CoreyL Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Hi All, I have a 2001 V11 Sport and have been running Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof synthetic gear oil in my rear differential housing. The bike has about 20,000 miles on it. The lube is leaking past the seals and dripping on the rear rim after having been in there for the last 12 months. I've checked the vent/fill hole and it is not plugged up. I am preparing to replace the seals but wonder if this is related to the lube, or would've happened even with the stock moly lube. Anyone else have a similar experience with the Redline stuff? Thanks in Advance, Corey Levenson San Antonio TX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coz1100 Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Are you talking about the seal on the right side of the box or the o-ring on the left? I just ask cuase mine has been leaking since my crash about 2 weeks ago and I'd kinda like to know whats up. Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MINNESOTALEMANS Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Hi All, I have a 2001 V11 Sport and have been running Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof synthetic gear oil in my rear differential housing. The bike has about 20,000 miles on it. The lube is leaking past the seals and dripping on the rear rim after having been in there for the last 12 months. I've checked the vent/fill hole and it is not plugged up. I am preparing to replace the seals but wonder if this is related to the lube, or would've happened even with the stock moly lube. Anyone else have a similar experience with the Redline stuff? Thanks in Advance, Corey Levenson San Antonio TX Its your cover seal in the diff housing leaking my had to be replaced along with the rear transmision seal at a little past 40k 02 lemans its better to have your dealer do it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nigelstephens Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 That's funny, I had mine apart today due to a leak. Its been leaking for the last year. Not a lot but enough to splatter the wheel. I think mine is different though. On examination I have a crack that extends from the lower edge towards the centre, radially. It doesn't get as far as the actual chamber. What it shows is that it has previously been dropped to the floor with the wheel and shock removed. Its exactly the right place. The metal is bent too. I thin the sealing face of the large flange (wheel side) is slightly out adjacent to the crack. This is where the leak appears to come from. I had it out today and found no problem internally. So I reassebled with a new gasket and some jointing (Blue Holmar) compound to close up any gap. Hopefully the extra thickness from the jointing compound is so small that it will not interfere with the gear meshing adjustment. So coz1100 you could check for damage like this, just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Hi All, I have a 2001 V11 Sport and have been running Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof synthetic gear oil in my rear differential housing. The bike has about 20,000 miles on it. The lube is leaking past the seals and dripping on the rear rim after having been in there for the last 12 months. I've checked the vent/fill hole and it is not plugged up. I am preparing to replace the seals but wonder if this is related to the lube, or would've happened even with the stock moly lube. Anyone else have a similar experience with the Redline stuff? Thanks in Advance, Corey Levenson San Antonio TX Corey, IMHO you more'n likely have a seal going out or something else going on. I'd inspect carefully for a tiny burr or scratch at the contact area of the seal lip. Many, including myself, have been running Redline Shockproof Heavy for years without any trace of a leak/weep/seep. I've used Redline synthetic in many vehicles for decades and hundreds of thousands of miles without anything o' the kind. Now from wot I understand, there can be circumstances in trans and bevel drives alike, when changing over from dino to synthetic, where a new leak/more like a weep/seep that shows up can go away again by going back to dino. To me, it makes sense that more slippery stuff could very well slip by where less slippery stuff doesn't. This is just hearsay, but I've heard it more than a few times. It more'n likely depends on many things -- age of the seal, location, kind of seal, etc. Somebody's bound to pick a nit with me for picking a nit with you on this , but before one o' our English Majors from Old Blighty gets to you -- by definition, a differential splits power to two driven wheels. Every Pro in the rear-end business as well as every anal-retentive knows it's an important distinction -- even though we all know exactly wot you mean. Guzzi's and all shafties have bevel drives, aka transmission drives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyL Posted March 8, 2007 Author Share Posted March 8, 2007 Thanks, all, for the replies. I think I just need to get in there and take a look-see at what I've got going on. The information I was looking for was whether or not it had anything to do with the Redline, and now I don't think it does. I noted last night that the owners manual I got with the bike specifies a synthetic AGIP lube for the rear diff. So, I think I'll replace whatever seal(s) need replacing and then refill with the Redline HD Shockproof stuff and see how she goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossoandy Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 Thanks, all, for the replies. I think I just need to get in there and take a look-see at what I've got going on. The information I was looking for was whether or not it had anything to do with the Redline, and now I don't think it does. I noted last night that the owners manual I got with the bike specifies a synthetic AGIP lube for the rear diff. So, I think I'll replace whatever seal(s) need replacing and then refill with the Redline HD Shockproof stuff and see how she goes. The oil seal behind the small bearing is a bitch to change,the O ring on the housing is easy. Its not yer pinion bearing failing causing a leak from the driveshaft input is it? Lots of pics on my pinion bearing thread and err someone elses! lol Don't despair it isnt as bad to do as it looks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coz1100 Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 okay, so nothing else to do to day anyways plus I need to repaint the bevel box. pulled the box off the bike and I've been trying to figure out, how the hell do you get the bearing out to get to the outer oil seal with out jacking up the thing? Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 okay, so nothing else to do to day anyways plus I need to repaint the bevel box. pulled the box off the bike and I've been trying to figure out, how the hell do you get the bearing out to get to the outer oil seal with out jacking up the thing? Z Mine leaked...I was using Redline Shockproof Light. But I don't think it was the lube that caused or promoted the leak. Regarding disassembly: The manual says, Unscrew the 8 screws “M” fastening the cover “N”; • Remove the cover “N”; • using the special extractor, remove the pinion together with bushing and bearings; • Remove the O ring “O” and the flange “P” under the cover; The thickness of the shim “P” is measured to obtain an optimal contact betwen the pinion “Q” and the toothed crown “R”; • Unscrew the gasket “S” and the bearing (cover side) “T”; • Remove the crown “R” and its bearings “U When I removed the cover N, the crown stayed with the cover. Fearing damaging anything, I took it to my mechanic who with rubber mallet, wacked on crown from the cover side (where the splines from the wheel engage) It popped out no problem and I simply replaced the 'gasket' "S", reassemled, relubed, and all is well (aside from the grease that now sprays out because I over-greased the splines. ) The gasket "S" did not need to be unscrewed, as was not threaded in. <_> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coz1100 Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 I had it all stripped down, I just couldn't get the stupid bearing out of the way of the seal. I got though. Alittle heat, the right size punch and a highly calbrated persuation device (aka hammer) and she popped right out. Actually I kinda felt stupid for asking Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossoandy Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 I had it all stripped down, I just couldn't get the stupid bearing out of the way of the seal. I got though. Alittle heat, the right size punch and a highly calbrated persuation device (aka hammer) and she popped right out. Actually I kinda felt stupid for asking Z Hope you did't drive out on the inner race!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 Actually I kinda felt stupid for asking Z But at least you did not drive 50 miles round trip to a mechanic who knocked it out in ten seconds. But it is better to be safe than sorry. After reading the manual, I was worried it was threaded in. I may have been better off without the manual Just remember there is no such thing as a dumb question, just a bunch of dumb things you can do to your bike with a hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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