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brake line connection


df2

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Hi, can the angle of the brake line connection to the control be changed without removing the brake line or gushing brake fluid all over the place? And Without twisting the entire control, so can it be adjusted at the attach point?

 

Mine are making the brake line go right over the fork tubes where my new bars have positioned them.

 

Thanks

 

David

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Guest ratchethack

David, if you're *careful*, you can successfully back off the banjo bolt *just enough* to allow turning the banjo and snug it back down again. BTDT many times. No guarantees. Worst case, it will leak, and you'll have to install new crush washers and bleed the system. I've never had to do that on a "previously unmolested" banjo union.

 

Good luck. :luigi:

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"Just enough" is the key. Don't loosen them enough to freely turn. Also- put a paper towel below the fitting to catch any fluid if it drips out. That stuff ruins paint/clearcoat/whatever else.

 

REad this advice 5 times before you play with brake fluid!

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Thanks guys, I may or may not give it a try depending on how confident I'm feeling. As you can see from my Avatar my whole experience with the change over from Magni and clipons to the Handlebar along with changing grips/throttle had me pretty wide eyed with the 'what the heck did I just go and do" feeling. I felt like the only thing I didn't take off was the tail end, that and feeling like a total Nubie.

 

Maybe I can pinch off the tube from the canisters to help slow any leak?

 

JRT, I ended up having to make shims for the 1mm difference between the bar and clamp. The bar is only 29" wide and has a very very small pull back so this is why I'm running into control placement issues (specifically the brake and clutch line, as well as the throttle cable). The angle has them going right over the forks, touhing them at the edge.

 

David

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Not a bomb, true. Just a machine that propells me forward at excessive speeds, with no restraints or safety devices other than a crash helmet. And I'm messing with the thingamajiggies that tell it to stop or go faster. :wacko:

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Thanks guys, I may or may not give it a try depending on how confident I'm feeling. As you can see from my Avatar my whole experience with the change over from Magni and clipons to the Handlebar along with changing grips/throttle had me pretty wide eyed with the 'what the heck did I just go and do" feeling. I felt like the only thing I didn't take off was the tail end, that and feeling like a total Nubie.

 

Maybe I can pinch off the tube from the canisters to help slow any leak?

 

JRT, I ended up having to make shims for the 1mm difference between the bar and clamp. The bar is only 29" wide and has a very very small pull back so this is why I'm running into control placement issues (specifically the brake and clutch line, as well as the throttle cable). The angle has them going right over the forks, touhing them at the edge.

 

David

 

Well, I've recently fitted Renthal bars to my Scura, and had a similar problem with the brake line. To re-route it I had to disconnect the banjo from the master cylinder altogether, re-route the line and then re-attach. This was not difficult, and there was virtually no spillage of brake fluid. The hardest part of the whole exercise is you will probably need to bleed the brakes afterwards. If you are confident doing this, you should have no problems. Just keep a wet rag handy, so if you do spill any brake fluid on your paintwork, you can wipe it off before it does any damage. Don't pinch the tube - you might damage it - and like I said it should hardly leak anyway. But don't touch your brake lever when the line is disconnected or it will squirt everywhere!

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As far as I understand, there is absolutely no need to bleed if you got air in above the calipers this way (as long as it's not trapped by a bend in the line). It will self bleed. Bleeding is for getting out air trapped down in the calipers.

 

Speaking of bleeding, once I bled calipers using a hose with a check valve. It was probably too restrictive, despite being made for that task. When I opened the nipple, the hose was pushed off it and I got a brake fluid shot very, very near my eyes. Stupid as I am, I did not wear safetly glasses. But I was lucky. Stupid as I am, I will probably not wear them the next time either. I will be very careful though.

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As far as I understand, there is absolutely no need to bleed if you got air in above the calipers this way (as long as it's not trapped by a bend in the line). It will self bleed. Bleeding is for getting out air trapped down in the calipers.

 

Speaking of bleeding, once I bled calipers using a hose with a check valve. It was probably too restrictive, despite being made for that task. When I opened the nipple, the hose was pushed off it and I got a brake fluid shot very, very near my eyes. Stupid as I am, I did not wear safetly glasses. But I was lucky. Stupid as I am, I will probably not wear them the next time either. I will be very careful though.

 

Yes you may be right - I didn't have to bleed mine, which I put down to the fact that virtually no fluid spilt. But yes, maybe its just down to good design! I'd still say though that you shouldn't touch your braking system if you don't know how to bleed it. And conversely, if you are mechanically minded enough to safely bleed the brakes, you should have no problem disconnecting the hose and re-routing it. PS - I never wear safety glasses for this job either- maybe I will from now on!

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Guest ratchethack

If David's banjo union is NOT the high point in the brake line (it is on my Sport with OE clip-ons) it might very well "self bleed" -- eventually. Until then, depending on how much air was introduced, without bleeding the line, he could be working his front brakes through a big, spongy air spring -- which might come as quite an unwelcome surprise, not to mention "situation" on the road. :o Any air not directly capable of passing up through the relief port at the master by gravity feed of the fluid should be bled out before taking on the road.

 

Those of us with clipons really have little choice, since air won't "self bleed" downward to the relief port. Best not take unnecessary chances, regardless.

 

No air let in, no prob. It's usually easily enough done.

 

Ride safely, Gents. :bike:

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If David's banjo union is NOT the high point in the brake line (it is on my Sport with OE clip-ons) it might very well "self bleed" -- eventually. Until then, depending on how much air was introduced, without bleeding the line, he could be working his front brakes through a big, spongy air spring -- which might come as quite an unwelcome surprise, not to mention "situation" on the road. :o Any air not directly capable of passing up through the relief port at the master by gravity feed of the fluid should be bled out before taking on the road.

 

Those of us with clipons really have little choice, since air won't "self bleed" downward to the relief port. Best not take unnecessary chances, regardless.

 

No air let in, no prob. It's usually easily enough done.

 

Ride safely, Gents. :bike:

 

 

Okay, by banjo union I"m taking it that you mean the very tip of the gold unit (with ball) just above the brakeline... there is no way this sucker is moving without some serious torque.

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That's the one. It's a rotary fitting- hollow in the middle, but shaped like a banjo. Hence, 'banjo fitting'.

 

This is a dumb question- are there banjos in Europe or is it historically an American thing?

 

'paddle faster, I hear banjos'

seen on a t-shirt.

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This is a dumb question- are there banjos in Europe or is it historically an American thing?

 

'paddle faster, I hear banjos'

seen on a t-shirt.

I'm told they used bagpipe brake line fittings for the scottish market. They squeal a lot though so it's considered an upgrade replacing them with ukulele fittings.

 

That film is well known here too ^_^

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