Air filter v11 Sport

[Guest TYRER]

Hi all

 

Just getting my c2000 v11 sport this week, and am looking for better sound (induction roar) and engine response for the bike. The fast by Ferracci airbox mod kit ie no lid verces the round K and N pods. Which do you recommend. I do like the idea of running with no side panels, but due to the Uk weather the side panels would need to able to fit.

 

Your views please

 

Carl T

 

Cheers

[jrt]

Pros for the airbox mod- easy, weather resistant, sounds good, works

Pros for the pods- easy, looks cool, sounds good, works, saves wear and tear on the side panels

Cons on the pods- you have to cut the intake runners (velocity stacks) to fit the pods.

Re: weather- I've driven mine through a bunch of rain, and it's not been an issue. They sit behind the cylinders and inside your legs, so the intakes are reasonably well protected.

This kind of thing has come up pretty regularly, and everyone has their own opinion. Al has concatenated a bunch of threads here:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=461

[Steve G.]

I can vouch for the Ferracci air box fit. The induction roar is all encompassing, overwelming the exhaust sound on my slightly modified stock Lafranconis.

Ciao, Steve G.

[GuzzTim]

Ditto to what Steve G. says.. I have the FBF kit and it makes a wonderful sound.

 

Tim

[gthyni]

Cons on the pods- you have to cut the intake runners (velocity stacks) to fit the pods.

No you don't.

 

There has been some theories about velocity stacks,

but no real beef. Velocity stacks has to be calculated

for port times and a specific rpm range you want to

optimize. I have not seen any such calculus yet,

just slapping on a bit of tubing does not give you

a better performance.

 

Beside the K&N on Al's bike has i bit of intake runner

build in, the RC-1200s on mine don't.

[jrt]

Well, ok, I can't really argue your point. Your bike seems to run fine without a velocity stack. I have the RU-whatevers on mine and kept the stack and my bike runs pretty well. The stack is a fine looking piece of plastic, though. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

[Mike Stewart]

There is a science behind intake runner length and diameter to optimize performance at a given rpm. What that science is, I have no clue.

 

I had a 94 BMW R1100 RSL and the bike felt like it had no really good low end torque when riding two up from a stop. I really had to slip the clutch to get the bike rolling. A few years went on and then I read a German article on gaining 7 horse power for 35 dollars. Well in the article, this guy installed the R 1100 GS intake runners on his R 1100 RSL and had the bike dynoed before and after the intake runner change. And it was true that below 5000 rpm, there was a 7 horse power increase. There was a slight drop in HP at redline but in the real world on the street more HP at 5000 rpm is the name of the game.

 

I ordered the intake runners from my local BMW dealer and had the parts in a week. The GS runners were twice as long as the RS runners and were slightly smaller diameter. I installed them and could not believe the difference it made from idle to 5000 rpm. It was like a different bike. Getting off the line fully loaded riding two up was much better and the bike would still cruise at 120 mph. fully loaded. Just what the doctor ordered.

 

So after my learnings with the BMW, I am a firm believer in intake runner lengths.

The large short runner length that the V11's use will most likely provide upper end horsepower. A longer runner with a smaller diameter will provide more low and midrange torque and HP. How much, I Don't know. We need someone that has alot of time on their hands to get their bike on a dyno and play with different lengths of intake runner tubes. Humm, now that I think about it, for every change in the exhaust system, I bet the intake runner length needs to be adjusted for max. HP. O, boy now my head really hurts.

 

Mike

[Guest northend]

The FBF is the way to go, sounds WAAAAYY!!! cool!!!