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V-ölwanne


gthyni

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Of course I start this on a sunday with nice weather

so I finally get inspired to put the engine together.

 

I removed the sump, flange, oilcoolr and oilfilter

so far so good, but then...

 

How the feck does these things come together...

looked at the instruction included but it is not

very helpful.

 

The housing for the oilpressure-valve and the

thermostatic valve is in the way..

 

2 Qs:

- can I remove the hosusing and valves altogether?

- do I need to reroute some oil piping?

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Gthyni,

 

Is your question regarding installing the deep V oil pan?

 

You also need to remove the center housing that has the oil pressure switch and thermostat. This is held in place by a few bolts. The oil pressure relief valve needs (if I remember correctly) to be installed into the deep V sump. Take care removing the oil pressure relief valve, there is some really strong lock tite holding it in place. I cracked the center housing when removing mine. Also use locktite when installing it into the sump. If this baby comes loose, you will loose all oil pressure.

 

You can remove the inner valve assembly with the upper sump half, the pipes and valves come out as one piece.

 

You do not have to do any plumbing. The only plumbing will be the oil drain from the frame to the sump. The oil pickup and oil feed are all done by the passages in the deep V sump.

 

And yes, the german instructions are :vomit:

 

Hope this helps,

Mike

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course I start this on a sunday with nice weather

so I finally get inspired to put the engine together.

 

I removed the sump, flange, oilcoolr and oilfilter

so far so good, but then...

 

How the feck does these things come together...

looked at the instruction included but it is not

very helpful.

 

The housing for the oilpressure-valve and the

thermostatic valve is in the way..

 

2 Qs:

- can I remove the hosusing and valves altogether?

- do I need to reroute some oil piping?

48981[/snapback]

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thanks guys,

all became much clearer when I removed the centre housing.

 

Only problem now is the drain line to the frame.

The adapter from the old sump does not fit,

'cause the hole in the new sump is a bit larger.

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thanks guys,

all became much clearer when I removed the centre housing.

 

Only problem now is the drain line to the frame.

The adapter from the old sump does not fit,

'cause the hole in the new sump is a bit larger.

49000[/snapback]

 

 

When I purchased the sump, I think there were two different part numbers listed. My sump came with a length of hose and fittings to make the oil drain back hose. The drain back hose attaches to the oil drain hole in the pan via a large banjo fitting. Then there is a smaller drain plug that is in the center of the banjo bolt to aid draining the sump.

 

Mike

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Well, mine is a bit older, and only has a M20x 1.5 thread, same as the oilfillplug on engine and gearbox. I took a drainplug, with the flat outside and a hex inside. MAde the tread for the smaller plug that you have now in the old oilpan, screwed it in, and welded it on the inside, so I'm sure it's never going to loosen, or leak.

See picture

DSC02406_800.jpg

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Hey goran

 

The problem is the same even with older production of the part.

When you get this V oilsump, you must do build your own oil hose <_>

 

Sorry to have forgotten to warm you about that.

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next Q:

 

what about the mesh filter...

the stock one has an off-centre mounting bolt and no cutout,

the v-sump wants a centred bolt and a cutout for the oil flow in-cast tubing.

 

did you just throw it away

or shall I do some careful "knifeing"?

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bump

 

I decided to leave the mesh filter out,

it seems that a cut mesh would be just

as likely to spread metal as to catch it-

 

Is this dangerously stupid?

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Well, I didn't find things in it last time, but if some engineparts come down, it might be a good thing. Pete Roper can tell you horrorstorys for shure.:-)

 

Did you find an oilline solution?

49764[/snapback]

 

I hope the oil filter could catch most things.

I change oil and filter more frequently than

the service schedule recommends.

 

I made a reduction so I can use the stock hose.

I seems to sit tight and good but I will weld it locked

with Alutite so it stays in place when thing get hot.

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I can confirm that the sump is good for transporting heat.

One hour with a propane burner and I did get the whole

thing hot to handle even with gloves but I couldn't get the

spot I was aiming at hot enough to Alutite weld my flange to

the sump :bbblll:

 

I am certain the oil cooler is not needed with this thing on B)

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