dabore84 Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 This dip is in addition to the "normal" hole in the powerband from 3-4.5k rpm? Or just where your tachometer [each gauge package reading different, as they aren't precision instruments] shows the standard dip? Enquiring minds want to know! Not exactly, the dip is really from about stationary to max 3k rpm. A little above 3k rpm runs really smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest frankdugo Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 notice you say there is a lambda sensor. don't have them on us or nz models.i assume they are on the exhaust pipe?on us cars they are called oxygen sensors. it is possible to remove it--[them] and spray with carburetor cleaner,it might help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabore84 Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 notice you say there is a lambda sensor. don't have them on us or nz models.i assume they are on the exhaust pipe?on us cars they are called oxygen sensors. it is possible to remove it--[them] and spray with carburetor cleaner,it might help I am installing a new handlebar, opportunity to clean the sensor. PS no reply from the dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 There is NO cleaning abilities to a oxygen (lambda) sensor . The only thing you can do to test these is to tap into the sensor with a DVOM to test the switching voltage swing from 150 -800 mv. This should swing quickly and not staying low or high. Visual inspecting the sensor will not tell you much. I do not know the cost of these sensors for bikes, automotive oxygen sensor cost from $40-$400. If they're not too expensive it would not be a bad "normal maintenance" item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desdinova Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 I haven't been on the forums in awhile, but this thread caught my eye. I'm surprised no one has mentioned this, but check your intake manifold. Especially the rubber bits. If you have the hose that connects the left and right side, check it. AN intermittent air leak will wreak havok on your day. I had a VERY similar problem as you with the "ok" running, but as soon as I changed anything, it went from "ok" to "WTF!!!!!" When I finally took a step-by-step look at things, one of my carbs wasn't fully seated into the intake. I bought a cheapo set of merc tubes... best $35.00 I've spent on a tool. I'm guessing my blog of my tuning procedure is still around, as well as others. It's a lot easier to do than it is to write about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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