mikie Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 When removing the rear wheel, the manual says to first remove the 27mm nut on the brake disk side, and then unscrew the pin (axle) part way to remove the caliper. I'll do this tomorrow, but looking at it I'm wondering how to get the axle out. Does one just tap it out from the brake side or is there actually a way to unscrew it from the other side that doesn't seem obvious at first glance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 This thread may help in the How To section: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1326 .... but yes, the axle screws out from the right side with the hex key/slug included in your tool kit in combination with a socket. Once you unscrew it, you can pull/work it out by hand. Hope that helps al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brian Robson Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 If you are using the MG stand, put a couple of pieces of 3/4 wood under the wheel. It will allow the axle to come out and go back in easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Remove the brake caliper from the bracket first. It's a whole lot easier that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikie Posted March 10, 2004 Author Share Posted March 10, 2004 Thanks very much, everyone. I'll give it my best shot tonight, and hopefully tomorrow it'll be nice to ride again on not-so-bald tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brian Robson Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 It has to be the greatest feeling on a bike to ride with new tyres. The handling is improved, cornering is safer and braking ability increases. As an aside, when I changed my tyres at 36,000Km, all the bearings were rough. My local dealer reports that he recommends the bearings be replaced at every tyre change. Of course he does, you say BUT you can change all four bearings in both wheels for $36.00 Canadian, and I think its cheap reassurance. BTW changing the bearings is so easy, another thanks to MG for ease of labour......shaft drive, valves, air filter, fuel filter, oil and oil filter.....the easiest bike to work on that I've ever owned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John O'Sullivan Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Brian, Pop the plastic dust covers/seals on the new bearings with a small knife and half-fill with grease, replace the dust covers/seals. The bearings will last many more years with a little lubrication. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brian Robson Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 Already did that first time John ..these bearings were well shagged. Used german bearings next, see if they are more efficient Rain, snow salt here in the Arctic Riviera did them in. Thanks though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 mikie you probably know this already but while the wheels out its a good oportunity to grease the rear hub splines and its easier to get at those pesky grease nipples on the UJs/shaft. Mal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikie Posted March 11, 2004 Author Share Posted March 11, 2004 In fact, I picked up some Silkolene racing grease at the time I was getting my tires installed. I'll have to look for those nipples, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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