ajonen

From Wildguzzi: http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=49105.msg792655#msg792655 I just got of the phone with Rhueben at T. Marcus Customs. He explained the whole process he uses and really put my mind at ease about coating my tank. If anyone else is interested in having your tank coated, and I HIGHLY recommend it give him a call at: Tony Marcus Customs 818 759 4724 Cost : $250 plus return shipping. Address: T Marcus Customs 6909 Formdale Ave Unit A N Hollywood, CA 91605 Process: Allow your tank to dry for approx 2 months to shrink to standard size. 1. Ship him your tank from ups or fedex with the pumps and gaskets removed. Be sure to wrap your tank in bubble wrap. Ensure there is a 2 inch gap between the tank and the side of the box. 2. puts your tank on a machine that cleans the inside for 4 hours. This is 90% of the process. It preps the inside of the tank for the epoxy. 3. coats the tank and cures the epoxy in an oven. 4. 7 - 10 day turn around.

Finally got it running. here is the full run down. 1. cdi unit was dead. Replaced with a cdi unit from a ducati. It only needs timing so it worked fine. ( Saved about $900 by finding out this gem of knowledge.) 2. carb boots were not tightly sealing. replaced with new sport carb boots. 3. carb overflow hoses were not draining. rerouted correctly. 4. float needles were not seating. replaced oring on needle float bowl. adjusted floats until carbs stopped draining gas. This fixed the horrible idle. 5. added vent hose to cdi to both intake boots. 6. synced carbs for idle and slide. 7. mikuni flatslide 38 with KN filter and HP exhaust. 17.5 pilot 1 turn out pilot screw 170 main needle on middle clip. idle set at 1000 rpm. Big lesson here is don't trust the mikuni factory float levels. The pressure of the fuel was pushing the needles open.

Yup. You probably checked and adjusted at TDC on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. That would explain why they were so tight when you checked them. This time start looking for TDC just after the intake valve closes as you're turning the engine over. Yup that is exactly what I did. Fixed now. Well I synced the carbs best I could by hand. I set the tappets correctly. Still having idle trouble. I am going to try and set the float level and replace the o ring on the needle float bowl. The bike drips gas when it is sitting so this IS a problem that I CAN solve. One less variable to have to deal with. The bike may be "loading" up due to a faulty o ring or needle or brass needle float bowl. One problem at a time you know.

So I just adjusted the tappets and the left side was WAY too tight. Now the left side is VERY loud. Is this something I should worry about.

I also just noticed on the mikuni's that the overflow tube was connected to one of the vents. It has gas in it too! I disconnected the overflow from the vent so that it could actually drip the gas instead of filling the carb. We will see if that helps.

well the vacuum hose T didn't fix the idle. I also tried to lower the float level. Didn't fix the idle either. I am going to try and replace the O-ring on the needle as it seems to be dripping gas a little out of the carbs. I am a newb so I posted a topic on how to check the timing. Thanks for the help.

I just found a guzzi 1100 carb manual. Looks like the vacuum should be T connected into the digiplex:

I am still working to get this 1996 Guzzi Sport 1100 carb to run at its best. So far I have: 1. installed a new digiplex 402 cdi. Since the guzzi only needs the timing it seems to work. It has rectified many of the timing problems I was experiencing. 2. The previous owner had installed mikuni 38 flatslide carbs in an effort to fix the problem previously. Aftermarket pipes were also installed. I have the mikunis running very well at top, mid and off idlewith a 170 main jet, needle on middle clip, 17.5 pilot, pilot/air screw turned out 1.5 turns. I am also getting about 40 MPG. The problem I am experiencing is that it won't idle consistently. It will idle from startup at 800 - 900 rpm just fine. When I drive around a bit and then stop it will idle for a bit then die. It spits out the carbs when it dies. If I turn the pilot/air screw out more it spits/pops out the carbs more. I am thinking it has something to do with the vacuum hose going from the intake to the cdi or something with the spark failing at idle. The bike runs perfect at every other throttle level. There was only one vacuum going from the left side intake to the digiplex unit. The other intake was capped off. Should both intakes be connected with a T and then go to the digiplex? I am thinking that at low idle the digiplex is getting confused b/c it doesn't have consistent vacuum from the alternating piston firing. Any thoughts?

Thanks, I will give them a call. That will be a big help. Yeah someone replaced the dellortos on this bike with flatslides because the CDI unit was out. They made the mistake you are referring to. So I found a CDI unit off of a ducati that works just as well on this sport 1100 carb and saved about $900. That cleared up about 90% of my issues. Now I need to readjust the carbs since I don't have the dellortos anymore.

I have a 1100 sport carb with mikuni carbs on it. Has anyone ever used these on this motor? I cannot seem to get the bike to idle reliably. here is the current setup on Mikuni flatslide T38 carbs Main Jet:175 Pilot Jet: 20 Slide: 1 - P2 Pilot screw 1 full turn out. It stumbles on idle when coming to a stop and often dies. I am thinking of trying a 17 pilot and 170 main. Anyone else use mikuni's on this motor?

I got the cdi unit on the bike you recommended and that was DEF the problem. It runs a lot better. I have mikuni flatslides on it now. 38 I think. The do NOT have accelerator pumps that I see. The bike is back in the shop to adjust the carbs and hopefully that will resolve all my issues.

Someone incorrectly removed the Dellorto PHM40ND1 carbs on the 1996 Sport 1100 I have trying to rectify a cdi issue. Now I am looking for a pair.

I don't know about the variations in the curves if at all. If you look at my signature you will see that I make an ignition module that will replace the Digiplex and I've got one in a Sport 1100 producing good results. You should continue to try and find one you can test with.It sounds strange that it goes bad but still runs the bike. I would think it works or it doesn't. The fuel side sounds much more likely the problem. How do you know it doesn't advance? Have you seen it with a timing light? I agree, more likely a carb issue, especially if yor bike has sat up for any amount of time. Try a carb clean and sync before spending the big bucks. I had my mechanic work on it and he did do a full carb adjustment and sync. The carbs are of course not the standard ones on the bike. We sent in the ECU and were told it was dead. If we disconnect the vacuum tube it still runs the same. If the throttle is really hit it just dies like it won't advance.

Yes, but to be sure this is the exact part: Digiplex 2S Magneti Marelli ECU ? Of course my ebay account is now locked out for some reason.