Geoff 888 Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Can anyone help me. My 2000 V11 Sport with 7000 miles on it has started this bad habit of keeping the oil light on below 2000 RPM and goes off as soon as it revs above 2000 RPM. Runs excellent! Changed the oil and dropped the pan yesterday. Nothing seems out of place, No clag or shavings at all, clear oil that drained. Clean Screen too. Thought it might be a bit too full. Nah, right up to second line on dipstick. Doesn't come on when bike is cold, but as soon as it warms up, its back on. Does it in Neutral and all gears with clutch in. Hats to take to dealer for simple fix! HELP! Thank's for the help in advance. Just had the problem solved at Corsa Italiana. Faulty oil pressure switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geno929 Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Hi Guys and thank's for all the good advice. I tried to find the oil pressure sensor at many auto parts stores, but no luck. But, what I did find was the dealer wanted 25 bucks for the part! Told him to F@%$ off (not really) and went searching on the web. Found it! Yeah! Check out this site www.mgcycle.com Had exactly what I needed and only $9.25. Fantastic. BTW: My dealer (Donaldsons in St.Louis) wasn't that bothered by the light coming at idle either. Said that warm weather and 10W-40 might be the problem. I did increase idle up to 1250 and light still acts the same. The sensor is on the way. I'll tell ya the results when it gets here next week! Geno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Hah! If you want to have some fun, call up and ask how much they want for a rear brake light pressure switch. Gadzukes! Ya better be sitting down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Put in a quality 20/50 such as Redline. At Moto Intl. we have those switches for $9.00. It does pay to shop around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 As others have said some of the *official* prices are barking mad. In the past I think this was a deliberate plan to encourage an active aftermarket as that way Guzzi didn't have to carry too much stock in their small and primitive factory in Mandello. With the newer models I dunno but stuff like oil pressure switches which are universal to all models such pricing s clearly abberent and any specialist/enthusiast dealer is going to source them from a supplier other than the factory/importer. Rick and Gordon are just one of a number of good suppliers in the USA and you can order stuff in from places in Europe too with little effort now the internet is so all pervasive. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 ..... BTW: My dealer (Donaldsons in St.Louis) wasn't that bothered by the light coming at idle either. Said that warm weather and 10W-40 might be the problem...... Seems as if your dealer just hasn't the right believe. Go and show him the "Soft Cushion" thread and he'll see the light. You must feel the pain physically when you close the throttle and think of all the splines beeing tortured by your misbehaving. Then you are on the right way. Show him the solution with the perforated cushions and he'll perfectly understand what sort of solution a Guzzi owner wants, a Guzzi owner needs for his problems and he'll probably find a solution for this pressure thing as well. I could think of a temperature compensated 32 bit PIC solution for instance. Something like that... Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 I had seen that before, but had no luck finding the 12mm to 1/4NPT adapter. One thing I wondered about was Greg's comment about stopping the 12mm tap just as its widest point reached the adapter. Isn't the 12mm X 1.5 a straight thread? The sensor looks like a straight thread with a douty type seal in the picture. If so, stopping before the thread is fully formed could lead to preventing fully screwing in the sensor and jamming it before bottoming out to let the seal do its job. I suppose one could then apply enough torque to force it home. Cheers, John VDO used to offer metric to NPT adapters. Or if you PM me your address I'll make one up outa brass for ya. Compulsive proof readers and gotta find fault even if it isn't there types please dis-regard this posting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 VDO used to offer metric to NPT adapters. Or if you PM me your address I'll make one up outa brass for ya. Compulsive proof readers and gotta find fault even if it isn't there types please dis-regard this posting Hi Gary, Your mailbox is full, hence this message. Thanks for the kind offer to make up the pressure adapter. I've already designed up and starting making a mounting bracket for the pressure gauge and port adapter to go with it. I'm still interested in the brass holder for the temperature sensor. Today, I found some anti-seize grease with a claimed high copper content at a Napa store. It's by Permatex. If I find out the copper content, I'll let you know what I learn. best, John PS, the Permatex "Copper" anti seize contains Lithium Grease and 15-25% copper. It ought to be a decent thermal conductor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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