68C
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Posts posted by 68C
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Put the bike on SORN as not allowed to use it at present. Don't want to use it to just go one mile to the shops as it won't warm up properly.
Translation: Statutory Off Road Notice, UK method of advising authority you have taken the vehicle off the road and so do not pay any Vehicle Excise Duty/road tax for any complete months it is off road.
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There is no special edition badge, it is not a special or limited edition bike.
It should have standard exhaust and standard ecu labelled Le Mans.
It should have Ohlins suspension front and rear. The steering damper is not Ohlins. The side panels should say Le Mans.
Good bike, most problems had been sorted by then.
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Refers to going fast on a racing bike, crouched down over the tank.
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3 hours ago, stewgnu said:
maybe the shaft? i’ve noticed she can ‘kick’ a bit off small potholes at certain speeds when accelerating.
Is it not possible to fit the later front end onto the early models? different headstock?
Interesting idea, I am not aware of any defect with mine. I thought the idea of the V11 suspension as opposed to the Tonti bikes was no torque reaction lifting or lowering the swing arm.
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My Rosso Corsa has never had that floating feeling, perhaps just the nature of the beast. The only really odd thing I have with handling is on one road on the way to work, just after a double 90° bend over a bridge I get a real kick from the rear suspension. Driven over it loads of time in my car, no problem, no obvious bump in the road. Also no problem with my Triumph Trident 900.
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Hi Steve, if not already sorted PM me. I still have the one you supplied to me so better it goes to someone who needs it rather than sitting in my 'just in case' box. We can sort out a replacement slow time.
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Just seen this on UK Ebay, I am not connected with it.
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6 hours ago, Meinolf said:
don't understand the question. What do you mean by effective valve clearence?
Sorry, I meant to say effective valve timing. I must have the virus!
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If you set your valves to the wider setting and do not make any changes to the valve timing I understand the valves will open later and close earlier. With our V11s we cannot fine tune valve timing without buying special vernier sprockets. Does the difference between standard and wide valve clearances make much difference to effective valve clearance? Also get your point about the larger setting misses the quieting ramp on the cam.
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Thank you for your clear explanation. I see now by having the valve follower making contact further up the cam it will 'snap' open quicker. The small difference in total valve opening is unimportant.
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On 3/16/2020 at 7:01 AM, Meinolf said:
Disregarding all other factors, decreasing the play would reduce the airflow, which would lead to a richer mixture than I intended. Increasing it, within reason, would slightly improve airflow and lead to a leaner mixture.
Bit confused by this, surely if you opened up the valve clearance to a ridiculous amount the valves would hardly open and so there would be little gas flow. In the same way if you tightened the clearance to almost zero the valves would open further and pass more gas.
So how can "decreasing the play would reduce the airflow" make sense?
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6 hours ago, 80CX100 said:
I'm a newbie with guzzidiag, only done 2 tuneups with it; I'm good with computers, but I'll be in over my head saving fuel maps and uploading new ones, so I'm hoping to only do this once, my theory being much less chance of screwing things up,lol.
Get yourself a second hand ecu, any WM15M, could be from a Guzzi or a Ducati 750/900. Practice loading and unloading the maps, play around with adjustments without risk as you will have your original intact. You could carry the original ecu in the tail stowage until happy with your new map as a get you home item. Once happy sell off one of the ecus.
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I remember riding a Centauro back in the day while I was regularly riding my T3 850. Had it on a test ride from 3Cross in Dorset UK. I remember it as harsh and horrid. Felt like the crankshaft was being turned by sledge hammers hitting the pistons down, the whole bike seemed to bounce along the road, or rather proceeded in a series of jolts. Getting back on my T3 was a relief. The Centauro was also as ugly as I am. Doing anything to turn it into something else would be a blessing, perhaps to weight a yacht buoy down would be apt.
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Lucky Phil, provided your carbon fibre parts are covered in some non conductive coating, laquer etc you may get away with it. Your aircraft parts are correctly built and will have adequate bonding which will disperse any inflight static electricity and help prevent the galvanic corrosion. Raw carbon fibre in contact with al alloy in the presence of an electrolyte (dirty water) will corrode the alloy.
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And another chance for me to mention the corrosion issue with carbon fibre and aluminium alloy. They must not be in direct contact but well separated, preferably with electrically insulating washers etc. Otherwise those lovely Ohlin mudgaurd mounts will corrode to dust. Carbon fibre is not plastic.
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Although this thread does refer to the WM15 ecu, it seems to only discuss the Ducati bikes that use that ecu. I know the WM15 ecu fitted to both Guzzi and Ducati are the same, I am using a Ducati 750ecu on my V11 for tinkering and playing with the map, the maps of course are different. Is this 3000 rotation determined by the map or is it hard wired into the ecu? As this is the first time I have seen any reference to this 3000 rotation I wonder if it is relevant to the Guzzi V11.
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I often use bits of cardboard glue etc to make a rough pattern gives me something to measure from for the next bit.
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Really impressed. I have always done minor mods to my bikes, surprising how long it takes to just alter a mounting bracket or move a component. The standing and thinking always takes much longer than the actual doing. You can forgive designers making apparently odd decisions when they have a whole bike to figure out.
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I was told a similar technique for foot and hand position. With a bike on its centre stand LOL, place both open hands palm down on the bars, try to stand up, if you need to grab the bars and pull your feet are too far forward, if you have to push then too far back. May be safer than checking at 60mph but of course does not take wind pressure into account. Perhaps add a slight degree of push?
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I did exactly what you have done as soon as I got the bike, that and drilled headstock to accept higher bars, a comfy bike.
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As you say, on a parallel twin maybe it helps.
Have you ever contributed to a thread then after a few turns kind of lose interest in continuing the story.
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I thought the idea of connecting the manifolds was to help keep the carbs/fuel injector bodies balanced at closed or almost closed throttle, once you open the throttle it makes little difference. We used to blank the balance pipe off while setting up and synching the carbs then reconnect. Probably a 360° parallel twin thing.
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If they spin slower than than other Guzzi drive shafts they must be subject to higher, not lower torque.
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I have often wondered if linking the two manifolds would help low throttle balance. Many parallel twins do, perhaps the uneven firing order of our v- twins mean this would not be of any benefit.
andreani front kit
in 24/7 V11
Posted
You can't get much past Docc.