jihem Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 hi :-) i'm trying to access the small greasers on the shaft. Does anyone have a special trick, or use a special tool to grease them things ? And has anyone ever been able to grease the one closer to the engine... thanx :-) jihem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twhitaker Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 I bought a universal grease fitting at Ace Hardware. It's basically a tube with a swivel on the very end. The last 20 or 25mm pivots through 180 degrees. The tube is about 150mm long. I connected this to the pump. With the rear tire removed you position the zerk at the top and reach through the driveshaft tunnel in the swingarm and make the connection to the grease fitting. Wrap the universal joint protectors with some tape to catch the grease as it flings off during your first ride. This should make the mess somewhat easier to clean up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihem Posted June 3, 2005 Author Share Posted June 3, 2005 With the rear tire removed you position the zerk at the top and reach through the driveshaft tunnel in the swingarm and make the connection to the grease fitting. 53354[/snapback] i was afraid you would say that ;-) (thanx anyway) my concern is....hmmm....is there a way to grease the darn thing without removing the wheel ? ciao, jihem:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Werner Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 You don't need to remove the wheel! Here is a post that I made last year which should make the job easy for you. Well, I just lubed the front U-joint in about 5 minutes with the bike on the side stand. Following advice on this forum, I bought a 180 swivel attachment for the grease gun and attached it to an 8" section of flexible tubing (using a female-female connector). When the grease fitting is at the top of the shaft you can feel it with your finger by reaching down in front of the footrest plate. Then the grease coupler can be threaded through the swingarm tunnel and guided onto the zerk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihem Posted June 3, 2005 Author Share Posted June 3, 2005 You don't need to remove the wheel! 53357[/snapback] YES ! getting there ! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted June 4, 2005 Share Posted June 4, 2005 To me it is impossible to do it on the supertwin without removing the wheel especialy with the 5.5 wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihem Posted June 5, 2005 Author Share Posted June 5, 2005 You don't need to remove the wheel! Here is a post that I made last year which should make the job easy for you. 53357[/snapback] thanx for the tip. the mechanic BMW i went to, round the corner, didn't have a flexible tube so we had to remove the wheel. Took us 15' max. i'm a bit concerned about the lifespan of the shaft. The STW's looks pristine. I know it says here and there that it has to be changed every 20.000 kms, especially if you're hammering the bike ;-). What do you people reckon ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 best is to get the shaft out every 7000 km or so, if you have it in your hand, you can feel how it is. And easy access to greasing too:-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 best is to get the shaft out every 7000 km or so, if you have it in your hand, you can feel how it is. And easy access to greasing too:-) 53474[/snapback] Is it difficult to remove the shaft? I wouldnt mind pulling it out myself & having a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve G. Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 I bought the grease gun and extention mentioned in the previous thread. [i had to drive to the U.S. to get the extension, it is not listed as an accessory for this manufacturer in Canada.] There is no way I could grease the front grease nipple. To me it seems access can only be achieved if the angle of the shaft is set down as much as possible, at the same time the shaft must be swiveled so the nipple is at the hightest point in it's rotation. Unfortunately for me anyways, this meant removing the wheel, and rear hub to allow the shaft to drop down to a point where the body end of the shaft could be dropped out of place enough to allow the grease gun to "click" onto the nipple. Ciao, Steve G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 I know it says here and there that it has to be changed every 20.000 kms, especially if you're hammering the bike ;-).What do you people reckon ? 53470[/snapback] On missing daytona rs with 1225 it has 29 500 km and was still good. On daytona rs 1000 it has 40 000 km without problem and i am not friendly with it, always drive it in "sport mode" My own way to go : checking every 5000 km if it did not took too much "play" and greasing it well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V11UK Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 FYI my V11's shaft has done 67,500 km with no problems. Its been dealer serviced every 10,000 km and to my knowledge has only been greased, never taken apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leafman60 Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Hey guys, I grease my shaft regularly without removing the wheel. Once you get the hang of it, it takes maybe 5 minutes for all fittings, including the front. I bought the hinged fitting. I think it was a Lubrimatic brand but I think I got it at Ace. Its a fitting that simply hinges one way up and down. Next, I fitted about a 6 inch pipe (nipple) into it and screwed on a coupling and male alemite grease fitting on the other end. So, I have a 1/8 pipe nipple with the hinged grease gun fitting on one end and a male grease fitting on the other. I simply bend the hinge fitting down about 45 degrees then fish it through from the rear on top of the shaft until it connects with the shaft fitting which is rotated to the top posiition. You can see it from the front as you look through the grease shroud aroung the U joint. I push the rear of the nipple and it snaps the hinged grease gun head onto the shaft fitting. Then, I take my regular grease gun and snap its fitting onto the male grease fitting on the other end of the nipple and pump a couple of times. Works like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MikeC Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Well, I purchased the 180 degree tool and with a nipple added a 10 inch piece of pipe to the tool. Threaded it through the tunnel, took a couple of tries but I seemed to get it on the zerk, although it did not snap on just felt like it went over it so I pumped some grease. Hopefully some went in. Did anyone get a positive snap onto the zerk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Hey guys, I grease my shaft regularly without removing the wheel. Once you get the hang of it, it takes maybe 5 minutes for all fittings, including the front. I bought the hinged fitting. I think it was a Lubrimatic brand but I think I got it at Ace. Its a fitting that simply hinges one way up and down. Next, I fitted about a 6 inch pipe (nipple) into it and screwed on a coupling and male alemite grease fitting on the other end. 53833[/snapback] That is right for my daytona rs too but we talk here about the ghezzi&brian supertwin case which is a little different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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