thumper
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Posts posted by thumper
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If a Ducati rocker looked like that they would be recromed or replaced. Metal to untreated metal will wear quickly. I know the valve setup is very different between the bikes But it does seem odd that now the goose has somthing in common with the duck, FLAKING ROCKERS. I have a 2000 996 and had to have 4 rockers recromed.If others have just cleaned them up and reused please chime in and let us know how long they have gone and do the valves need more frequent adjustments.
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That rocker looks a lot like a Ducati 996 rocker that did and does have flaking problems. They are crome plated on the wear pads.
EMS will grind and replate a Ducati rocker they may do a Guzzi as well. Loose valve clearances is one of the main causes for the Ducati wear, I am wondering if all of us going to the looser world spec. on the valve adjustments this is the reason we are seeing a lot more tapet, rocker and came wear. Just a observation. What valve clearances were you running?
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That should be enough time to charge a good battery. Did you check the volts at the battery with the bike off,
warm idle and @ 5000 rpm? If I remember it needs to be 14.2V approx. at the 4-5000 rpm.
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Dont know the year of your bike. Fuel pump in tank or out?
May just need to have the fittings tightned or new fuel lines.
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Small metal cup (button) the push rod sets in.
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Yes I did remove the swing arm. The job is not that difficult just get the new push rod seals and dont forget the button when you reassemble. Take your time and be sure of the torque settings.
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I did the clutch on my 2000 V11 a few years back. Did the crabbing of the frame,to pull the trans out the back
take the porkchop off, I think the problem was with the right side. Do not mess with the swing arm adjusting
lock nut. That way when you put it back together it will be the same as it was.
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I put the vortex clip ons on my 2000 v11 think it is 53mm. My forks are the marzochi (sp).
The compression and rebound on seperate legs. Works and looks good.
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Put the nut back on and try a few LIGHT taps with a hammer.
If you wack it like driving a nail damage will be caused.
Good luck
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My bearings went at 12,000 on the left side rearwheel. From the looks of the bearings, water had got in and did them in. I think it is when the bike is washed then leaned on the side stand the rust and evidence of water was on the left side.Check ebay you may beable to find a shop stand for the bike, they work fine.
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I had the same problem a few years ago and it was the clutch. The friction plate rivets had let go.
Required to pull the trans out and replace the clutch.
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One of mine, on the pork chop is lost
Is it possible to get a replacement? And where?
Thanks
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I had the same leaking battery problem, the voltage regulator was bad. It was sending 17 volts to the battery all the time
and cooked it. New regulator and battery all is fine
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docc, your first post stated 88.5 housing side I thaught that was the correct way to
torque the bolt.I replaced the wheel bearings @ 15,000 miles I think the left bearing
was the one that went bad all rusted. Looks to me if bike is put away wet on the kick stand
the water will go to that side and ruin the bearing.
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Thanks, thats the info. I was looking for.Set per Docc 88 rear housing side (allen on torque wrench) 70 front.
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Hi, I have searched cant find the answer,the front and rear axle bolt torque spec. is 88 foot lbs?
If its not please post the correct settings.Just put on a new set of pilots and that has been the best
suspension upgrade done to the bike so far.
Wear on tappet and rocker
in Technical Topics
Posted
The shims come in different sizes that is how the valves are adjusted and I think it is the opening shims you will need.
Each valve on a duck has a opening and a closing shim.