Guest geno929 Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Can anyone help me. My 2000 V11 Sport with 7000 miles on it has started this bad habit of keeping the oil light on below 2000 RPM and goes off as soon as it revs above 2000 RPM. Runs excellent! Changed the oil and dropped the pan yesterday. Nothing seems out of place, No clag or shavings at all, clear oil that drained. Clean Screen too. Thought it might be a bit too full. Nah, right up to second line on dipstick. Doesn't come on when bike is cold, but as soon as it warms up, its back on. Does it in Neutral and all gears with clutch in. Hats to take to dealer for simple fix! HELP! Thank's for the help in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 make sure the old rubber o ring from the previous oil filter isnt still stuck up in there. Did you remove the filter when you took the pan off? If thats not what it is check the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Geno, from your post, it sounds like the symptoms showed up before the oil change. This is nothing to be careless with, and I'd go after it right away. There are high-risk potential implications (with low probabilities), but more'n likely, it's the usual thing -- the oil pressure sensor is going bad. IMHO it's one of those things where it generally makes sense to go after the low cost thing first, which also happens to be the most high probability suspect. It's that gizmo with the single wire coming out of it with a 21 mm hex, threaded into the rear of the timing chest on the upper left hand side of the motor, just above the timing sensor. The sender is rated at 2-5 PSI (.15-.35 Kg/cmq) -- SOURCE: Moto Guzzi Service Manual. I'd try the local auto parts place first and save y'erself the cost and potential lead-time from your typical Guzzi parts provider (I'm sure they won't mind, and you might well save ~10X the cost ). They're as common and universal as ticks on a junk yard dog, but make sure you get the rating and the thread pitch right. Probably pick one up for a few bucks, and Bob's y'er Uncle. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Even the Guzzi sender unit isn't too bad- MGCycle has one for $9.25. I do agree though that you ought to look into it. The consequences are just too high not to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geno929 Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 Thanks for the advice. I'll check it out this afternoon and let ya know what I find out! Geno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 Hey! Keith! Your Tonti's famous! It's got it's own slide show!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Hey! Keith! Your Tonti's famous! It's got it's own slide show!!!! Pete Hi Pete, I'd like to put a fitting under the dual banjo fitting next to the pressure switch to tap off oil pressure to a pressure guage. Alternatively drill and tap the mounting screw. Any suggestions? Is this port at full pump pressure, or restricted? thanks, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 John, Greg's got this one pretty well covered here, though he used wot I would have to assume is the preferred point for monitoring oil pressure -- he "plumbed in" under the sender. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;#entry92627 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 John, Greg's got this one pretty well covered here, though he used wot I would have to assume is the preferred point for monitoring oil pressure -- he "plumbed in" under the sender. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;#entry92627 I had seen that before, but had no luck finding the 12mm to 1/4NPT adapter. One thing I wondered about was Greg's comment about stopping the 12mm tap just as its widest point reached the adapter. Isn't the 12mm X 1.5 a straight thread? The sensor looks like a straight thread with a douty type seal in the picture. If so, stopping before the thread is fully formed could lead to preventing fully screwing in the sensor and jamming it before bottoming out to let the seal do its job. I suppose one could then apply enough torque to force it home. Cheers, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff 888 Posted July 22, 2007 Share Posted July 22, 2007 I had seen that before, but had no luck finding the 12mm to 1/4NPT adapter. One thing I wondered about was Greg's comment about stopping the 12mm tap just as its widest point reached the adapter. Isn't the 12mm X 1.5 a straight thread? The sensor looks like a straight thread with a douty type seal in the picture. If so, stopping before the thread is fully formed could lead to preventing fully screwing in the sensor and jamming it before bottoming out to let the seal do its job. I suppose one could then apply enough torque to force it home. Cheers, John My V11 oil light comes on at tickover once the engine's warm. Goes out as soon as I increase the revs. My dealer,Corsa Italiana,says it's nothing to worry about. So I don't worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted July 22, 2007 Share Posted July 22, 2007 My V11 oil light comes on at tickover once the engine's warm. Goes out as soon as I increase the revs. My dealer,Corsa Italiana,says it's nothing to worry about. So I don't worry about it. (Gurgle!) The pressure sender switch operates at about 2PSI. If the light is on either the switch is stuffed, (Cheap and easy to fix.) or there is a major issue with pressure loss. What speed is your engine ticking over at? If your oil light is coming on at 1200RPM, (Which is what the tickover should be.) I'd DEFINITELY say investigate further. While standard big end shells are cheap undersizes aren't and neither are mains. Stripping and rebuilding a motor and grinding the crank doesn't come cheap either. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 My V11 oil light comes on at tickover once the engine's warm. Goes out as soon as I increase the revs. My dealer,Corsa Italiana,says it's nothing to worry about. So I don't worry about it. I see the same on all my Guzzis. The light is on on idle and goes immediately out as I touch the throttle. Especially on hot days. My bikes idle at about 1050 and lower. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 I see the same on all my Guzzis. The light is on on idle and goes immediately out as I touch the throttle. Especially on hot days. My bikes idle at about 1050 and lower. Hubert Hubert. the lower your engine speed the lower the oil pump speed and the lower it's delivery. Do the maths if you wish but remember that light conmes on at 2PSI. You're not going to get much protection against boundary lubtrication with sub-2PSI. Apart from the aspect of spline protection by having a higher idle speed you'll also ensure better oil supply and better valve cooling at low engine speeds with a higer idle, ie, low load, situation. I know that people like a really low idle for *cool* factor but from a mechanical standpoint it ain't a good thing. While it's anybody's own choice how they run their engines low idle speeds and ignoring oil warning lights doesn't really register on my radar as particularly wise practice. Sure, if the oil light flickers at idle? swap the sender before you panic. But if that doesn't fix it I would definitely go in further and find the source of the problem. Using a 10/40 oil won't help here in hot weather. IMHO in a solid lifter motor using such a lightweight oil is un-neccessary if not downright wrong. YOMV. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 I had seen that before, but had no luck finding the 12mm to 1/4NPT adapter. One thing I wondered about was Greg's comment about stopping the 12mm tap just as its widest point reached the adapter. Isn't the 12mm X 1.5 a straight thread? The sensor looks like a straight thread with a douty type seal in the picture. If so, stopping before the thread is fully formed could lead to preventing fully screwing in the sensor and jamming it before bottoming out to let the seal do its job. I suppose one could then apply enough torque to force it home. Cheers, John The thread is striaght; the tap tapers, unless it's a bottoming tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 The thread is striaght; the tap tapers, unless it's a bottoming tap. Understood. So did you run a bottoming tap in far enough to avoid having to jam the sensor in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now