'd sort it out. Also, is there a exploded drawing anywhere? the one in the parts book doesn't appear to show or list them. Thanks Rob

Well, it's been off the road for three weeks, so desperate tames and all that... I've ordered a new TPS, and if that isn't the culprit it's going to Twiggers in the back of a van. I love working on bikes, but I'm just not getting any clues with the Fi, and no-one locally is any expert. I could change several sensors before I hit it right. Expensive in monetary terms and time - as the summer ticks away. Thank God I have a 1000S to fall back on. Rob

Hi No, I read about those, not on mine though. There is a small inlet leak - seems equal both side and on the btm of the butterfly spindle. However, it was fine three weeks ago so I think I'm after something - maybe a sensor going out as richening the tps temporarily cured it. Now it's back. Can't ride it at the mo, too bad. Am I right in thinking then that you can't adjust CO on my ECU? ...also, what would be the effect of a bad air temp sensor. Mine checks OK (3 Ohm), but seems to run the same with or without it connected? Rob

Hi Got a Lambda sensor, but no Cat. Also got carbon cans? Is that a problem? As I say, this has just developed, I've had the bike 6-months. See photos Rob

Just been discussing this and the concensus was that you're wasting your time unless you either go for a raz and immediately test the CO or put a big fan on it. The mechanic reckoned that on air cooled engines, if you allow them to idle before testing the CO, the piston crowns expand and reduce the CO almost immediately. He reckoned 2.5? Don't know what the distilled wisdom of the forum is though Cheers Rob

Is it worth me pointing out that it has been fine for the last 2,000 miles and this fault has only just developed. I'll enquire about the eliminator though, there's a dynojet dealer local. Thanks Rob

There was a sticker over all of the original label, but it was paper and appeared not to have anything written on it. I was curious to see what was underneath; so I guess it may have been modified? Rob

Hi Problem re-appeared on the Ballabio. The ECU is Is this correct? Thanks Rob

Sure. I know it sounds like that. I put new bushes in the X-over and they're sealed OK. This isn't the odd annoying bang on over-run though, it's missing and jumping to the extent it's unrideable. Thought I'd got it fixed but it made a return yesterday. Cheers rOB

Went out for 10 miles yesterday and everything was wonderful. 20 miles this morning and it was just starting to play up toward the end. Just had to come 20 miles back and it's now shockingly bad again. Backfiring/popping/misfiring/kangarooing, and from all I could tell it was getting worse and worse till it got home. The last journey the degree of fault was immediately apparent and seemed to start from where it had finished on the previous journey. Back to the drawing board. Something's going out of range. Ideas?? Cheers Rob

Thanks for the feedback. I think I will (in time) go for the cut and shut solution as the headers are stainless anyway. Cheers Rob

I totally agree with you. Can I connect to the ECU with my laptop? Is there freeware (or software at least) to do so? and can you source the interface leads? Ta Rob