V11 Balabio Misfire

[javahouse]

Sure. I know it sounds like that. I put new bushes in the X-over and they're sealed OK.

This isn't the odd annoying bang on over-run though, it's missing and jumping to the extent it's unrideable.

Thought I'd got it fixed but it made a return yesterday.

Cheers

rOB

[motoguzznix]

Is your Ballabio equipped with O2 Sensor and catalytic converter?

 

Edit:

Just seen the other thread - at least your ECU is one for the catalytic converter. This changes things... There is no CO setting in this ECU with the extension "RC".

The o2 sensor makes all changes obsolete as it creates a new correction map for Lambda = 1. You need an lambda Eliminator to be plugged in instead of the sensor - your power commander dealer can halp you in this case and might has a good map for your engine.

[javahouse]

Is your Ballabio equipped with O2 Sensor and catalytic converter?

 

Edit:

Just seen the other thread - at least your ECU is one for the catalytic converter. This changes things... There is no CO setting in this ECU with the extension "RC".

The o2 sensor makes all changes obsolete as it creates a new correction map for Lambda = 1. You need an lambda Eliminator to be plugged in instead of the sensor - your power commander dealer can halp you in this case and might has a good map for your engine.

 

Is it worth me pointing out that it has been fine for the last 2,000 miles and this fault has only just developed. I'll enquire about the eliminator though, there's a dynojet dealer local.

Thanks

Rob

[raz]

Is it worth me pointing out that it has been fine for the last 2,000 miles and this fault has only just developed. I'll enquire about the eliminator though, there's a dynojet dealer local.

But does the bike have an O2 sensor? Maybe it's faulty? Anyone knows how far up in rpm/throttle it would affect running?

 

Another thought, do you have carbon cannisters in use? I probably seem more focused on intake leaks than I really am...

[javahouse]

Hi

Got a Lambda sensor, but no Cat. Also got carbon cans? Is that a problem? As I say, this has just developed, I've had the bike 6-months.

See photos

Rob

[raz]

Got a Lambda sensor, but no Cat. Also got carbon cans? Is that a problem? As I say, this has just developed, I've had the bike 6-months.

No, not carbon cans, I mean the emission stuff, carbon cannisters located under the tank on (some?) US and Swiss bikes, supposed to reduce fuel vapors to the atmosphere. If you have that you also have vacuum tubes from intake manifolds to that system, and a leak there would be your intake leak. If you have it it's easy enough to plug the manifold nipples and see if things get better.

[javahouse]

No, not carbon cans, I mean the emission stuff, carbon cannisters located under the tank on (some?) US and Swiss bikes, supposed to reduce fuel vapors to the atmosphere. If you have that you also have vacuum tubes from intake manifolds to that system, and a leak there would be your intake leak. If you have it it's easy enough to plug the manifold nipples and see if things get better.

 

 

Hi

No, I read about those, not on mine though.

There is a small inlet leak - seems equal both side and on the btm of the butterfly spindle. However, it was fine three weeks ago so I think I'm after something - maybe a sensor going out as richening the tps temporarily cured it. Now it's back.

Can't ride it at the mo, too bad.

 

Am I right in thinking then that you can't adjust CO on my ECU?

...also, what would be the effect of a bad air temp sensor. Mine checks OK (3 Ohm), but seems to run the same with or without it connected?

 

Rob

[raz]

but seems to run the same with or without it connected?

That's odd. Probably the ECU's limp-home mode kicking in and substituting a sane value.

 

Speaking of which, a dealer could read diagnose codes from the ECU. Sometimes that will tell you a lot, other times not. A Ducati dealer will do fine if that's more convenient.

[javahouse]

Well, it's been off the road for three weeks, so desperate tames and all that...

I've ordered a new TPS, and if that isn't the culprit it's going to Twiggers in the back of a van.

I love working on bikes, but I'm just not getting any clues with the Fi, and no-one locally is any expert.

I could change several sensors before I hit it right. Expensive in monetary terms and time - as the summer ticks away.

Thank God I have a 1000S to fall back on.

Rob

[javahouse]

Well... the V11's been languishing at the back of the garage waiting for some TLC for long enough. Had a go at it last week, and just been out for a fault-free 60-mile test - so it's fingers crossed I've got it fixed at last. And if I'm right, then never would I have expected a big lazy twin like a guzzi to be so sensitive to air leaks in the inlet. All I've done is take throttle bodies off. Strip and re-build with new spindle seals and centred the butterflies.

I used the Yamaha seals. Easy enough job. Reset the TPS on the fly afterwards at 520mV at 1100rpm with the air screws open 1/2 turn each. Balanced everything up and it's great.

Just thought I'd best tie up the loose end because it's good feedback if anyone else is struggling.

 

Rob

[Kiwi_Roy]

Reading through your symptoms again reminds me of the way my bike behaved with a dirty ignition switch contact. The coils and injectors have a high inrush current, any resistance there will effect their operation.

A while back I suggested putting a small 12V LED in the hole in the brake lever pivot and run a wire to various parts of the electrics under the seat.

LEDs work better than incandescent because the light output responds instantly to change in voltage, it will show at a glance if you have an intermittent connection. If you don't have a 12V make your own with a superbright LED and a 1K resistor.

I may be barking up the wrong tree but at least you can check the electrics off the list.

 

A point I would connect to

The Positive wire at the coil - that will check you have a steady voltage at the ECU proving out your relays etc.

 

I would also connect a multimeter across the battery and strap it to your tank. Kangaroo hopping can be a symptom of over - voltage, don't ask me how I know.

If you haven't already done so provide a good ground strap to your regulator, don't rely on the poor grounding from a couple of screws, it might have been fine when the bike was new and shinny but aluminium to steel in a wet location

 

Here's an easy way to check your ignition switch from under the seat, see Note 4

Test Point Layout.pdf

 

BTW, do you still have the electric petcock?

 

Hope I have given you something to think about.

Roy