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Looking for a better headlight


Janusz

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I am thinking about improving a lousy IMO main headlight. Since, I think, LeMans reflector is somewhat smaller therefore I would be interested in some advice for a naked V11S, naturally.

 

When measured its diameter is 18.6cm (7.5/8in) by the way.

 

In cars with regular round reflector i had excellent results replacing stock light with an aftermarket Hella unit. This is of course somewhat smaller and would'nt fit V11 housing.

 

Did anybody succeed improving a stock headlight? I am absolutely not interested in these atrocious futuristic looking lights like B&G Furia etc. I also know about HID lights and it is no the way i would like to go this time.

 

Changing bulbs solves nothing. I think the reflector or/and glass is just lousy.

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Thanks Al. That would be good, that Speaker's product, but it looks they make only 7 inch light aimed more towards harley crowd.

 

I would also much prefer less avant-garde look of the split reflector which does not fit very well with general style of the bike. The regular Hella reflector would be ideal but i could not get a proper size. do they make it? I do not know.

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I improved th lighting no end by rewiring the light, Iam now getting full voltage to the bulb, where before I was losing 1/ 1.5v at the bulb. the Bike light switch just operates relays in the headlamp shell, these are then wired direct to the batt with a fuse in line. I have seen the idea on a guzzi site somewhere

lighting_update_wiring.jpg

headlamp_shell.jpg

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Just pulling out the internal metal shade helped mine a little.

It did not put more light on the road, but more light up ahead.

Some, have upgraded bulbs.

I would avoid the blue tinted "xeon" bulbs.

Re-wiring so that the headlights have two extra dedicated relays, one for high beam and one for low beam, and heavier wiring(12 gauge???) will give the bulb more juice and Ummmph!

EDIT, Yah, like what DVH said.

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Upgrading the wiring is probably the most cost effective approach and certainly the first one that should be tried. I don't have any particular qualms about the stock V11 Sport headlight - probably because it is so good compared to the headlight on my Sport 1100i (horrible pattern) or my California (light dims considerably whent the brake is applied). Just changing the electrical connector on my Sport 1100i improved the light output measurably. Upgrading the wiring is something I obviously should do - but haven't. But I'm certain that the wiring should always be the first step taken prior to investigating wholesale changes in the lights themselves.

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Guest Brian Robson
I just bought a sealed beam for my LeMans an H6024 per "Headlight Knackered" post. Some alterations to the bucket needed. I'm anxious to see how well it turns out.

43780[/snapback]

That conversion has really worked well for me.....once adjusted, the high beam has great spread and the dip is really acute and more focused than the previous. I agree with Janusz, in that I think the lens shape has a lot to do with it, and as a bonus the lens is more convex and looks better on the Le Mans. :bike:

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Thank you for all the input. the idea of rewiring has lots of appeal.

 

How difficult is it to do? Electrics is my Achilles tendon.

 

Would that be just a matter of unplugging the bulb, connecting the relay to the wire (do I need cut off the connector?) and then run a hot wire to battery?

 

Does relay (relays?) fit both into the bucket?

 

And final thought: why factory does not do it? If it is a marked improvement for maybe 2-3 $ cost increase would that make sense abandoning an idea of relayed headlight on the bikes?

After all it is very important having a proper light and compromising for couple of bucks makes no sense.

 

I do not think any manufacturer including Japanese uses relays. Why not?

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Here is the headlight rewire thread:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...67&hl=headlight

 

 

I bought my relays/relay-sockets from Summit racing for around $30 I think. They are the normal sized relays one gets with foglight kits, etc... not the micro relays we have. This is a good think IMHO, as the "mini"(normal sized) units should be more durable long term.

 

al

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The relay set up sounds great. I am waiting to hear from friskycutter. He is going to add two Buell headlights to the stock light - I believe just below and beside the stock light. The numbers seem to work out for wattage but I may send him a note to incorporate this relay mod as well. You can never have too much light (or too loud an exhaust - or too much horsepower - or too much carbon fibre - oh where does it end....?)

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Thank you for all the input. the idea of rewiring has lots of appeal.

 

How difficult is it to do? Electrics is my Achilles tendon.

 

Would that be just a matter of unplugging the bulb, connecting the relay to the wire (do I need cut off the connector?) and then run a hot wire to battery?

 

Does relay (relays?) fit both into the bucket?

 

And final thought: why factory does not do it? If it is a marked improvement for maybe 2-3 $ cost increase would that make sense abandoning an idea of relayed headlight on the bikes?

After all it is very important having a proper light and compromising for couple of bucks makes no sense.

 

I do not think any manufacturer including Japanese uses relays. Why not?

43808[/snapback]

It should be pretty simple, just follow the diagram.

Soldering can be a bitch.

An easier alternative may be these posilock connectors http://www.webbikeworld.com/Reviewed-motor...ucts/posi-lock/

Yes, you will need to run a hot wire to the battery and a dedicated ground line to the frame or engine.

There is a headlight relay, but it is not dedicated only to the headlight.

The factory does not do it, because it would be considered over engineered.

And technically your bulb will burn hotter and not last as long after the modification.

A worthwhile tradeoff, but still a tradeoff.

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I used two micro relays which fit inside the bowl, parts price all in was £15, the original headlamp connector does not have to be cut off. If you use spade connectors, should a relay fail I can just unplug the harness and resort to the standard setup. sods law states it will always fail when its dark and needed.

 

I took the + from the back of the starter motor just so that it doesn't overcrowd the battery area. all in, including soldered connections ( seal with shrink wrap ) takes about an hour.

 

 

If electrics is not your thing work slowly and double check everything before switching on. check relay operation with the light disconnected, you will hear the relay switching as you opearte the light switch

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Cool!

So you if you use spade connectors, you won't have to cut into any of the existing wiring, so NO Soldering required!

Then the hardest thing is getting your crimping done right. :blink:

Buying a good crimper might help.

 

Great tip on connecting to the starter lead!

I saw my mechanic charging up a bike through that lead rather than removing the seat to get to the battery...I felt kind of stupid for not having thought of it.

:notworthy:

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