Snowbird Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Hi All, So sorry if this topic has been beat to death but as a very new member to the forum I could not locate any dialogue on it. My lo miler 2002 V-11 Le Mans has developed a wicked oil leak that appears to be coming from the alternator area. In an effort to be a 'good citizen' I took it to our local Ducatti dealer for repair. Sadly we have no qualified Moto Guzzi dealer here. The guys dutifully replaced the seal behind the alternator and returned the bike to me. After 250 kms. while heading to Sturgis I found that the leak was no better in fact possibly worse. I found an English blog that talked about this type of leak and they suggested that there is an o-ring behind that seal that could also be the problem. MPH sent me a new seal and o-ring that I now want to fit. However I need a little ground schooling first. For example: What direction removes the large nut on the alternator (clockwise or counterclockwise)? How do I lock the flywheel to facilitate the removal and refit? Do you locktite it back in place? What is the torque spec? Any other suggestions as to this repair or related engine front oil leak repairs? I love the bike, love my new Staintunes, love the MPH barbacks, Hate the oil leaks ! Snowbird Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Normal thread, ccw. I normally have someone hold a large blade screw driver against the starter gear teeth through the timing inspection hole. It's doable without anyone helping too. I don't use locktite there, torque spec is 78 Nm. That o-ring is placed inside the crank shaft sleeve. I use to grease both the seal and the o-ring (and the whole sleeve) with whatever grease is nearest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarth Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I have the same problem with oil leak. Removed the magnet but don't know how to remove the seal. Is there anything else that should be removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 You must remove the timing cover as well. Only then the bushing which holds the O-ring can be pulled off. Then, with the cover off, it's an easy task to swap the shaft seal also. Make sure it's not the cover that's just cracked. hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarth Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 If I want to change only the seal then no need for removing the timing cover? Is that correct? On attached picture seal is item 19 and it looks like that can be removed from outer side of the timing cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarth Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 This video explains everything. My link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 While it is true these leaks may come from inside the covers, first be certain the timing sensor (phase sensor, "R.P.M. and T.D.C. sensor "7") at the the top left of the front case is not seeping. It is most common and easiest to fix. The leaking of the sensor may appear along the left timing chest (looking like a chest crack or leak), or at the bottom (appearing as a leak from inside the chest), or even on the floor next to the front fork ( looking like a blown fork seal). While an O-ring is needed to fix the sensor leak, mine leaked through the wire connection and required epoxy measures to secure. May not be your trouble, but better to be sure it is not on the outside before venturing inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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