docc Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 One of the yellow wires has broken off the stator. Can I just remove the stator by loosening the collar without removing the rotor held onto the crank end? Aren't there some springs and brushes in there, or no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 One of the yellow wires has broken off the stator. Can I just remove the stator by loosening the collar without removing the rotor held onto the crank end? Aren't there some springs and brushes in there, or no? No springs or brushes, Docc. (BTDT) The stator comes straight off, but the serivce manual recommends keeping the rotor in orientation with the stator to avoid demagnetization, so they're best removed together. NOTE: To remove the stator, it will be necessary to cut a zip tie that secures the wires. If you don't carefully mark the spot where this zip tie is located, it's a bear and a half getting the wires back in there exactly in the correct spot, where they won't be sawed into by the rotor. Don't ask how I learned this. . . (No mayhem in my case, but it was waaaaaay too close for comfort). . . NOTE (Part II): If you have a mechanical self-winder watch, leave it in a safe place far away from the rotor. . . (No mayhem in my case here either, but I nearly forgot). NOTE (Part III): IIRC, depending on how you want to secure the crank from rotating, with some ingenuity, you can position a bolt as a stop for both removing the alternator nut and for torquing it (80 Nm). Thinking again, I may be thinking of the camchain sprocket nut, which you won't be dealing with. You can secure the crank nicely without risk of damage to the flywheel teeth by having an assistant hold a large flat blade screwdriver against it through the inspection hole. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 NOTE: To remove the stator, it will be necessary to cut a zip tie that secures the wires. If you don't carefully mark the spot where this zip tie is located, it's a bear and a half getting the wires back in there exactly in the correct spot, where they won't be sawed into by the rotor. Why would you need to cut it? I've had it off a couple of times and never cut it. But it sure is a close fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 Why would you need to cut it? I've had it off a couple of times and never cut it. But it sure is a close fit. Hard to remember exactly, Raz. It's been 2 years since I replaced the cam chain tensioner. But on mine I remember trying to find any way to avoid cutting the zip-tie, and there was absolutely no leaving it alone if the stator was coming off. Might well be a different situation on the older Sport. EDIT: It just came back to me. With the tank on the bike, I couldn't locate the connectors at the harness end of the wires, and needed more length on the wires than was available to get the stator off over the crank nose. The only way to do this without taking off the tank and diving into the harness was to gain just enough free length on the wires by cutting the zip tie. FWIW, I've got the tank off now. The bullet connectors I was looking for are zip-tied up against the left-hand frame gusset on the forward frame sub-ass'y. Knowing where they are, it might be possible to disconnect them there without having the tank off. This would eliminate the clearance challenge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 I didn't see the demagnetizing note in the manual. In fact, I didn't see the disassembly sequence at all. So, the stator did come off easily. (My harness has been previously, er, groomed.) I repaired the open with a solid solder job, but upon reinstallation the alternator only throws 2.0 vAC. Demagnetized, or toast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 I'd be surprised if it's demagnetized. What resistance do you measure between yellows? And between one yellow and the ground (collar)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 I've seen those alternators left unpaired for years without demagnetizing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 I'll recheck the resistances now that it's back together and I've cleaned it up. Before removal, it was open to ground and 0.25 Ohms between them. The manual says it should be over 10MOhms to ground. "Open" is more than 10MOhms, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 Resistance between the yellow wires is 0.1 Ohm and the there is no continuity to ground. I suppose the stator is played up. Euro Moto Electrics has it for $235 US. The new stator will develop a "relationship" with my existing rotor? I guess there is still no 450 watt upgrade available for the V11 motor without the tapered shaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 The 450-watt upgrade is the same 350w alternator you already have. Why they call it a 450-watter I do not know. The magnets are in the rotor and should tickle your new stator well enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Resistance between the yellow wires is 0.1 Ohm and the there is no continuity to ground. Those figures are good so I'll throw in this in case you measured with a digital meter: I have a hunch that some digital volt meters are not happy at all about frequencies other than 50 and 60 Hz. This could lead to a misreading. I think I read about one such case on a Guzzi although the misreading was at higher RPM than idle. If you think this makes any sense whatsoever you could try wiring everything up (if you didn't already) and measure DC at battery when charging instead. The good old analog meters are... good and old And in some cases they are much better. I actually bought one recently before they become unobtainable. I also have a vinyl turntable somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottS Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Those figures are good so I'll throw in this in case you measured with a digital meter: I have a hunch that some digital volt meters are not happy at all about frequencies other than 50 and 60 Hz. This could lead to a misreading. I think I read about one such case on a Guzzi although the misreading was at higher RPM than idle. If you think this makes any sense whatsoever you could try wiring everything up (if you didn't already) and measure DC at battery when charging instead. The good old analog meters are... good and old And in some cases they are much better. I actually bought one recently before they become unobtainable. I also have a vinyl turntable somewhere yes, my fancy new digital VOM is unusable. I have reverted back to the good ole analog one. I know I am the problem, but I can never tell what the heck the digital one is trying to tell me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 I'm guessing the AC frequency changes with RPM. Yet, isn't the 0.1 Ohm resistance outside the expected range of 0.2-0.3? Unfortunately the battery light stays on on start-up. I'll look again at the running voltage, but it does not appear to be charging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 No multimeter for home use can be trusted to tell 0.1 ohms from 0.2 so it looked good to me. It probably is broken anyway but it's a cheap test so you don't end up with a spare alternator and the need of a regulator or something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 DCv: Key on - 12.62 Running (any RPM) - 11.95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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