pete roper Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 In which case you'll need to pull the whole top end anyway to check the piston to valve and valve to valve clearances, The orris RR3 is a fairly radical grind I belive, not something you just stick in. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gthyni Posted October 31, 2004 Author Share Posted October 31, 2004 In which case you'll need to pull the whole top end anyway to check the piston to valve and valve to valve clearances, The orris RR3 is a fairly radical grind I belive, not something you just stick in. Yeah, I know, I was planning to have a local tuning expert do some mild porting of the heads and let him sink the valve seats a bit at the same time. How much I not really sure, any pointers? Might just as well take the other Q now that Antonio had me spill the beans. I the workshop manual they use a MG index plate with some accessories. Do I need these things or can I get it right some cheapskate way anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Unless you're going to fit some sort of vernierable gears, (And you probably know my opinions on them!) you're stuck with the factory timing setup on the gears or one tooth either side of it which with a Norris RR3 will certainly put you in valve bending territory so you basically have to trust that Norris have ground the cam accurately. I'd avoid pocketing the valves, it's not a good way to go, get the pistons flycut instead if there are clearance problems. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gthyni Posted October 31, 2004 Author Share Posted October 31, 2004 Unless you're going to fit some sort of vernierable gears, (And you probably know my opinions on them!) you're stuck with the factory timing setup on the gears or one tooth either side of it which with a Norris RR3 will certainly put you in valve bending territory so you basically have to trust that Norris have ground the cam accurately. OK, thanks Pete for putting me straight, better safe than sorry so I'll be very careful. I really appreciate your advise. Should I get harder valve springs too? the engine is quiet new, around 7500 kms. I'd avoid pocketing the valves, it's not a good way to go, get the pistons flycut instead if there are clearance problems. Why not? If get valve-to-valve clearance problems it would be the only way to go, wouldn't it? I been told the with a proper head work pocketing the valves should not restrict the flow, but that was a general statement. Is there something related to Guzzi heads that makes a bad move? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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