68C
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Posts posted by 68C
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Hi Tomchri, can you tell me more about the lanolin you used.
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Sadly a lot of truth in your rant.
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Yeah, really important on a two a two stroke especially at full throttle. Loads of info on the web, Google 'plug chop'
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Did you do a proper 'plug chop' or just park up and look at the plug? by this I mean cutting the ignition while under power to get an accurate colour unspoilt by the idle mixture as you slow down and park.
Find a road where you can safely park, accelerate to a reasonably high speed, and stop safely, at least a mile preferably uphill. First of all warm the engine up using the existing plugs, then quickly fit new plugs and ride off while the engine is still hot.
Now do the 'plug chop'. By this I mean run the bike for at least ten seconds, perhaps more, at the RPM and throttle position you want to investigate , quickly pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch. Now look at the new plug, this will be a true indication of the mixture at your chosen rpm and throttle setting. If you just stop normally and park up you get a plug colour which may have been changed with motor running on idle mixture.
As Wide Open Throttle is the position that a weak mixture can cause damage over a long run it is a good idea to check that first, however if you are unsure of the procedure it may be safer to get used to the technique by practising the chop at increasing speeds using the old plugs before doing a proper test run.
have fun.
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Hi Voyce, the relays you sent me arrived safely this morning.
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Do any of the later big block guzzi rocker covers fit our V11s, I like the way the spark plug leads look so neat.
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OK, so you have a system to accurately measure the AFR and have software to adjust the ECU to set the AFR you want.
All well and good, your next problem is deciding what AFR you want, 14.7:1 (or Lambda 1.00) often considered the theoretical full burn, or some other figure, add to that the suspicion the infernal combustion engine won't even allow you to use one ratio right across the map.
Takes me back to playing with carbs and checking plug colour, then deciding what colour the plug was. All seem to come down to a hunch determined by how long you wanted to play with it. Dyno?, when I were a lad that was a giant lizard.
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Yes, please PM me......and no thats not me in the avatar.
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Pop down to Walmart and get an endoscope, small digital camera on a flex lead that plugs into your phone. Remove a spark plug and have a look, be carefull how far you move the piston with the camera inside LOL.
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Before doing too much work, crack detect the barrels. An easy way is to leave them soaking overnight in diesel, wipe dry and cover in chalk dust (grind up your kids blackboard chalks), any cracks around the ports will be obvious. Cracks also show up when you bead blast, after you have spent money on the blasting of course.
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I wasn't certain of the difference berween the V11 engine & the later Griso engines, but threw the idea out there. Pete's explination closed off that possibility though.
Looks like you had covered that potential problem with new gaskets anyhow.
Hi, is it a five or six speed gearbox? I ask as the RD250 sold in the UK had a five speed box, folk soon found out it actually had a six speed box but Yamaha had blanked sixth off. It seems that at the time the UK felt six gears gears was a sign of a machine with a narrow power band which would have affected sales, no problem thought Yamaha and fitted a wider blank that normally stopped the drum rotating from top to first gear. Once they started to get requests for the narrow blank (off the previous year bike) they soon moved onto six gears. I did the mod and added the new part along with with fitting a smaller gearbox sprocket. I heard of folk who just took out the old blank but did not fit the new part and.........soon forgot and shifted from sixth to first!Can't wipe the stupid grin off my face after buying this old smoker. It's gonna be a fun resto mod this winter.
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Aha.
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Does anyone know why the oil temp sensor screws into the cylinder head and not the oil sump?
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Docc, love the 'Remove before flight' tag.
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Hi Chuck, about 500miles ago, 18 months.
I think it is probably a dynamic unbalance as altering throttle seems to make little difference. I tried tying the sidestand up with an elastic bungee, no difference.
I had been on a funeral run, about fifty miles cruising around 3000rpm, on the return trip on my own I noticed this band of vibration. After SwooshDave saying his vibrates as well I'm beginning to think it is just normal and that I had got used to the lower vibes when on the run. As I am feeling it through the footpegs I expect it is a secondary lateral vibe. I am probably comparing it with my old T3 and Triumph 900.
I will just learn to ride around it.
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SwooshDave, thanks for putting my mind at rest. While I was riding half of me was thinking just avoid that rpm, the other half was imagining a noisy explosion of metal.
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Took the Rosso Corsa out for the first time in a year, I could feel a distinct vibration between 4000 and 4500 rpm, I don't remember that from the past but it is possible it was always there. It comes in quickly as I accelerate into that region felt mainly through the footrests/rear brake master cylinder guard. It also returns as I decelerate into that zone with a closed throttle.
Is this vibration normal?
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I have often wondered about that. After all it is not like a 360° parallel twin where the even pulses help extract the exhaust from the other cylinder. With our V twins we may be able design a system that helps with one cylinder but it will then hinder the other, perhaps uneven pipe lengths would work. I tried making seperate pipes for my T3, in truth I did not notice any difference, refitted the original as it was prettier than my bodge welding.
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Nice to see the Snap-On duck billed pliers, the black red handled ones are OK but I still miss my old octopus grip pair a co-worker 'borrowed'..........Oh, wrong thread.
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I remember seeing a California with the square barrels machined to round of the corners with round rocker covers, not sure if the covers were custom or standard early covers sitting on an adapter plate that doubled as gaurds. I thought it looked much nicer than the square motors.
My main complaint with the visual aspect of the V11 LeMans is how the motor looks like it is tilted back, due to the need to get the drive shaft lined up I expect. Pity they did not sort that with the 6 speed box. The Norton Commando looks like it is doing a hundred stood still thanks to its inclined motor.
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Some stick pins through the insulation and into the wire core then attach a multimeter to the pins. I do not like that, seems a good way to get water into the wire and future corrosion. I stripped a part of the wire back and soldered on two permanent test leads then sealed with paint and overlayed with self almalgamating tape. A more expensive way is to buy the special lead however it is difficult to unplug and replug the TPS connecter as it is behind the RH throttle body, I was scared of damaging the plug or the TPS. I supposed most folk leave the lead attached.
The ignition must be turned on so 5v is applied across the TPS by the ECU. There are three wires to the TPS, ground/neutral, positive and the lead from the TPS wiper arm. As the TPS rotates from zero to full the voltage on the wiper arm raises from zero to 5 volts theoretically. In fact it rarely goes as high as a true 5 volts.
We will adjust the TPS to approximately 0.15 volts (150mv) with the throttle cable and the link rod disconnected. Once reconnected expect about 0.45 volts (450mv).
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I have not seen a Nero Corsa personally.68... we pride our selves on safe riding, be it at speed... no need to cross the fog or center lines, tho the crown range looks a bit dodgy with all the passing but visability is good and its not as fast as it looks.
nice Rosso mines a Nero, have you ever seen a nero in the UK?
However this set me off wondering how many Guzzis there are in the UK.
Our Department For Transport recommended looking on:
It not a government website but is based on DfT data. Only goes back to around 2002.
Just type in your vehicle, several charts available.
To help, SORN, is the Statuary Off Road Notification.
For the last ten years or so, all vehicles in the UK must be registered, taxed, insured and have an MOT certificate (annual safety check) unless it is not being used on the road i.e. in your garage being rebuilt etc. In which case SORN must be raised. The idea was to stop tax dodgers saying "I forgot to tax it".
As an aside, the DfT recently came up with a cunning way to get more tax revenue when vehicles are sold between individuals (not a dealer). It used to be when you sold a vehicle any Road Tax carried by the vehicle (on a paper disc - now discontinued) would stay with it to be used by the new owner. Now the seller MUST cancel and get a refund for any Road Tax and the buyer MUST retax it before they can take it on the road. The clever part is the seller can only claim a refund of a complete months tax, the buyer must buy tax from the beginning of a month. So, if you sell on the 14th, you lose two weeks tax and the buyer has to tax the vehicle from the beginning of that month. One month tax fee to the DfT! For this reason many vehicles are sold as SORN which makes a road test difficult.
The one good thing is you can now tax/untax a vehicle online so unless you are sure you will use the bike in any month SORN it.
If you look at Moto Guzzi V11 Le Mans you will see how many are currently taxed or SORN. I am embarressed to admit mine is one of the latter, but not for much longer.
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starting & stopping issue
in Technical Topics
Posted
Have you got a trade name for it?