KiloSjon Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Removed the rear wheel today to re-spray the shaft drive thing. Noticed that the "eye" of the rear shock is broken. For the long term, this is not ok and I will see how to fix it (may be a good excuse to fit Ohlins?) but is it a problem for the short term? The other thing I noticed is that the dust cap on the shaft is also broken, I will fix this with a anti dust rubber shrink hose. No problem, I guess? Thx, KiloSjon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grossohc Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Hi I wouldnt ride the bike with the shock in that condition , this has happened a couple of times now, I think it happened on Martin Barret,s bike, do a search and see what comes up (Is it a sachs boge shock) Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Barrett Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 This is the thread on my failed shock. About half the bottom eye eventually broke off mine. I'm just glad it didn't happen whilst I was riding not just taking it off the shop stand. I would go with fix it now and not chance it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 If the rear shock came undone from the mounting bar while riding at speed, wouldnt the bike sort of fold like an accordian? I really dont know if it would but I'm curious to know what other people think. Even if that wouldnt happen the shock is pretty near the rear wheel & the shaft. Neither of which I'd want the shock getting into at any speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 YIKES! In the (thankfully) rare category of potential "Catastrophic Guzzi Failures", this one has got to be among the front-runners. . . . Per previous posts on this, I don't know of one reported case where the Luigi's are known to've used grease on shock eyes, my own Sport being no exception. They're #1 on "THE LIST" of other items that I consider critically important to be kept lubed that likewise shipped "dry" from Mandello, and which dealers evidently routinely miss as part of dealer prep out of ignorance or plain negligence?? Lack of lube here has to be considered a most likely cause, or at least a contributing cause of failure. Thankfully KiloSjon and Martin weren't hurt badly, but IMHO they were both on thin ice. . . If the rear shock came undone from the mounting bar while riding at speed, wouldnt the bike sort of fold like an accordian? I really dont know if it would but I'm curious to know what other people think. Even if that wouldnt happen the shock is pretty near the rear wheel & the shaft. Neither of which I'd want the shock getting into at any speed. In response to your question, Richard, when the rear suspension components are disassembled and then put back together, it becomes fairly clear wot failure of a shock eye would mean. Having recently replaced my shock (and also having the swingarm out years ago for transmission warranty work), there's not much question about it. IMHO there are two inescapable outcomes of a shock eye failure on the road (despite Martin's and KiloSjon's good luck, an unevenly surfaced road is the most likely place for it to show up!), either of which would be catastrophic in nature alone , but which would be nearly certain to happen at the same time, regardless: 1. The sudden loss of suspension support of the swingarm would cause the chassis to drop full force onto the rear tire. Underway, the effects of instant locking of the rear wheel against the chassis would no doubt make the sudden loss of ~6" or so of rear ride height seem of little significance, relatively speaking. The ultimate outcome of riding THIS to an adrenaline-pumping, white-knuckle stop would of course depend on speed and road conditions, and also possibly to some degree on the rider's ability to handle the bike this way, and/or do the tarmac backstroke whilst possibly negotiating oncoming/overcoming traffic and rapidly approaching massive stationary objects such as light and power poles, trees, parked cars, etc.. . . 2. The abrupt increase of axial driveline angles resulting from above would take the U-joints far past their intended range of operation, locking the driveshaft and rear wheel (see #1. above). I'd be mighty thankful to've discovered it before the inevitable happened! Now this is just me, but you couldn't get me to ride a motorcycle known to have a cracked shock eye one meter. Come to think of it, you couldn't get me to ride a motorcycle known to have UNLUBED shock eyes one meter, either. BAA, TJM, & YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiloSjon Posted February 4, 2007 Author Share Posted February 4, 2007 ...ok I think I'm lucky to have seen this, could have been nasty.... I will repair it before riding again... (maybe on ebay look for a stock or Ohlins rear shock) Thanks for your answers! KiloSjon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeBenGuzzi Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 ...ok I think I'm lucky to have seen this, could have been nasty.... I will repair it before riding again... (maybe on ebay look for a stock or Ohlins rear shock) Thanks for your answers! KiloSjon or penske or white power works too I hear. any other options? I'm sure there are. I'd like to get a small list together of options for I may need to replace mine at some point in the near future I don't think I'll go with ohlins, just too much $$$ I think WP is a good bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 or penske or white power works too I hear. any other options? I'm sure there are. I'd like to get a small list together of options for I may need to replace mine at some point in the near future I don't think I'll go with ohlins, just too much $$$ I think WP is a good bet. Here is a list that I started: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...88&hl=sachs I think the Wilbers are about the best deal, but there are other good deals available. Prices I posted there are now outdated... FWIW I checked with Lindemann Engineering about getting a WP, and unfortunately they don't make one for our bike. Lindemann will sell you an Ohlins or a Penske. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admin Jaap Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 ...ok I think I'm lucky to have seen this, could have been nasty.... I will repair it before riding again... (maybe on ebay look for a stock or Ohlins rear shock) Thanks for your answers! KiloSjon Antonio will get you a good deal on Öhlins stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiloSjon Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Following up: My new Sachs rear shock arrived today, bought it on Ebay in Germany. Just curious: how can I prevent it happening again? Lubricating the "eyes" of the shock? With WD40 or other thin grease? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slug Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Following up: My new Sachs rear shock arrived today, bought it on Ebay in Germany. Just curious: how can I prevent it happening again? Lubricating the "eyes" of the shock? With WD40 or other thin grease? WD-40 would be useless. I'd use a heavier grease. I'm a big fan of marine-grade bearing grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Wot Slug said. WD-40 is based on something close to Stoddard solvent, similar to kerosene, with some aromatic whiz penetrants and foofy juice thrown in for its "magical" properties. IMHO, the "genius" of WD-40 is mostly its ability to convince consumers that it's some kinda Voodoo witch-doctor's "cure all". Why -- it does everything! The only thing missing from WD-40 is the "medicine show" that traditionally accompanies sales of bottles of snake-oil liniment, with a "Doctor recently returned from his magnificent tour of Europe and the Subcontinent" barking endless examples of its many miraculous wonders through a megaphone. Sales Genius Part II of WD-40 is they package it with a propellant in a spray can that costs more than the contents cost to mfgr. Car won't start? Give anything under the hood that looks suspicious a shot. Flat tire? Spots on windows? Horse got a broken leg? Fish not biting? Bad case o' piles? Erectile dysfunction? Wotever y'got that ain't doin' wot you want it to -- give 'er a shot! IMHO there's probably hundreds -- nay thousands -- of wonderful general purpose gorilla snot and rhino smegma products that would do the job here, but WD-40 ain't a candidate. Just get a good automotive grease of SOME KIND in there. Like Slug, I favor the ol' Enduro Rider's Friend, boat trailer wheel bearing grease (BTWBG ) on shock eyes and many other places on the Guzzi and my other moto, for among other properties, its resistance to water intrusion. One cartridge tube for a coupla bucks has lasted 30 years and counting. BAA, TJM & YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 What is Stoddard solvent? I remember the word from twenty something years ago in my Honda manual for cleaning a foam air filter. Also, Is it OK to mix marine or boat trailer grease with general purpose grease? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 I used silicone grease. Same stuff I used on the 'lectrics. Silicone does a nice job of keeping rubber supple and moisture/dust out. I would worry that a petroleum based grease would attack the rubber bit. We're not talking a high RPM/high heat part so no reason not to use the silicone (unless I am greatly mistaken, which I'm sure will be pointed out forthwith). And protect it from wet! Even with Edge's fine shield products installed the shock eye is subject to direct fire from the tire. I plan on fabbing up a bit of rubber to protect it from direct spray at least. cheers, Rj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 What is Stoddard solvent? You knew I'd have an answer, didn't you, Dave? Well, I hope you did! Stoddard solvent is a widely used, man-made organic solvent that comes from the refining of crude oil. It is a petroleum mixture made from distilled alkanes, cycloalkanes (naphthenes), and aromatic compounds. The chemicals in Stoddard solvent are similar to those in white spirits, which are also discussed in this profile. Stoddard solvent is commonly referred to as dry cleaning safety solvent, naphtha safety solvent, petroleum solvent, PD-680, varnoline, and spotting naphtha. It also goes by the registered trade names Texsolve S and Varsol 1. Stoddard solvent is used as a paint thinner, as a solvent in some types of photocopier toners, in some types of printing inks, in some adhesives, as a dry cleaning solvent, and as a general cleaner and degreaser. It is produced and used as a colorless, flammable liquid but will turn into a vapor (gas) at temperatures ranging from 150–200°C. Stoddard solvent smells and tastes like kerosene. You can smell it when the level in the air is about 0.34 parts of Stoddard solvent in a million parts of air (ppm) or 2 milligrams of Stoddard solvent per cubic meter of air (mg/m³). SOURCE: ATSDR (Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry) http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/phs79.html Is it OK to mix marine or boat trailer grease with general purpose grease? Yes. It’s an aluminum complex, Grade 2 general purpose heavy duty lubricant tested to ASTM Std. # D1743 in fresh and salt water. SOURCE: Grease gun cartridge in my workshop from Sta-Lube, Inc., Rancho Dominguez, CA, circa 1980. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now