bentfab

I'll check both, thanks for the input. Too hot to be digging up driveway!

My bike has started to stall when I put it on it's side stand so I can open the garage door. It only happens when the motor is hot. It only happens when the bike is leaning on the side stand, if I just put stand down but hold the bike level it is fine. As soon as I lean it to it dies. Sometimes it will sputter for a bit first, sometimes it dies immidiately, sometimes it sits there and purrs just fine. It only does this in my driveway at night when I'm coming home. When I pull up at the shop in the morning to open the gate it never has a problem. Before I start tearing out my driveway to make sure it's not on top of an ancient Indian burial ground, does anybody have a better idea?

Just took a test spin! Pulls hard from low rpm's like a twin should and really smoothed out that mid level flat spot! Also got rid of that terrible rat-a-tat-tat out of the exhaust that the Harley guys love so much when you back off the throttle.

I was going to use the blue thread loc. The paste, not the liquid. Makes things snug, but not permenant.

I have same phobia - never touched FI, always took it to a man who knew. Your words are an inspiration! Which instructions did you follow? Thanks. KB In the FAQ section there is an article called "TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning how to set your TPS and balance throttle bodies". When I finally figure out that mV = milli volt, or 150mV = .15 volts it all clicked. I borrowd a Twin Max electronic carb adjuster from one of the Harley riders in the shop next door. Easier to use than mercury sticks.

Hey guys, After adjusting the valves this weekend I decided I should finally break down and adjust the TPS and sync the throttle bodies. Had avoided TPS adjustment in the past because it seemed intimidating, but after reading over the instructions I found here I gave it a try and had the bike running better than it has in years in less than 45 minutes. Thanks! One question though. The air by pass screw on both of my throttle bodies have almost no resistance and I'm afraid they will vibrate out of sync on my first ride. I thought about backing them all of the way out (do they come all of the way out?) and putting a dap of thread loc on them before re-syncing. Any reason this is a bad idea? Anyone have a better solution? Thanks

I'm thinking about adding a small "bikini" fairing /windscreen to my V11 Sport. As I've gotten older and my daily commute has gotten further, the constant beating of an 80mph head wind is starting to take it's toll on my neck. Could anyone who has put one on their bike tell me if it has made a difference? What type of fairing and where did you buy it?I'll probably end up hammering my own from aluminum, but would like to designs of ones that actually help buffer the wind. thanks

Yeah, I think it's time to start taking things apart and cleaning them up. To bumb start you have to put it in second gear and jump on the seat just as you are letting clutch out.

my '02 acts exactly like this about 50% of the time.(although i've not tried to bump start) you've probably already tried this, but when this happens i turn off the kill switch on right bar, then turn it back on & it will start every time. good luck, stef I've tried that, it's the only thing that doesn't seem to help!

I've got a 2000 V11 Sport w/ 50,000 + miles. Over the last couple of months it developed a starting problem that I cannot figure out because it is totally random. Bike starts fine 90% of the time, but the rest of the time when I hit ignition switch nothing happens at all, as if the bike is not even turned on.I can hear the feul pump cycle. It has the Bosch relays. They are a few years old, but it's been my experience that when a realy fails, it fails. Not works some time and not others. Sometimes if I just hit the ignition switch again it will start. Sometimes if I turn key off then back on it will start. Sometimes if I put bike in gear and bumb it forward it will then start. If none of those works I push start. Sometimes it starts on first push w/ minimal effort. Other times I can push it up and down the block for half an hour and nothing happens. Then I'll hit the ignition switch and it will fire right up. I was thinking dirty contacts at ignition switch or relay or a lose wire some where, but then why will it not push start and then decide to fire up? Or for that matter if it is a lose wire somewhere why would it fire up when I've done nothing more than hit the ignition switch again. I'd appreciate any input. This is my daily driver. Thanks

Ended up buying a bearing puller from Harbor Frieght for a little over $30. Worked great. Took old bearings to local bearing supply and got the two of them for around $12. Local MG dealer wanted $30 each! Thanks again for your help.

Thanks guys, I'll look into getting a puller. Stearing head bearings need to be replaced as well so it would be a good investment. I am curious to know how you used a dremel to get the bearings out. I've already got dremels, die grinders etc.

Howdy, New to this forum, but I've had my 2000 V11 Sport for about 9 years and have put 45K miles on it. One of my front bearings decided to tear itself apart the other day while I was cruising down the road at an aggressive pace. Trying to save a coupe of bucks by replacing them myself, but for the life of me can not get them out. I guess the big question is, how are you supposed to punch them out from the inside when the spacer is in the way? Should I hammer on the part of the spacer that sticks out using it for a punch? I tried tapping it lightly but nothing moved. Don't want to wail on it and f up the rim if this is not the proper way to remove bearings. Am I over looking something obvious? Please help, it's my daily driver. Been in the truck for two days now and can't stand it.