motowarren
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Posts posted by motowarren
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Some of us with bar-ends have turned the clamp over so the receptacle points down. It's the clamp for the levers.
Duh,
That's where they were. Thanks. 
In my defense I did feel under neath but at the switch area not the lever clamp. -
When I bought my RM it had bar end mirrors on it. It also has a custom made triple tree w/handle bars. I'm pretty sure all the switches levers and master cyls are stock off of the clip-ons. I got the stock mirrors with the bike but I have nothing to screw them into. What am I missing? Do they screw into a separate brkt that goes between the grip and the switches? or........
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What type of fluid were you using in the gearbox ?
I don't know. Fluid that was in was from PO. It was very dark with a red tint.
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Well I fixed my shifting problem today. simply changed the oil to the Red Line heavy shock proof oil. I have never had a lubricant of any sort make that much difference in anything. I just got back from a 200 mile ride. All back roads with about 50 miles of long sweepers and 35 miles of intense mountain twistys and I didn't miss one shift. It felt like a new gearbox. So I'm satisfied with that problem being fixed...at least for now. Now the only thing left to fix is the gas mileage problem. That will have to wait for a while 'til I get some funds together for "My ECU" so I can run a closed loop system. The 200 mile ride was great. 74 degree beautiful sunny day and the leaves here in PA are at their peak fall colors and the Guzzi ran great and I felt as one with the bike. The more I ride this thing the better I like it.
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Problem had always shown itself when warmed up,and she was definitely up to temp.
So the problem may have been the pre-selector assembly all along.The new one appeared to be the same and alignment of marks identical,but something must have been wrong in there.
Your problems shifting sounds very similar to mine and after another ride the other day it seems more specifically to be downshifting to 4th and sometimes 3rd. I think it's something in the selector mechanism. What wears out there? What to look for when I take the plate off. I've checked everything else and nothing is binding, the clutch hydraulics are working good and the clutch is not slipping or dragging. I don't have a spare preselector assy to try. Is this something that a better lubricant like Red Line can fix? I was surprized to find out mine had a single plate clutch. I thought all the V11 sports were dual disc. Which one is better and why. Alot of questions I know
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I'll reserve removeing bearing caps as a last measure, I don't want to disturb bearing alignments the slightist bit.
I don't get that. Replacing the brg shells is easier than the work you've already done removing the sump. And there is no chance of mis alignment of the brgs as long as there installed in their grooves. And it's a ton easier and cheaper than later removing and regrinding or replacing the crank.
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I believe carbs are better than FI because of MY real world experience. I've put over 250k miles on various Guzi's and Ducatis and I have NEVER had one with inj that was better on gas mileage than the ones I've had with carbs.
You said yourself that your Breva got 45-50 so its not an issue of FI versus carb. The issue is whether the bike is properly setup and that goes for the FI too.
Your right Cliff so I see you use a "My ECU". DO you think that a V11 sport with a closed loop "My ECU" and set up for, lets say, 80 RWHP will get 40~50 MPG instead of 32~40 MPG?? Have you experienced much better gas mileage with your set up? Is the main difference between the Breva and V11 sport system the closed loop vs open loop system?
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Then you could install carbs, but why you think you can get better mileage with carbs I do not know.
I would either get a Power Commander and tune the bike as best you can or better yet get on of Cliff's MyECU's and really tune the bike.
But there are a few reasons for the mileage and fueling is only one of them. Other factors would include port and valve configuration as well as compression ratio and combustion chamber design. Also there is cams, valve lift and overlap.
I believe carbs are better than FI because of MY real world experience. I've put over 250k miles on various Guzi's and Ducatis and I have NEVER had one with inj that was better on gas mileage than the ones I've had with carbs. I'm not trying to be smart or anything but when you get into combustion design CR etc your not listening to me I'm comparing one Guzzi to another therefore same engine design. The question is Why does the V11 get worse mileage than a similar designed older Guzzi w/carbs or a newer Breva with a differnet model injection. And you can't play the weight card because they are similar with the Breva actually being the heaviest and as far as right hand action is concerned I ride all my bikes the same and I am caomparing my results on all bikes not somebody else that rides completely different than I do.
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My current RM is not my first Guzzi. I had an 02 LeMans in 04. In 07 I brought a left over 06 Breva 1100. I also used to own a SP1000 and an 80’s LeMans. The thing is my old Guzzi’s got 45~50 MPG with carbs. My Breva which was stock except for a Mistral slip-on and it got 45~50 MPG. My 02 LeMans I got rid of because on a really good day of highway riding it got 34MPG. My current RM thus far has gotten a best of 34MPG. While it runs great under all conditions now the mileage on these V11’s is pretty pathetic. So what’s the fix? Go to the later FI with a closed loop system. My own personal preference would be flat slide Keihins. These are every bit as reliable as any FI system and much easier to maintain and adjust. But how do you control the ignition and curve if you get rid of the ecu. It just annoys me that I get about the same mileage on a motorcycle that I get on my Fiat Abarth which is almost as much fun. Has anybody tried these alternatives and with what results.
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The bike has 43k miles on it. The fluid is at the level it should be but I have no idea what brand/weight fluid is in it. The bike has Motobits foot controls and nothing is binding. As far as the clutch dragging I'll have to wait for a friend to help me check that. The clutch does seem inconsistent sometimes as to the speed in which it engages, Seems like slow hydraulics. As for inside the box I have no idea what it looks like or what I should be looking for when I get in there. I plan on doing that in the next month or so and doing the recontouring of where the spring rest but I'm not sure what else to do in there.
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When I go to downshift sometimes it seems like the trans can't decide whether it wants to shift or not. Sometimes it just finds a false neutral and sometimes it goes down a gear but with a very slow meshing sound and finally finds the gear. This is obviously very disconcerting when running fast over back roads when you need it to be precise to go through a pretty fast turn. Does this have anything to do with the park pawl/spring or is it something else?
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What's the matter with making one with Aluminum tubing and heim ends?
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to have to hold off for a while to deal with some health issues
But while I'm here thanks Docc for the angle drive tip. My speedo works, still bobbles 5 mph but at least doesn't act like a tach like it did sometimes before. Thanks to this forum my RM no longer stalls when I come to a stop. My Motobits foot controls work great and numerous other niggling problems solved the easy way, through other peoples experience. I won't get much more riding in this year as I'm going through some Chemo/Radiation treatment up to Christmas. So hopefully next season I'll get back to some of these minor projects and..put a lot of miles on this thing
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What year and model valve covers are interchangeable with my RM valve covers? My covers need a repaint which I'm going to do but I'd like to have another set to paint a different color while I'm doing the other ones. I'm not real crazy about the red covers anyway so It'd be nice to trade off now and then
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Here's a link to the thread Speedo Needle Wobble showing a picture of the space that can develop in the lower bevel drive as its mounting pulls apart.
The two screws on the upper hold the bevel drive to the back of the speedometer and can only be seen with the instrument pulled out of its case.
Did you ever find out where that washer goes? I'm also having similar speedo problems. I have the gearbox angle drive apart and in addition to the problem areas you mention I notice the inner dia. of the brass bushing is pretty well worn. It's actually oval shaped and about .015 in out of round. I'm sure the would have something to do with needle wobble. My bike has 43k miles. I think it would probably be worthwhile for me to make a new sleeve for the bushing.
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I bought one from Moto International back in the Spring. It's an exact match to my stock angle drive (which lasted 36k miles). Unfortunately it cost $90...
Thx Tom, Moto intl. came thru. seemed to be the only one in the states. Have a Teo Lamers adapter if anyone wants ???????????
So, all you got from them is the screw on part that presses into the bevel drive? Fer-cryin'-out-loud! That's the only part that doesn't go bad!
I don't understand what your saying. Didn't he get the whole angle drive for $90??
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Well what is the actual final drive ratio? I've read 4.37 but then there's these primary reduction ratios of 1.6842 and secondary reduction ratios of 2.909 how do they figure in? because I've calculated a lot of different scenarios with a .8519 6th gear ration and a 25 in tall tire (170/60x17) and I'm not coming up with your numbers
OK I get it now. Looking at all your previous calculations the 1.6842 primary reduction times the 2.909 secondary reduction equals 4.89 which is the final drive ratio and the 4.37 that I found somewhere else on the net is bogus. Thanks
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Well what is the actual final drive ratio? I've read 4.37 but then there's these primary reduction ratios of 1.6842 and secondary reduction ratios of 2.909 how do they figure in? because I've calculated a lot of different scenarios with a .8519 6th gear ration and a 25 in tall tire (170/60x17) and I'm not coming up with your numbers
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Is there any reason I should use resistor plugs? interference with FI signals etc. Is the BS6ES the accepted plug? has anyone found any advantage with the BPR6EIX iridium plugs?
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Any updates, Motowarren? I'm looking at either an 8963 Penske, or possibly having Racetech redo the Sachs. Very curious to see how your Racetech re-do turns out. Thx.
Just got my Race-tech rebuilt shock installed yesterday and took it for a short ride. Seemed much better simply because i didn't think about the shock when I was riding. Usually the first thing I think about when I ride this bike is how bad the shock is. I hope to get a chance this weekend to give it a much more thorough evaluation. They rebuilt the Sachs, revalved it and put a different spring on. Then they preset everything before shipping for my weight which is 200lbs if I skip Pizza for a day or so. The price was $508 with shipping.
Aha, at last my RM is living up to expectation. After installing the RaceTech rebuilt/revalved rear shock it felt much better but just not right. Not balanced, not smooth. Finally I cranked the fork rebound and the compression adjusters all the way in. And cranked the steering damper 15 clicks in (tighter) and suddenly it feels like I always thought it should be, confident
.Works great for me your comfort zone may vary 
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I'm thinking the whole premise has been for the sensor to lose the heat (not soak it up, therefor: "low mass") and find it quickly (hence the close tolerance to the metal connection to the head. All to contribute to better "responsiveness,"
I don't know. This is all an experiment for me. It's running good right now so I'll run it like it is for a while to check gas mileage and hopefully test it in some different climate conditions.
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How much gap is there off the tip?
In the PDF drawing titled water sensor(a misnomer)at the bottom you can see the complete assembled pieces and you can see the measurement from the tip of the resistor to the bottom is 20mm. However along the sides at the resistor it is about 5mm on all sides and I figure that's where it would get its reading from. Still close enough to the engine that it shouldn't be losing any of the heat transferred from the engine...I think...
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it is Triumph this year ...Hope to see many Guzzis there .
Roberto.
Went down last year for the first time but went on my 500 Scarabeo. I'd love to go again this year depending on how bad my doctors treat me between now and then. Also would have to find somebody near by going down to ride with. I could ride the Guzzi down but the Scarabeo is my designated touring bike. Great weather protection, lots of storage space and will easily maintain a 70mph average down RT219 through Marlinton @60 mpg. Anybody from PA,MD, going?
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Well guys thanks for all the advice. I sent the shock out to race tech today. When they get it they'll look it over and call me and make some recommendations and we'll go from there. I'd love to have one of those good Ohlins but I'd have to park the bike the rest of the year to get one of them. I'll let ya'll know what Race-Tech says
Any updates, Motowarren? I'm looking at either an 8963 Penske, or possibly having Racetech redo the Sachs. Very curious to see how your Racetech re-do turns out. Thx.
Just got my Race-tech rebuilt shock installed yesterday and took it for a short ride. Seemed much better simply because i didn't think about the shock when I was riding. Usually the first thing I think about when I ride this bike is how bad the shock is. I hope to get a chance this weekend to give it a much more thorough evaluation. They rebuilt the Sachs, revalved it and put a different spring on. Then they preset everything before shipping for my weight which is 200lbs if I skip Pizza for a day or so. The price was $508 with shipping.
Suggestions on improving stock suspension.
in Technical Topics
Posted
I just had my RM rear shock done by Race Tech this summer and am very happy with it. Take it off send it to them along with info for your weight and riding style. They will rebuild it, revalve it, and install a custom spring for you. About $500 and two weeks. I may get a kit from them this winter for the front forks. Meanwhile I have the damping cranked the whole way in on both forks and the steering damper cranked 3/4 way in and it works pretty good for me YMMV