motowarren
-
Posts
106 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by motowarren
-
-
The price of a good running Guzzi is constant vigilance!
Perhaps the occasional intense interlude.
Be well fettled!
. I'm not so sure docc. I've been riding my RM the last few days thinking "I don't think this things ever run better" It might just be something in the air or the alignment of the stars
-
Here s a link for my Craigs list ad. If it doesn't work email me and I can send you pictures
https://post.craigslist.org/manage/4421607271
I brought this bike from the original owner about 2 years ago with almost 42,000 miles on it. Most service at that time was done by their Guzzi dealer, including replacing the block for bad paint and transmission upgrades. Since then I've only put about 300 miles on it due to Cancer and other health problems. I have spent a lot of time addressing all the problem areas in anticipation of riding but when riding weather came I was visiting doctors. So it's time to start getting rid of things that are not being used. I put all new springs and updated shift pawl and Red Line oil in the trans and it shifts great now. It also has the following mods along with all the original parts.
2001 V11 Rosso Mandello #101
Factory Ti exhaust w/ecu
Unique top triple tree and handlebar setup see here http://www.mgnoc.com/article_handlebars_on_a_rossa_.html
Roper sloper plate
Very recently rebuilt and revalved by RaceTech rear shock and
New race tech rear spring
Brembo GP front rotors
Michelin Pilot power front tire
Motobits foot controls relocators
Speedhut Combo gps speedo and tach
Different tail lite and rear signals
Bar end mirrors
Kydex rear fender eliminator
Becker Technik shop stand
Probably more stuff I forgot. I'd like to get $5000 OBO. If your interested give a call, we'll talk. Located in York PA 717-586-0699email is mawarhen@gmail.com
-
lol LuckyPhil. Don't you worry your pretty little head over me! I have the rear shock on my to-do list. I will also be adding bracing to the swingarm, replacing its bearings, replacing wheel bearing with ceramic ones, milling out the porckchops, and hopefully swapping the cardan shaft for a billet one if they ever are available again. Replacing all hardware possible with titanium. Every little bit counts. Especially on things that rotate under power or are unsprung. The Galfer rear rotor weighs 2.15 pounds. Titanium hardware weighs half of what regular steel weighs. I haven't weighed it yet (I will though) but I'm willing to bet that the Brembo rear rotor weighs over four pounds. Losing 2 pounds of rotating mass is not totally insignificant. And doing all the little insignificant things eventually adds up to something meaningful. Plus it's fun. Improving things is never a bad idea. This is my hobby, I thoroughly enjoy it. That said, I will draw the line at certain things, don't think I'll be installing Alpina wheels anytime soon... Unless I hit the lotto, then it's on. $165 for new and better brake rotor is not going to kill me.
I like your thinking. Go for it. If we all sat around saying this or that isn't worth the effort why would we want to ride old air-cooled, pushrod, v-twins
-
Just take one of the original lamps and wire it in parallel to the LED, tuck it in behind somewhere.
A lamp is much better than a resistor because it starts out cold at a low value, this gives the fuel level sensor full 12 Volts so it heats up quickly but the current drops back to about 100 mA.
The LED draw is insignificant compared to the incandescent.
I have mine wired this way, it works great.
What you really have to be careful of with the fuel sensor is not to mix it up with the electric petcock, on earlier bikes the plugs were interchangeable, later bikes have them keyed.
It's ok to put 12 Volts on the sensor if it's covered with fuel but it will burn out in seconds if uncovered.
How does the sensor work.
It's a thermistor with a negative temperature coefficient
When covered (kept cool) it just draws a few mA, not enough to light the lamp (incandescent)
Once uncovered the small current causes it to warm a little, this causes the resistance to drop so the current goes up which causes it to heat up a little more and so on getting faster and faster until the resistance drops to quite a low value. the only limiting factor is the bulb.
If you don't have the bulb in series (wrong plug) it will soon reach red heat before it melts.
It can't cause the fuel to ignite because it's in a metal can with just a tiny slot that acts like a flame arrestor.
Here you can see the old lamp covered in white heat shrink
The lamp should last forever because it gets a very easy life, no sudden turn on and never to full voltage.
Thanks Roy, Electrics is not my strong suit and I thought at first it should be wired in series but after I studied it a while I think I understand. Anyway I'll wire it in parallel.
-
Nice gauge, I got the same one! How are you liking it?
Kiwi_Roy actually explained to me how to use an LED instead of the stock bulb. He said to wire the original bulb in line with the LED. He can explain it much better than I can...
Paging Dr. Roy!
I like the speednut gauges a lot. It's nice to look at the speedo and know it's right instead of wondering whether the speedo is off or whether the tach is off today
-
Thanks for the help guys
-
When I relaced my stock gauges I also replaced my idiot lights w/led lights
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390561305533?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
everything works pretty good except my low fuel light stays on. I think I need to put a resistor in there but I don't have a clue what resistor. Can anybody help me?
-
The seal doesn't appear to be leaking on this one. The oil looks to be pushing through the sensor itself. A new one is 167USD, or a couple hundred bucks / a-buck-euro-fifty. Too many lire to count. Crazy.
I'll have to try and have my way with it using my arsenal of sealants and adhesives.
150 Euro . . . I just can't.
Please say a little prayer for my RTV silicone.
Just curious. What was the outcome of this fix??
-
The engine has never been apart.
Never hone nikasil, I'll be cleaning the cylinders and just adding new rings.
I've often wondered how hard it is to seat new rings in a cyl like this with no honing
-
I'm going down but that's not as big a deal as it sounds like because I'm in St Augustine for the winter. I'm not a big fan of the sea of humanity down there so I'm going to try and see some races. Although I understand you guys are meeting at Martin's seafood restaurant on Thurs so I may stop in and meet some of you guys there
Martins & Pantheon Pizza. Plus camp cookin' and drinkin' ..... ya'll don't wanna get a buzz on & ride.
Where and when is the Pantheon Pizza...never met a Pizza I didn't like
-
I'm going down but that's not as big a deal as it sounds like because I'm in St Augustine for the winter. I'm not a big fan of the sea of humanity down there so I'm going to try and see some races. Although I understand you guys are meeting at Martin's seafood restaurant on Thurs so I may stop in and meet some of you guys there
-
The built-in high speed damping on the Marzocchis is pretty harsh and generally does better with a thinner oil, typically 5 wt. But, it's important to know that one company's 5wt is another's 10wt. There are some charts in "centiStokes@100˚C" that differentiate the popular oils. If you're interested, I can post a link (if it's still live).
DOCC I'd like to see that chart if you could post it.
-
I brought this bike from the original owner about 1 ½ years ago with almost 42,000 miles on it. Most service at that time was done by their Guzzi dealer, including replacing the block for bad paint and transmission upgrades. Since then I’ve only put about 300 miles on it due to Cancer and other health problems. I have spent a lot of time addressing all the problem areas in anticipation of riding but when riding weather came I was visiting doctors. So it’s time to start getting rid of things that are not being used. I put all new springs and updated shift pawl and Red Line oil in the trans and it shifts great now. It also has the following mods along with all the original parts.
2001 V11 Rosso Mandello #102
Factory Ti exhaust w/ecu
Unique top triple tree and handlebar setup see here http://www.mgnoc.com/article_handlebars_on_a_rossa_.html
Roper sloper plate
Very recently rebuilt and revalved by RaceTech rear shock and
New race tech rear spring
Marchenzini front wheel
Brembo GP front rotors
Michelin Pilot power front tire
Motobits foot controls relocators
Speedhut Combo gps speedo and tach
Different tail lite and rear signals
Kydex rear fender eliminator
Probably more stuff I forgot. I know it’s not a good time of year to sell a bike I didn’t get time sooner. I’d like to get $5500 OBO. If your interested give a call, we’ll talk. Located in York PA 717-586-0699 Also see the craigslist ad I just listed for pictures. Also email me at mawarhen@gmail.com as I don't get time to get on here everyday
-
Gilera: as in the Italian motorcycle. Is the "G" pronounce like the "G" in George or the "G" like in Glare or good?
-
Moto Guzzi V11 sport rack. Good condition. Some scratches from luggage but otherwize perfect. $175 + shipping. Contact me at mawarhen@gmail.com or 717-586-0699
-
Completely different retro design. Should be nice on a t-shirt.
Yes I like it a lot. I'd buy it
-
Well I had a couple of hours to spend and came up with this idea for a forum t-shirt. Whaddayouthink?
I vote no. Call me an old prude but promoting sport bike riding and beer in the same breathe or logo is not an image I want to be a part of
-
Hello All,
So, after reading through this site and others, and riding my bike and experiencing some weird shifting behavior such as missed up-shifts, difficulty shifting down into 1st gear out of neutral, neutral light not coming on when in neutral, and false neutrals (which may explain the light not coming on when I think it should) I've decided to open up the gear box to look around, and to preemptively replace the pawl arm ratchet (04235101), the selector spring (04238300), as well as the lever spring (04239200) and the push spring (04238200). I've got some Red Line gear oil, as well as moly additive, with which to replace the gearbox oil after I'm done.
I got my parts today to do the same job your doing. I can't find it now but I think there was some confusion on the pawl arm ratchet. It seemed to be hit or miss ordering the old number as to whether you got the old pawl or the updated, smaller diameter one. Moto Guzzi has finally replaced the old part number (04235101) with a new part number (01235130) so that should avoid the confusion in the future. Now it's time to get it back together.
-
It sounds like you have a dealer problem AND a clutch problem. The dealer problem likely needs a new dealer. I don't know about dealers in NY., but there is a good dealer near Harrisburg, Pa.
What dealer is that your talking about? Europa Macchina?
-
I'll be there 1:00
-
That's a great ride I do that a couple of times a year myself. Unfortunatly my Guzzi is apart now for trans repair. Can I ride along on one of my other bikes?
-
great stuff mznyc. thanks. I'm at a different computer right now so I hope all these links and pics work when I get home. The other day when I was looking at some old photos on the forum it seemed like a lot of them were no longer there
-
Firstly, to keep this a little more linear,could you migrate this conversation back to your original thread?Maybe with your results after you pull the cover?
I thought I was there. Where is the original thread?
-
I went out and looked at the side cover and it looks like probably a half hour job, But I wanted to do some more evaluating first. I bought my bike from the original owner so I looked through the records I got with the bike and found the recall notice and work order for the transmission update performed back in '04. Along with the block being replaced, I assume for the black paint recall. I rode the bike some more and when down shifting it is definitely going past a gear to a neutral. So I road for about 10 miles concentrating on downshifting very lightly and it was much better but I still missed a few downshifts. I don't have any off the stock linkage, I have moto-Bits shifter. It has a couple of adjustments for leverage on the shifter. I moved it to give less leverage and drove for a while shift with authority and it worked pretty goo except about 1 time out of 4 going from 3 to 2 it wouldn't go in right away, being to short. So I doesn't seem like it's going to get any better. I'll take the side cover off and try adjusting the pawl engagement but I'm not very optimistic. What is it about the 04 shift cover that makes it so much better than the old one. The other thing is, is the later shift cover a sure cure or is it something that works for one guy but maybe not the other
My V11 on ebay
in 24/7 V11
Posted
time to go, start cleaning the garage http://www.ebay.com/itm/291171270921