Martin Barrett Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 Never use mine (once discorved it was a fast idle and not a choke), get dressed, start her up and ride(gently at first). Thats not true, started her up on the shop stand the otherday to check for blows on the exhaust. Used a bit then to keep her running. The next time I rode I found myself running on when using a dab of rear brake for balance. Luckily I noticed that the revs weren't dropping below 1500 so checked the fast idle before deciding that the rear brake caliper needed an overhaul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichMaund Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 There's nothing wrong with this mechanism that a lighter spring can't cure. It comes stock from the factory with a spring made for a Bear Trap. Since there are no wild bears left to trap in Italy, but the socialist government don't want an old traditional business to go under AND the business owner has family connections at Moto Guzzi, the consumer winds up with a fast idle mechanism capable of crushing a bear's paw. Man! Can I shovel it or what? Great thing is, in the Italian business environment, this COULD happen! Solution? On mine I took a spring from a retractable tip ink pen and substituted that for the monster suspension spring Guzzi installed. The fast idle mechanism then worked fine. For the cost of a disposable pen and ten minutes time you can make this headache go away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidb Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 Some one on this site discovered that the factory installed the seat spring where the fast idle spring belongs. Probaly did this to a few thousand units. I swapped mine and now they both work perfectly. It only takes ten minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Finally got around to swapping springs today... Wish I did it years ago Now things work like they are supposed to... on both ends When doing the swap I noticed the fast idle cable was routed on top of the speedo cable causing a bad angle at the throttle body and down pressure on the speedo cable (neither good). When I removed the cable for the spring swap, I routed the cable under the speedo and everything works much better and no cable binding. You can see the dent the cable left in the speedo in the attached picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MikeC Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Is there a way to get the fast idle to open the throttle more, barely moves it, but does work. My California has an adjustment screw but don't see one on the V11. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Mike, there's a downward-facing screw on the V11 Sport & variants that allows adjustment of a little "cam follower" wheel that makes contact with the fast-idle cam that opens the throttle. I'm not sure if it's the same as on the Cali, just upside down? With the fast-idle lever in the closed position, you can use this screw to set the follower to make contact with the cam at just off idle. This will give you a good range of fast-idle advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 Is there a way to get the fast idle to open the throttle more, barely moves it, but does work. My California has an adjustment screw but don't see one on the V11. Mike 53049[/snapback] Mike, If you have not swapped springs, I would do that first. This tread talks about the stock spring being too strong and limiting both travel and setting of the fast idle. Before I did the swap, I don't think I could get 60% travel out of the fast idle and when I did it would not stay unless I held it. Now I have 100% and it stays where put. During the spring replacement you will have to adjust the static position with the set screw mentioned. Even though I never use the feature now that things are broke in, it is nice to know it works as it is supposed too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O2 V11 Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 Mike, when my bike was new my fast idle even after I swapped the springs around was barely 2000rpm. I tried adjusting the cable to increase the pull but it was not successful. I cut a piece of rubber hose and put it over the whatsit that contacted the cam. This took my fast idle up to about 2500rpm. Since adjusting my TPS setting and throttle body sync when I fitted my PC my fast idle now sits around 3500rpm. You can see what I did in the attached pic. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MikeC Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 To all that replied, Thanks for the reply's. I found the screw and made the adjustment. I'll take a pen apart tomorrow at work and swap springs. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 To all that replied, Thanks for the reply's. I found the screw and made the adjustment. I'll take a pen apart tomorrow at work and swap springs. Mike 53112[/snapback] Mike, You already have the springs needed. The one that does the seat latch is the one that should be swapped ith the fast idle. It is probably a better qyality than the spring from a pen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MikeC Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 Mike, You already have the springs needed. The one that does the seat latch is the one that should be swapped ith the fast idle. It is probably a better qyality than the spring from a pen. 53115[/snapback] Edge, I thought you guys were just joking. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 Edge, I thought you guys were just joking. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Mike 53118[/snapback] Mike, No, it works.. You'll have to "un-thread" the seat release spring at the latch since the end is permantently crimped on. I used a knief to separate the first coil and start it moving off the cable. It will just slip on the throttle advance cable once you release the cable via set screw. The one off the throttle advance, just gets threaded back on to the seat release. 10-15 minutes and all is done.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest putt-meister Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 Swapping the seat latch and cold idle springs is SHEAR GENIUS!!!!! Thanks All Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeve Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 Swapping the seat latch and cold idle springs is SHEAR GENIUS!!!!! Thanks All 53125[/snapback] Thank yewwww, thank yewwwww! [takes a bow...] It's certainaly gratifying to see that my one moment of inspiration is appreciated! Now if I could just come up with an insight that would make me $50 million & I could talk to Piaggio about buying Guzzi... Hey, maybe the seatlatch & fast-idle springs swap should be added to a FAQ? Lord knows, the info is spread out across several different threads at this point... Ride on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WitchCityBallabio Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 The spring from a pen works perfectly. It really does! After 1500 miles or so, I absolutely love the bike, but the fast idle thing was making me nuts. I took the above suggestion and finally now have a fast idle without having to hold the clutch, the fast idle lever and throttle all at the same time! Whooppeee! God, I love this discussion board and this particular forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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