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Dimitris needs help


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First of all I would like to thank Slavek for his contribution.

 

As I was riding suddenly the motorbike stopped running. A more experienced friend of mine came over, and we started checking the bike. Turning the key to ON position I could not hear the Fuel Pump.

We connected with a wire the battery with the fuel pump (+ to +) and we heard the fuel pump working. So...the problem is not the pump. The pump seems to work but if I am right No Signal is sent to the pump, after I turn the key to ON position.

1) we checked the relays. We changed position of all the relays. Nothing changed.

2) As I was pressing the kill-switch button, I could hear this sound (tic-tac) from the relays, which showed me (if I am not wrong) that the relays, and the kill-switch DO work.

3) I removed the + pole from the battery and repositioned it : No change

4) then we checked the spark plugs. NO spark to the left, nor to the right spark plug. WhY?

5) Checked the fuses. They seem right. I don't know yet if there is any problem (short circuit?) under the fusebox...

 

 

The only symptom I can remember (before the above incident) is that the last days the bike could not hold its idle steadily, and sometimes the engine stalled- if that could be related to this problem...?)

 

So: No signal to fuel pump,

No spark to both spark plugs.

 

PLEASE HELP....

 

 

Thank you

Dimitris

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To avoid confusion: note that this is an 1100 Sport, not a V11. It has no 30A fuse and it has a WM1.6 ECU. Other than that it's more or less the same as a V11.

 

Dimitri, just concentrate on the pump and ignore spark. As long as the power relay (that drives the pump) don't engage, the spark and injectors are also without power.

 

Since your pump doesn't prime we can ignore the crank sensor. You already swapped relays and checked fuses so there is not much left.

 

One possibility is some internal fault in the ECU but let's hope that's not it. You should try the ECU diagnostics: The ECU will send some "morse code" blinks to the diagnostic LED. This might tell us some details but foremost it will tell us if the ECU is alive and kickin' or stone dead.

 

If you remove the power relay and just listen to the ECU relay, it should NOT click (release) immediately when you turn off power or use the emergency switch, but 15 seconds later. If it releases immediately, it's unfortunately an indication of a bad ECU. But there are other possibilities of course. Like a bad relay socket, that is not unusual.

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One possibility is some internal fault in the ECU but let's hope that's not it. You should try the ECU diagnostics: The ECU will send some "morse code" blinks to the diagnostic LED. This might tell us some details but foremost it will tell us if the ECU is alive and kickin' or stone dead. Do I need a Diagnostic Tool for that? If yes, which one?

If you remove the power relay and just listen to the ECU relay, it should NOT click (release) immediately when you turn off power or use the emergency switch, but 15 seconds later. If it releases immediately, it's unfortunately an indication of a bad ECU. But there are other possibilities of course. Like a bad relay socket, that is not unusual. (suppose, this is a way to exclude a ECU problem, when not having a diagnostic tool?)

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For ECU diagnostics, all you need is the Workshop Handbook. I think you already have it, otherwise there is a PDF linked from my signature. In short, you connect a diagnostic plug that is supposed to be strapped to the harness under your passenger seat, to the diagnostic connector located nearby, and turn on ignition. The LED located near the fuses will blink in sequences described in the WHB and that can tell various problems (like "error on left injector"). In this very case we're mostly interested in if it will talk at all...

 

Yes, my other rant was just another (simpler and not as good) way to check if the ECU is "alive". I wrote that because your description about the kill switch worries me a little. If the ECU relay clicks immediately, your ECU does not seem to be in control. Hopefully that does not mean it's brain dead.

 

Good luck!

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raz, thank you!

 

I will check it as soon as possible.

 

If the led doesn't blink, or if the click is heard immediately, and if the problem is not the relay socket, which means that it an ECU fault, then what are my options?

 

 

 

 

P.S: I had mounted the electrical switch of the V11's side stand.

To check if the electrical switch was working properly I raised the stand and with my finger pressed the button of the switch. When I pressed the button I heard the "click" from the relays. The click was heard immediately. Does it mean something?

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Guest ratchethack
To check if the electrical switch was working properly I raised the stand and with my finger pressed the button of the switch. When I pressed the button I heard the "click" from the relays. The click was heard immediately. Does it mean something?

Good check, Dimitris. It means your stand switch is working properly, and the switch wiring up to the relay(s), and the relay socket(s) you mentioned are functioning. It DOES NOT necessarily mean the relay(s) you heard click are working properly.

 

By following the age-old wisdom of checking the easiest & least expensive things first, one thing to check is continuity through the fuses. They can LOOK intact, but still be fried. This one had me stumped for awhile a few years back. <_<

 

Good luck. B)

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+1 that is a good idea. And with a volt meter or test light you can check voltage in relay sockets too and follow the trace. Like, does the power relay socket provide 12V to the contacts?

 

If this turns out to be a fried ECU (which is really the worst scenario among many) you should be able to find one on eBay or buy a My16M from Cliff Jefferies.

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Guys! Thank you all for your help. Yes! It was the fuel pump fuse, which seemed to be OK, but when we checked it with the voltmeter.....the problem appeared.

1100 sport back on the streets!

 

:D oofff!

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