Lugging in middle gears

[df2]

Hi all, it's that time of year again and the v11, is getting ready for the season. towards the end of last season I noticed the bike was lugging badly when trying

To accelerate in 3 or 4th gear, say when passing. I would have thought this bike had more mid range power than that. I found that my plugs were fouled black, too rich? The question I guess is, shouldn't I be getting better performance than that? The bikes about to go to the shop, I'm thinking valves, tps and throttle bodies? Am I off base? I want to give the shop something to go on.

 

Thanks

 

David

[stormsedge]

David, have you made any modifications?...do you have an open top air box? Are there any other symptoms except the "lugging" under hard acceleration in 3/4? k

[richard100t]

You could possibly have your tps out of whack a little. Check the tps, and sync the tb's, that usually solves the problem. Also check the rubber intake boots on the tb's for excessive cracking, that can cause trouble too.

[Tom M]

I'm probably thinking the same thing as stormsedge. If you have an open top airbox the heat shielding on the bottom of the fuel tank could be loose and getting sucked down on top of the airbox blocking airflow to the engine. Another possibility is a mouse nest in the airbox.

 

If that's not it might be time for the valve adjust/TB sync/tps check/new spark plugs tuneup.

[df2]

It is an open airbox, setup done by PO. Mice hey? Well we had quite a few of them this past winter so that's a definite possibility, haven't had then tank off to look at the filter/airbox since last fall, but I had the problem then too. Like I said, the bikes going in for a new rear tire, and I was thinking of having the items you all mentioned Valves, tps, tb's checked and balanced, potentially dyno'd and remapped. I'm thinking of putting the airbox cover back on, haven't decided yet.

 

I kind of wish there was someone around that liked working on the bikes and knowledgeable on guzzi's I could learn from. Part of the reason I bought the guzzi was to learn to work on a relatively accessible engine. But, I have small kids and little time and having the bike torn apart for extended periods of time takes away from riding. So I kind of need to work with someone who knows what they are doing so it goes back together the same day it's taken apart. I learn much better visually and have a hard time reading manuals and instructions. So, I take it to the shop for anything above small maintenance, but at $100 plus an hour labor, it gets pricey.

 

Anyway I appreciate the confirmation on the usual suspects.

 

PS. I did change the plugs yesterday, but the underlying issue on why the originals fouled still needs to be taken care of.

 

David

[docc]

+1 on the basic tune up including servicing the air filter. If it's an "oiled foam" job, there's lots of concern about their effectiveness. I clean and oil mine religiously once a year (no, really, I burn incense and make incantations, face the bike east - all that).<_>

 

Even though the service interval for tuning is 6000 miles, I've found my Sport craves the attention and often has shown response to 4000 mile tune ups.

 

Don't neglect battery and charging voltages. The ECU gets unhappy with suboptimal voltage. "Optimal" is 12.8 resting and 14.2+ charging.

[stefano]

It is an open airbox, setup done by PO. Mice hey? Well we had quite a few of them this past winter so that's a definite possibility, haven't had then tank off to look at the filter/airbox since last fall, but I had the problem then too. Like I said, the bikes going in for a new rear tire, and I was thinking of having the items you all mentioned Valves, tps, tb's checked and balanced, potentially dyno'd and remapped. I'm thinking of putting the airbox cover back on, haven't decided yet.

 

I kind of wish there was someone around that liked working on the bikes and knowledgeable on guzzi's I could learn from. Part of the reason I bought the guzzi was to learn to work on a relatively accessible engine. But, I have small kids and little time and having the bike torn apart for extended periods of time takes away from riding. So I kind of need to work with someone who knows what they are doing so it goes back together the same day it's taken apart. I learn much better visually and have a hard time reading manuals and instructions. So, I take it to the shop for anything above small maintenance, but at $100 plus an hour labor, it gets pricey.

 

Anyway I appreciate the confirmation on the usual suspects.

 

PS. I did change the plugs yesterday, but the underlying issue on why the originals fouled still needs to be taken care of.

 

David

hi david, couple weeks ago i had a mouse start a nest over the weekend in one of my boots i leave at work. we get some really big mouse nests, it rains a LOT here, & it's dry inside the shop.(& my boots)

if you don't already, i would consider removing the rear wheel yourself, and adjusting the valves yourself. pretty routine maintainance. and doing most of your own work builds confidence, plus it's cheaper & as pirsig says, you won't have some kid hammering on your bike with a cold chisel.

i haven't done tps, or throttle bodies yet as bike runs great(sheesh, i shouldn't have mentioned that,knock wood) so i can't advise on that. guess i will learn how eventually.

i know what you mean about learning more visually than reading manuals. me too......

good luck, stef

[Tom M]

Loose tank insulation partially blocking a lidless airbox would definitely fit with your symptoms, including the fouled plugs. $8 for a can of spray adhesive and an hour or two of your time could solve your problems.

[stormsedge]

Loose tank insulation partially blocking a lidless airbox would definitely fit with your symptoms, including the fouled plugs. $8 for a can of spray adhesive and an hour or two of your time could solve your problems.

 

I agree...loose insulation sucked against my air breather has slowed me down more than once...cleaning the filter as Docc suggests is a good idea as well. k

[df2]

Thanks guys, I'll give it a shot. If there is one thing I hate though is pulling that tank. IT always seems like I'm going to break

the selenoid valve or the Pressure Adjuster off the tank as they almost rest on the boots. I had to place a thick washer where the tank bolts down to keep them off of them.

[rossi46]

the selenoid valve or the Pressure Adjuster off the tank as they almost rest on the boots

could it be the auto fuel tap not opening fully?

[df2]

Anyone know of a good source for the tank insulation/heat shield. I took a preliminary look at mine and it is all curled up and

away from the tank, but it's really hard and I think hardly pliable enough to glue back down. While I'm at it I have an extra Ferracci air filter I'll change out.

 

Thanks

 

Also, rossi46 - I don't think that's the issue as both are off the boots, just close. but I'll make sure. Thanks... But, wouldn't that make the bike run lean, rather than rich?

[Tom M]

My tank insulators were in the same shape. I was able to reuse them by holding each piece in place while the fast dry 3m spray adhesive set up. That said Jegs or Summit carry heat shielding sheet stock that should be similar to the factory stuff.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo-Tec/Thermo-Tec-Adhesive-Backed-Heat-Barrier/750869/10002/-1

 

The trick to getting the tank off without interference from the petcock and fuel pressure regulator is:

- pull the bolt and lift the rear of the tank so it clears the tailpiece

 

- slide the tank backwards as far as possible

 

- lift the front of the tank a few inches so it clears the front mounting pads

 

- slide the tank forward then lift straight up.