swortsoul

The bike is no longer for sale. Thanks Tim

Someone replied on guzzitech. They also gave me this link, which is interesting. http://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/modern-no-start-issue-solution.4908/ Bike is home. Just went back after 1.5 hr, and it fired up. Odd, but will look into that thread a bit more.

I'm going to go back and jump it from my car when my girlfriend gets home, but want to be sure I'm not missing anything stupid. I rode home from work and stopped at the store. Got my stuff, then the bike wouldn't start when leaving. Engine kill switch is in running position. Light comes on. Gauges sweep. I think I hear the fuel pump. Hit the starter, and don't really get anything. Maybe a light click, but not much. I checked the fuses. Bike was in neutral and I put the side stand up, and down a few times in case the switch was sticking. The battery reads 11.8V with the ignition on. I think that's low for starting, right? So will a jump get me home? Appreciate any quick responses, or any at all really. Thanks Tim PS I really just think it's mad at me selling the V11 yesterday...

The speedo is fixed. I taped the outer cable like you said. Replaced the angle drive. Pulled the cable out, cleaned it, then lubed it and put everything together. It's good to have a speed and odometer again.

I should give an update for this. Definitely wasn't pinging. I use premium as well. Unfortunately, I can't find any decent fuel without 10%+ ethanol. I expect my tank to look like a shriveled raisin someday... So I dropped by Moto International once to have Micha take a listen. Of course I don't hear the sound then, and neither did he. He said the valves could use adjusting. A couple weeks later, still no valve adjustment, it is getting louder. So last night I run back by MI, Micha listens, valves definitely need adjustment. So that's what it sounds like... Yes, I'm used to riding a Honda and KTM. Had one of those bikes sounded like that, I would've pulled over and shot the thing to put it out of it's misery. Last night I put bike on stand, pull off one valve cover, put in high gear, pull both spark plugs, turn wheel to find TDC. I expect wheel to move freely since there should be no compressions with plugs pulled. It definitely doesn't spin freely. Takes a bit of effort every time a piston moves (valves open/close etc). Is that normal? Probably is, but I've just had one friend tell me they had very little resistance (on their 4 cyl sewing machine...). Man the stupid questions that come up with the first time doing this... Thanks

It's there when it's stationary as well. I'm going to pick up a bolt to replace the missing one. Whenever I do something like thus, I normally take the whole thing off, clean/lube it, and reinstall. I just don't know what's behind the cover and if I need to worry about anything there. If it doesn't fix the rattle, I'll be back. I find it odd that I only hear it from 3k - 5k or so. The alternator is behind the alternator cover. Nothing to worry about there. 3-5k must just be the range where it vibes the way the loose thing likes to be shaken. Frequencies and all. Er something. Is it really a rattle or more of a buzz? Regardless, it's ALWAYS a good idea with these bikes to go around checking hardware. Don't be afraid of locktite, either. I would say a metallic rattle. My first though was a screw being loose. Ya, I just haven't got to checking all the bolts yet. It's still new to me. That is tonight's project. Well this is better than my KTM is treating me. It stalls every time I pull in the clutch. I'm being told to start the bike and let it idle for 15 minutes and something magic happens in the ECU. Give me a loose screw any day.

It's there when it's stationary as well. I'm going to pick up a bolt to replace the missing one. Whenever I do something like thus, I normally take the whole thing off, clean/lube it, and reinstall. I just don't know what's behind the cover and if I need to worry about anything there. If it doesn't fix the rattle, I'll be back. I find it odd that I only hear it from 3k - 5k or so.

So my 2002 Lemans started to rattle, most pronounced around 3k rpm. I had just replaced the angle drive for the speedo, removed the speedo cable, cleaned it, lubed it, and re-installed it. I couldn't figure out how that would make a rattling sound. Well, it didn't. I hate when something else new happens when I'm test riding my last issue. For the record, the new angle drive fixed my speedo issue. Thanks for all who helped. Now the rattle. It sounded like it was coming from the front of the bike. After a while, I noticed a missing bolt from the alternator cover. I'm assuming this is the source. I was just going to take it off, clean it up, and put it back. Is there anything I should worry about or know? Next step is to check and tighten all external bolts. Thanks Tim

So I just took off the angle drive again. This time, it would spin freely for a bit, but then there was a lot of friction at times. It felt about the same attached to the cable. I think I'm just going to replace both the angle drive and the cable. Those little drives are not cheap...

I guess not. What's the proper way to install that? Should the pin be in the angle drive and then the drive screwed on? Or the pin in the transmission first? Sounds like from your reply that it should be in the angle drive.

I see that it's fairly common on these bikes (2002 Le Mans) to have the speedo stop working. The day after I got my bike, mine stopped. The previous owner gave me another angle drive. It didn't work as well. Today, the speedo started working for 13.5 miles, then quit again. This is a Veglia speedo. When it was working, the speedo, the odometer and the trip meter all worked. I've tried the following: 1. Pulled out angle drive, made sure that pin was in the transmission, rolled bike, look at the pin. It spins, so I'm hoping the transmission gear or whatever is there is ok. 2. Put the pin in the angle drive, spun it by hand. It spun on the other end. 3. Spun the side of the cable that plugs into the angle drive. The speedo needle moved, which made me think the cable and speedo itself were ok. I did notice the rubber jacket of the speedo cable was split. See the picture to see what I'm talking about. It is a bit blurry since a dark garage, a flashlight, and an iphone don't make very good conditions for pictures... It doesn't look like the cable itself is damaged, but it's enough to make me want to replace the cable. Any ideas on what to do from here? Thanks for any help.

Never touched a feeler gauge before, but the concept seems simple. Have a EE degree and built tube amps, so no problem with DVOM. Like to think I'm not stupid, some may disagree. As I said in one of my other threads, Moto International and Micha are only a few miles away if I do something really rash... I'm going to jump on in.

Thanks for the instruction and confirmation. I just saw a post by Vuzzi in the "Popping and misfiring" thread. It sounds like the same issue as mine. I also have had some misfires at low rpm. If that did help it, that would be great. I will still need to go through the whole tps thing, balancing etc. as well. Looks like there's more than just slapping on a gasket for me.

I'm building a list of things I need to work on the 2002 Le Mans. There is something seeping oil in front of the left cylinder. I've downloaded a manual for a V11 sport. I'm not sure it is the same as my bike, but I will ask Moto International when I get there later this week. I think it's the rpm and tdc sensor. First, is that correct? Second, what would cause it to leak? I'm guessing the gasket. It's not leaking oil. There is no oil on the ground. Thanks

I'm comfortable trying anything because if I screw something up, I can take it to Micha. I actually bought this bike off of him. He mentioned working with the PC first. I can always go back to the current map. I will take a look at that stuff, so thanks for that. In fact, I bought new intake boots today. One of them has started to crack, but not all the way though yet. Thanks all for the maps.

As I mentioned in another thread, I just got a 2002 Le Mans. It's running a bit rough in first at low revs. It has a power commander, mistral pipes, and a mistral cross over. Does anyone have a map I can test out? If nothing else, I'd like to play with the power comander a bit. When I bought the bike, I decided that I was going to try most maintenance on it myself. I have a long way to go since the most I've ever really done before is change oil and put on pipes. Any maps would be appreciated.

Very good point. It was sitting on that lip part. There was enough gunk in the area to do that. How would I go about un-clogging a small tube like that? Not quite sure how to go about that.

Mine got exactly the same: water around top lip after washing or standing in the rain. I don't think any water is getting inside the tank so i'm just being carefull to refuel it after riding through the rain :-) Mine definitely had water on the inside of the cap. I will call Moto International to get replacement gaskets. Any other ideas?

Sorry if this has been covered, but I did not find it in a search, though I'm notoriously bad at finding stuff like that. It rained last night and my fuel light lit up on my new to me 2002 Le Mans mnus fairing. I wanted to check the fuel level (was getting low of course) but found water around the top lip of the fuel cap. I took it apart, cleaned everything, and think that big rubber gasket could use replacing. It's not awful, but does show some wear. While I'm at it, I figure I might as well replace the other gasket in there. Does that happen to these, or should I start looking at other issues? I'd hate to replace the entire cap because I'm guessing that is not cheap. I'm really hoping it has nothing to do with the tank warp thread a few threads down from this. Thanks

No Mistral cans aren't marked in any way, though they do provide a couple of stickers which look a bit naff, so quite likely the previous owner didn't stick them on ( I didn't as they look much better without them). As supplied in the UK the Mistrals don't have any baffles at all - you can see straight through them - I think the "DB killers" must be an optional extra. And yes, the sound is quite muted at small throttle openings, but that's what I like about them - it means I can ride around town with an illegal exhaust without attracting attention from the police, and as you say they still sound great when you open it up. Thanks for that. They do open up with the throttle and yet still do not get me kicked out of my condo. Perfect. Loving the guzzi, dead regulator and speedo and all. The seller works at Moto International here in Seattle and replacing both this weekend. I hope to get some real miles on it this weekend after the regulator is replaced.

I just bought mt first 2002 Le Mans with Mistral cans and the Mistral cross over installed. As a previous poster mentioned, it does sound a bit soft to me as well. So here's a couple dumb questions. Are the Mistral cans marked in any way? Most after market pipes I've installed have their logos stamped on. These are just plain carbon fiber (more class than a large logo). They look great, and sound good when on the throttle hard, but not on idle. I just want to be sure they are what the seller said they were. What do the baffles look like? Should I be able to see them looking at the can? I can't find pictures online. My questions could just come from the fact that one of my other bikes is a Honda Superhawk with 2 Brothers on it...