JBBenson
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Posts posted by JBBenson
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I couldn't find any "S" or "D" marks on the flywheel while doing my valves.
I found TDC using wooden knitting needles in the plug hole, but would like to know if anyone else has the same seemingly non-marked flywheels in their early V11....?
EDIT: never mind found them.....
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Just installed a set of 1" lowering foot pegs on my V11.
I wasn't having knee problems but always felt too "folded up" and my hips would get sore. I am 6' tall but have long legs. I always felt like I was perched "on top" of the V11, not "in" it.
What a difference. Much better body and leg position, less strain in general. After install (using the stock pin and spring), it took another 5 minutes to adjust the rear brake and shifter.
Worth doing if you are taller and never felt quite "right" on the V11.
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Be sure to check the VIN to see if there are any recalls open, and if the bike has had the work done. Any Piaggio dealer can look it up.
The transmission recall affected 680 bikes, of which only 564 were done, the last one being mine, done late last year, almost 10 years after the recall was issued.
It is now called "Flexible Hose" recall, and 8.8 hours are allotted to fix it.
Piaggio still honors the transmission recall, but they don't make it easy for dealers, and few dealers are capable of doing it.
I would be suspicious of early, low mileage bikes for this reason.
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I run the M4 slip ons, not sure what pipes I have since I just recently bought the bike. Pipes appear to be ceramic coated and are black. I get no lull or flat spots upon acceleration and get lots of compliments on how the bike sounds. Ill try to get a clip up soon.
Are you running the stock "crossover"?
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Wait till you try to get the tank back in!
I have a naked V11 too. My tank would get hung up on the rear bodywork, more when I try to get the tank back in, than when taking it out. I loosen the retaining bolts toward the front of the rear bodywork/cowling so I can wiggle it around as I wobble the tank back in.
Don't forget to reconnect the two tank vent lines! I have to do them when the front of the tank is already in place, with one hand holding up the rear of the tank and one hand fiddling around underneath.
Switching to a manual petcock, and shortening the fuel line a little helps clean up underneath, avoiding snags (I have an external fuel pump).
Once you do it a couple of times, it gets easier. The first time, though, it seemed like the tank could not possibly go back on (I think this is where some of the stories of "ethanol induced tank swelling" come from).
But it does........
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This ⇧
I was planning the same configuration. Good to know beforehand how it worked out.
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Yes, when I said "shut it down" I meant something like what 68C suggests, although I have never heard the term "plug chop". That is the correct procedure, or as close as you can get to that. I did that a lot on my Vespa's.
So, "Italian Tune-Up" then go for a "Plug Chop".
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They look a little oil fouled and maybe the engine was running hot, like at an idle.
The unevenness and glazing argues for an hot, idling engine, although I have read somewhere that the V11 engine always has uneven plug deposits.
Best is to give the warmed-up bike an "Italian Tune-Up", shut it down, and check the plugs.
That way, you get an accurate reading of the running condition of the engine.
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Docc:
When you write "setting the sag" are you referring to dropping the triple clamps a bit to lower the front end of the bike?
I have read anywhere from 3/8" to 1" drop. Where did you end up? (I have a 2000 V11)
Thanks.
J.
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danl, I would like the pattern if it is still available. PM sent.
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Thanks. Revised (version 2) photo so others may benefit:
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Can anybody tell me which relay is which? (2000 North American V11)
Stucchi vs. Mistral crossover
in Technical Topics
Posted
I went down the same rabbit hole when I got my V11.
I decided to first get the thing running as best as possible first before changing the exhaust. Having Todd @ Guzzitech remap the ECU really helped wake up the motor and get rid of the flat spot. Power curve and response is much better. Now I am dialing it in slowly: valve clearances, throttle balance, etc. It gets slowly better and better.
There is plenty to do on any used V11, here is a list of what I did before thinking about doing any exhaust work:
Did the transmission recall (at ProItalia, Glendale, CA)
Oil change, filter change
New air filter
New fuel filter (now installed correctly, not backwards like the stock one)
New manual petcock
Shortened fuel feed, cleaned up under tank breather hoses, etc. Added new breather hose.
Made new aluminum bracket for relays under seat
Cut down back fender
Changed original pawl spring
Replaced oil cooler brackets (which broke recently)
Ground down flexible grease gun connector to reach front U-joint. Greased front U-joint.
Found 90 degree needle point grease gun connector to reach back U-joint. Greased back U-joint.
Changed foot pegs to 1" lower ones from Knight Design. Adjust brake and shifter.
Changed clip ons to lower ones
Added 3/4 bikini fairing
Fiddled with suspension to get it where it felt good.
Remapped ECU per Todd @ Guzzitech
Did valves @ .006 INT and .008 EXT
Balanced throttles.
So, I want to drive the damn thing some before getting into exhaust. I want the ergos and the basic engineering (and some aesthetics) to be up to snuff before modifying.
But that's just me.
j.