Guest MARK MCGLEISH Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 Just got a 2005 V11 Scura. Went to Ireland last weekend for the Ulster Grans Prix (bike racing), over 200 miles in rain and dry, ran well. Started her up last night and took her for a run today. Big problems !. Bike running very rough at all rpms, speeds and gears. She cuts out when revs drop and will not idle. Only 3000 miles on clock in total and dealer serviced her at 2600 approx. Hoping I haven't done the wrong thing choosing a "rare piece of Italian exotica" as the dealer called it. Has anyone experienced this or can anyone offer any advice. PS the tank is 3/4 full. Love the bike otherwise ! Cheers Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 The two simplest things: 1) open the tank and check for a vacuum (suck) 2)Look at the throttle body rubber intakes for any kind of separation (loose or cracked). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MARK MCGLEISH Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 The two simplest things: 1) open the tank and check for a vacuum (suck) 2)Look at the throttle body rubber intakes for any kind of separation (loose or cracked). Thanks. No vacuum. Trying to get a copy of a workshop manual on the net to ID the throttle body intakes so that I can check these. Have you had this problem or know anyone else that has ? Cheers Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 Here is a simple PDF manual http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mot...orkshop_manuals Elsewhere there is an HTML one that may be a little better resolution, but more outdated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grossohc Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 Hi Mark check the Q.D.s from the tank to the fuel lines are properly mated, also check every electrical connection apart from that i havent a clue Best of luck. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeve Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 Just got a 2005 V11 Scura. Went to Ireland last weekend for the Ulster Grans Prix (bike racing), over 200 miles in rain and dry, ran well. Started her up last night and took her for a run today. Big problems !. Bike running very rough at all rpms, speeds and gears. She cuts out when revs drop and will not idle. Only 3000 miles on clock in total and dealer serviced her at 2600 approx. Hoping I haven't done the wrong thing choosing a "rare piece of Italian exotica" as the dealer called it. Has anyone experienced this or can anyone offer any advice. PS the tank is 3/4 full. Love the bike otherwise ! Cheers Mark Bike running fine dry & then bad all over after exposure to the wet screams "electrical gremlins!" to me; take all connections apart, de-oxidize or spray w/ WD40*, reconnect. Oh yeah, check your battery's ground connection first; if that's worked loose, it will produce all the symptoms you describe and is a quick & easy fix compared to tearing apart all the connections if that's the culprit... Best o' luck! * - WD40 is not a lubricant; it's basically fish-oil in a light solvent, developed to deal w/ condensation problems in delicate electrical connections. It was the 40th formulation of a water-dispersal agent tested; it worked, hence "WD40." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 * - WD40 is not a lubricant; it's basically fish-oil in a light solvent, developed to deal w/ condensation problems in delicate electrical connections. It was the 40th formulation of a water-dispersal agent tested; it worked, hence "WD40." Oh, joy. Another opportunity to vent my spleen on WD-40. Correctamundo on the "not a lubricant" remark, Skeeve. WD-40 is a "local" company to me, one that I have followed as one of those "gazelle" stocks that sprang up out o' obscurity decades back. I know them well and still have business at Director level in the company (as we speak). The "fish oil" rumor is one that flourished for years and still persists. No fish oils in the stuff wotsoever. This is a 100% unfounded Old Wive's Tale, of which there are many. The material itself is essentially a "slightly" unique petroleum distillate formulation very similar to Stoddard Solvent, which is similar to common laundry dry-cleaning solvent, which is similar to kerosene, with a trace or two of "industry secret" aromatic penetrating oils thrown in. WD-40 had the brilliance to come up with Sales & Marketing well-matched to packaging in a handy product where the raw material costs to manufacture the stuff are extremely low. In fact, material costs (including the spray can propellant) are a tiny fraction of the costs of packaging and distribution. Markup over material cost is in the thousands of percent, as I recall. This is wot is commonly referred to today as "Pure Marketing Genius". I truly believe that most people who buy this stuff haven't the faintest idea wot it is, or how best to use it. Now if y'er peddling the stuff, who cares, as long as the retailers can't keep it on the shelf? Genius, I tell you. I've seen people use it as "holy water" in an attempt to exorcise electro-mechanical demons by aimlessly spraying it under the hood of their car when it won't start. It gets used as anything from a magic potion to snake oil liniment, from window cleaner to fishing lures, to sunburn treatment, to topical lotion for mosquito bites. Wot amazes me the most is to see home mechanic types using it as a "lubricant" in places where a real lubricant such as common grease or oil is called for, when in fact, as an easy, low-effort alternative to the usual chore of disassembly for proper lubrication, a second or two blast from the WD-40 spray can seems to stop a sorely dry joint from squeaking -- for the moment. O' course, wot they're invariably doing is flushing any remaining grease or lube out of the joint! As soon as the solvent dries and the trace penetrating oils are consumed (this usually occurs shortly after instantly), the joint is now drier than ever, and it resumes its tortured metal-on-metal grinding with renewed vigor. . .whereupon it gets progressively larger shots of the magical mystery potion. . . You've just gotta admire the success of the product and the entire company, which has built entirely new spin-off markets with dozens of other products (including the acquisition of the marketing rights to 3-1n-1 Oil, among others) around their Flagship Product! BTW -- the 40th formulation in the development stage as mentioned above was the one where they figured out the lowest-cost combination of trace additives to the dirt-cheap base solvent that smelled good enough so apparently not only the US Navy (the original target customer) but commercial market consumers (including housewives) would embrace the stuff as today's most widely accepted household magical cure-all! Another rumor has it that there are already generations of people in trailer parks all across the fruited plain using it for both after-shave and erectile dysfunction. BTW (Part II) -- from another fairly recent thread on this subject: No professional electronics Tech worth his salt would ever get WD40 anywhere near any kind of electrical/electronic component. The long-term effects of WD40 on electrical contacts are well known, generally very detrimental to electrical/electronic gear, and it's never recommended by Pro's. Electricians and electronic Techs use stuff specifically designed for the task, such as Caig DeoxIT: http://www.caig.com/. NOTE: Caig Laboratories is located within miles of where I live, but I have NO interests in, or associations with the company. It's just one example of many providers of contact cleaner. I've used many kinds of contact cleaners for years, primarily CRC: http://www.crcindustries.com/catalog/image...asers/02130.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zen_kick Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 Had similar experience with a 2004 Ballabio. At about 1500mi started running rough, wouldn't pull any more etc. Thought it was heat/vaccum related as it initially seemed to improve after letting the bike sit overnight or in shade to cool. Solution didn't last long, resetting chip didn't have an effect either. Turns out fuel pump was bad. Replaced and all is well again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeV11 Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 Oh, joy. Another opportunity to vent my spleen on WD-40. Dude, you need a girlfriend! LOL Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 Dude, you need a girlfriend! LOL Joe In my experience, girlfriends generally don't take kindly to ventings of my spleen. Not that this has been known to stop me. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouiji Veck Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 Mark, 2 guarantees. 1.) It's something stupid 2.) You've come to the right place. Someone here will nail it. In the mean time chill and peruse/ search for relative posts. Relays and electrical connectors are the usual suspects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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