PDoz
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Posts posted by PDoz
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You guys are in luck, guzzigander has added a v11 lemans to the nz hire fleet! Nb those are nz $ , and worth every cent! I had a magical 5 week trip touring nz on a transalp once...I really must go back
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I've had both tubed and tubeless tyres go flat both slowly and instantly, the only thing that really terrifies me is a tyre peeling off the rim and that only seems to happen on high profile tyres with soft sidewalls (like my transalp front running a tkc 80 on a dessert trip...scary stuff at 140 k's) . A couple of months ago the back on my guzzi went flat in a corner- literally a cut through the tyre - she felt a bit wobbly whenever we got under 80 k's, but I was still able to ride her home (50 k's). Sure, it's a bit scary sharing the road with tractors on these days....but not the sort of thing that'd stop me running sexy wheels.
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Fresh car bettery read the same? Where are you measuring the voltages and are you sure the voltmeter is accurate?
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Since you enjoy reading about maintenance...I filled my fuel tank 3 times on Tuesday...does that count? I also scrubbed in the edges of a new set of tyres and recharged the battery the enjoyable way. These guzzis are high maintenance.....
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Scud, I'll be interested to hear how you find the narrower tyre. I've got the 180/55 gt on the back of my 03 lemans and really wouldn't want the tyre any flatter. The rear tyre is just reaching the edge as the pegs drag, tip in feels fine to me, and I'm really happy with feel in corners.
If anything, the front might be a bit too high? I've got an st angel 120/70 on the front and there's a good 3/4 mm of wasted rubber.
Then again, I had 480 k's of heaven today ....absolutely no complaints !
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Here's a shot of the acorn nut cover, and the actual eccentric adjust and (flanged!) jambnut.
That's not a flange, it's a washer.
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No 9 made the most difference to my bike. The other eccentric ( lets call him 32) was the icing on the cake - think of it as limitting the stroke of the gearlever. Effectively, once I got a reliable change using no 9 , I then adjusted 32 until I had the shortest stroke to reliably change gears. You have to remove the cover to get to 32.
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It doesn't help that the harpers image doesn't label the normal eccentric pin ( seen in the 32 exploded view but not labelled)
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Cam, that adjuster is only one of the eccentric screws on the post 03 box, the other is item 9 in the harper exploded view. I'll be interested to see if their service update advises how to best adjust screw 9.
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I also had no idea about that other eccentric apdjustment until about my second coffee! I'd been sitting there scratching my head and thinking the pawl shaft needed moving when I noticed the locking nut near the gearchange that wasn't in any of the pics on this forum ( or any manual I could find online) . Theoretically, you could adjust this without even removing the cover - say 1/8 th turn at a time? I already had the cover off so have no idea if it's viable this way.
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Chamberlin, your box will already have that updated setup.
I solved my shifting issues by finetuning the eccentric pin ( item 9) - basically pull the plate off, sit down with a couple of cups of coffee, run through the gears a few times, work out if the selector shaft is sitting too high or low, then adjust the eccentric pin possition. Drink coffee, repeat the process, then when you're absolutely sure it's in the right spot adjust the other eccentric screw that limits the ratchet ( item 24). Drink another cup of coffee, check again before reasembling. Haven't missed a gearchange since!!!
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$1200 ? I can think of lots I can do to my bike for $1200. Which is only worth maybe $3-$4k ?
You might also check the board where there was mention that the stock shock could be rebuilt using Ohlins parts.
$1200 seems reasonable for a decent shock with the hydraulic preload ($300 + worth) , but I guess it depends on how long you intend keeping the bike? Think of it as a couple of sets of tyres, it'll make a whole lot more difference than new tyres!
Ps I've got a wilburs so have no need for the ohlins - my bike only had 5000 km on it when I installed the wilburs, but the transformation was amazing. On tuesday I came over a crest on the wrong side of 130 k, got very airborne, perfectly smooth landing and not even a hint of headshake! How do you put a price on that?
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If you've just got a crack, have a talk with screens for bikes. I sent him my cracked lemans screen and he used it as a template
http://www.screensforbikes.com/shop/moto-guzzi/le-mans-v-11-01-04/
Great price, great to deal with, and chose your tint
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The 43's tapered progressive spring has the lighter wound part at the thinner ( top) tapered end. It fits into a lip in the spring preload thingy. Unfortunately, if you're aiming at a stiffer spring this is the end you'd need to remove so the modified spring wouldn't fit inside the lip. There is a thread somewhere on here on modifying the lip /fitting springs from an earlier set of forks.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12946&hl=marzocchi&do=findComment&comment=156367
I just fitted stiffer shorter wilbur springs and a spacer ( a bit of stainless tube from a milking machine)
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There is a cheap way to increase the rate of a straight rate spring, cut a small amount off the end of the spring and replace with an equal amount of spacer. The reduces the length of the spring wire and thus makes the spring stiffer.
This won't work with the stock spring - it's both progressive AND tapered ( ie the top is narrower to fit inside the lip of the spring preload adjuster.
My vote is use the $ on decent springs before you bother replacing the bushes . That's what I did, and it transformed the bike ( but I only had 10,000 km on the clock and had a wilburs rear shock)
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For the post 04 " boomerang" technique see
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18571&hl=boomerang&do=findComment&comment=197962
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Why pay the premium of a lemans if you're going to make up your own styling etc? By 87 the california was 1000 cc vs 850 in the lemon??? Plus there is a strange irony in entering a cruiser......
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Yeah, that rg500 would pass me on the straights, take off into the distance then by the second last corner I'd pass him again. Scraping the transalp frame through the last corner I'd beat him across the line some of the time.... great fun.
That poor transalp had to do everything - 2up tours through the outback, road racing, even full on dirt riding ( in snow) . It had replaced a v50 so had to prove itself!
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I haven't raced since uni days...back before income protection insurance was a consideration...I think my last race was on the mighty transalp
But we also played with buckets and even pw50's on gokart tracks
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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If you're not logged in you'll avoid downloading pictures in the thread, but you'll still get avatars.
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G'day, my name is John and I have a mint 850 Le Mans Mk111 (1983) parked in my garage. It belongs to a friend of mine who lives in Tasmania. he just bought the bike in Britain, and it has been delivered to me. and I am going to arrrange for its registration in Australia. It arrived empty of liquids, including all oil except for the forks, and with no battery.
I have consulted the owners manual and it gives oil specifications for the motor, gearbox and bevel drive. All are Agip oils. I have done a search (for what it was worth) and found no information at all. I know people in forums hate theses questions, but what modern oils do you recommend for these 3 applications and what about a battery.....can you recommend a brand and model number. I will probably get a Yuasa....just need to know a number.
Hope you can help me here.
Cheers
Chewie, if you need a local mechanic /source of parts try
I think the guy who runs jacksonracing leathers is down your way as well, he might be able to advise if there is anyone else around
Good luck with the mk 3 , and if you decide to give her a test run out towards Licola /Dargo / Omeo then bounce me a pm
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Looking at these lists, there seems to be a lot of duplication with people owning 2 or more similar bikes.
In Australia, we pay registration / personal injury insurance of about $350 per vehicle per year, plus voluntary property / crash insurance ( another $300 plus) - ie I own 3 bikes , 2 cars , a boat with trailer and another box trailer, so that's 8 lots or registration / insurance. ( I don't want to add it up...)
Every year I look at my vehicle shed and wonder why I sold my africa twin....plus I keep scouring the classifieds dreaming of a nice ntx750 .
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I can only think of two reasons why marzochis would live on a nero
1 is the frame still straight after the crash?
2 it's a Postumi di sbornia ?
Ps love the grey pork chops!
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Problem solved! I assembled it with the cogs 1 notch out f synch ...oops.
The good news is, the gearbox is now AMAZING - no false neutrals, and almost as slick as a japanese box - clutch less shifts are a breeze! Anyone having difficulty with a later model gearbox - I'd strongly encourage fine tuning the 2 eccentric adjusters!
Real classy!
in Technical Topics
Posted
Pete, if you contact them and they don't resolve this to your satisfaction can you let us all know? Next time I'm looking for bits for my guzzis I'll know where NOT to look.