dhansen Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Hi All. With the rear end of my V11 apart for tire and maintenance I've been checking things out. My latest discovery is some play in the connection between the rear u-joint and the input shaft on the bevel box. If I hold the box and push/pull on the driveshaft I can see the rear u-joint moving about .060 inches in and out on the shaft. (The input shaft does not move). The two allen bolts that should be clamping the u-joint to the shaft are very tight. I assume the two allen bolts straddle the shaft and effectively lock the two parts together........... even if there is some play. Is this normal? Dennis (Also posted on Wildgoose) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Can you post a pic ? Is the joint loose ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Mine does that too, Dennis. It's just the U-joint sliding a little on the shaft splines. Not to worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhansen Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 Mine does that too, Dennis. It's just the U-joint sliding a little on the shaft splines. Not to worry. Great, thanks Ratch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhansen Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 Can you post a pic ? Is the joint loose ? Hey GS. The u-joint itself is tight. The movement I see is between the aft end of the u-joint and the input shaft from the bevel box The (poor) photo below shows one of the two allen bolts that when tight, pinch the back end of the joint onto the input shaft. Even though they are pretty 'honkin tight, they still don't lock the u-joint to the shaft. I suspect the input shaft has a clearance groove in it that allows the two allen bolts to pass through and in turn, lock the u-j in place on the shaft nut but still allow it to move a slight amount of movement. (The bevel box is off of the bike. Not sure you'd ever find this with it on the bike). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcbooghs Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 These bolts should be torqued to 4 kgs. Even then you can still slide it off it's place when bevelbox uninstalled. I always wondered why they made it with 2 securing bolts?! I've been riding like this for 13 years now. So, just to confirm ratchet, nothing to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhansen Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 These bolts should be torqued to 4 kgs. Even then you can still slide it off it's place when bevelbox uninstalled. I always wondered why they made it with 2 securing bolts?!I've been riding like this for 13 years now. So, just to confirm ratchet, nothing to worry about. Thanks JC! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Just a data point: I pulled the rear of my V11 apart the other day. One of the rear u-joint crosses is stiff, but there's no play at the coupling. Solid as can be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhansen Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 Just a data point: I pulled the rear of my V11 apart the other day. One of the rear u-joint crosses is stiff, but there's no play at the coupling. Solid as can be. Maybe that is why the cross is stiff! Since we are on the downhill side of the riding season here, I'm looking to put things back together rather than tear it apart any further. I think it would be a good winter project to look a little deeper and see what goes on inside the coupling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhansen Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 Just a data point: I pulled the rear of my V11 apart the other day. One of the rear u-joint crosses is stiff, but there's no play at the coupling. Solid as can be. I greased the u-joints today Greg and both of them have one cross that offers a little more resistance to movement. Can't remember, have you come up with a solution to changing them out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 No solution yet. Still looking for the right crosses. On mine and every other one I've examined, the caps that are installed into the yokes on the main shaft are the stiff ones at each end. Same on yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhansen Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 No solution yet. Still looking for the right crosses. On mine and every other one I've examined, the caps that are installed into the yokes on the main shaft are the stiff ones at each end. Same on yours? Arrrggg............... just put it back together 15 minutes ago and I really didn't note which ones were tight. This is the first time I've had mine apart and I'm too busy making sure I get all the big details right to think about the finer details. Sorry! Next time I promise to check it out and note which side is tight. I want to say I remember them being tight in the same cross but I just can't swear to it. It feels SO GOOD to be digging into this machine and learning what it is all about PLUS gaining the peace of mind in knowing that everything is fresh and well lubed. New tire, wheel bearings and brake pads along with drilled and greased cush drive. Everything else lubed as required. Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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