Tracey Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Short Intro... Last summer (95 deg. F day) communting home from work I was stuck in trafic from a crash. You know, Idel a few seconds then roll ahead a few seconds... This went on for well over an hour, I then was able to exit the 4 lane and start all over again on a 2 lane. Another hour of this and me and the bike were pretty hot. I pulled off and let her cool a bit then started again. I finnaly got my turn at the stop sign and the LeMans died... Battery was hot and she wouldn't crank, luckly a slight down hill and I could "bump start". Finally free and rolling again the bike cooled down and ran well again. Since then oil leaks have started, I think from the engine case and left cyclinder base gasket. I've been told that this gasket will leak if the cyclinder head bolts come off spec. for torque. I plan to check torque and set valves, full winter time service, ect. ect. Should I also order new head and cyclinder base gaskets now? Or is it possible that setting the correct torque will stop the "oil weep"? What say you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Tracy, IMHO your thoughts are good ones, and well-founded. But I'd be dead-set against replacing base and/or cylinder head gaskets unless you've got clear evidence of blown gaskets. It should be very easy to tell. I suspect you're OK, and that a proper re-torque is in order. These motors are amazingly tolerant of heat, as long as they get some forward movement for air flow. They're substantially over-finned, and further protected by the thermo-valve operated oil cooler. Per many previous posts on the topic, when re-torquing the heads, don't omit the "buried" 10 mm socket-head nuts on the inboard studs of each cylinder, under the rocker spindles, and beneath the oil gallery "covers". Yes, the rocker spindles need to come out for access, and be very careful to get all the springs and washers back on the rocker spindles in the order they came out. When I retorqued my heads, several nuts on both cylinders were substantially out o' spec. Have fun, and I bet Pete's barnyard full o' Bunyips you'll get a good result from a proper re-torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 I cant seem to find the old thread on how to re torque the head bolts. I remember that it had good clear instructions & had the torque settings for the bolts. Could someone please post a link to that thread here? Tyvm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=611 Disregard the first (yahoo) link, go for the second post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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