badmotogoozer Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Hi all, Tearing into the goose to fix a weeping transmission seal that is now piddling. Stuck at the rear axle, literally. Just getting the nut off required a serious session with the air gun. Now the axle refuses to budge. Soaked as much as I can get to in Release, hit the right side with the air gun. Pound left side with wood block and hammer. Nothing. I've read Brian Robson's thread on his experience. Not good. He mentions a hex head on his axle, his is (was) an 02 as mine is 01. I don't think mine is hex. Does my axle drift out or thread out? Looks like drift but if there's threads in there I don't want to wreck them. thanks, Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 I just had my 02 out this weekend and on the RH side there is a hex socket covered with a dust plug. Axel drifted out to the right without too much effort. I am into that area once a year for lube, inspection, and etc.. Don't know if your a victim of the rusted axel-bearing scenario or not I know that the axel can be a little stuborn if not totally unloaded (vertically and torsionally) also not sure what the diference, if any, is for an 01.. So... Go slow, and use only measured, controlled force or things get unproportionally expensive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 The axle has probably seized in the spacer. 1. Using a hex wrench in the socket (drive side) end of the axle, make sure the entire axle turns with the nut slack. 2. Obtain a heavy steel block, like a big sledgehammer (don't worry, you don't hit the bike with this!) 3. Obtain a socket or piece of tube that will fit OVER the head of the axle and abut the swingarm. 4. Obtain a wife / girlfriend / other assistant. 5. Obtain a solid piece of wood and a 5lb lump hammer. 6. Support the bike solidly with the rear wheel off the ground. 7. Get the assistant to hold the tube/socket firmly in place against the swingarm using the head of the sledgehammer. 8. Screw the nut onto the end of the axle about half way. 9. Hold the wood against the nut. 10. Warn your assistant, and hit the wood as hard as you can with the lump hammer. 11. Repeat until the axle comes free. DON'T TRY THIS WITHOUT THE HEAVY BLOCK / TUBE / ASSISTANT OR YOU COULD DAMAGE STUFF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txrider Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 You said you soaked the axle/swingarm contact areas- I have had little success with WD-40 and the like. However, Liquid Wrench and/or Kroil have helped in several situations including getting a stuck shell casing from a rifle. You might try soaking again with one of these before resorting to mucho force. Mine was partially siezed on l/h swingarm/axle junction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 Thanks for the responses! Nogbad - can't get past your step 1. Bike is up on the Guzzi stand. Axle nut is off, rubber cap is out, allen key tool from kit is in its place. Air gun on key tool does nothing at all. No movement. Bashing on the left side (nut mostly on of course) doesn't even move the swing arm apart. Thanks Edge, but I've already gone well beyond measured controlled force. I am now approaching the maximum force I am able to apply in my garage. I was hoping that there was a pinch bolt, set screw, or something that I was missing... I've unstuck 50's Mercury outboards used in salt and left to sit for decades, and I thought they were tough! Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Thanks for the responses! Nogbad - can't get past your step 1. Bike is up on the Guzzi stand. Axle nut is off, rubber cap is out, allen key tool from kit is in its place. Air gun on key tool does nothing at all. No movement. Try missing out step 1. If you have a heavy steel block and a good tube or socket in contact with the swingarm at the opposite side, a sharp, heavy blow should shift it. Block and tube is essential as it is the inertia of the block that ensures the energy isn't absorbed by the flex in the swingarm and frame. Using a piece of aluminium or copper in place of the wood will further increase the shock load from the hammer blow, so you might try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 Thanks Nogbad. I'll give it a shot tonight. I have a perfect hunk of steel (it was responsible for a back injury earlier in the year) and a nice aluminum drift. Now that I'm sure it is supposed to just slide through I'll work it out eventually. cheers, Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Thanks Nogbad. I'll give it a shot tonight. I have a perfect hunk of steel (it was responsible for a back injury earlier in the year) and a nice aluminum drift. Now that I'm sure it is supposed to just slide through I'll work it out eventually. cheers, Ryan 58353[/snapback] Don't be afraid to really hit the nut smartly and as hard as you can with a heavy hammer. You really need a flat piece of ally, copper or hardwood for the initial blow. Your assistant should be careful the block doesn't jump out of his / her grasp because it will jump! My girlfriend is only small and the sledgehammer head almost jumped out of her hands and could have landed on her toe, so a bit of luck there. But the axle did come out. I posted some pics of the same job here: Needle Roller Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 OK I have had my rear tire out for that busted pinion gear. the axle doesnt thread out but you should turn the hex head end with a ratchet. While turning the hex side you need to push/tap/hit the threaded side. Use a wood block of course, dont damage the threads. It will go through the other side this way. Once you get the threaded end through the hole or flush with it use a socket extension & a hammer to tap the threaded end through while turning the hex end with the ratchet. Use some lube while turning if you want to. It just takes some practice is all... It frustrated the hell out of me at first. Now I can do it in 5 minutes. This is probably a recomended yearly maintenance thing front & rear. While the rear wheel is out grease the shaft zerks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 If you cant get the nut off, I used a very large monkey wrench to hold the nut. The other end I used a 1/2" drive very large ratchet to turn the hex side. If you still have your factory toolbag that came with the bike the hex tool is just a 3/4" long or so piece that fits in the hex side. Use a 15mm I think socket on that piece in the hex side. Again 1/2" drive at least & a very heavy long ratchet. Dont beat the nut, use leverage. If you dont have the factory tool that fits in the hex side you can get one at the hardware store. You'll have that nut off in 2 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Rather than whacking the threads and nut, you can drill a small detente in the center of the axle as a guide for a drift. That's kind of extreme- I hope you don't have to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 Thanks folks! I'll post results of tonight's battle... Richard, much thanks, but this sucker is cemented in place. Even the air gun won't budge it. I ran the compressor down three times before the nut decided it had enough and loosened. No luck budging the axle. I have a nice alu drift (cylinder) that just fits inside the threads in the nut. Nut holds drift in place and protects threads. About 8 inches long and faced on the lathe. Time to get medieval Now where's my 50lb block of steel... Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 I can imagine your frustration. I left the bike sit with the rear wheel on the ground. Or unjacked up lol it seems like it doesnt bind up that way. I dont jack it up until the axle clears the clutch side swingarm. Then turn, grease, then push it back thru and turn it some more to work the lube in. Its hard to believe the axle wont turn at all. I'd have someone sit on the bike while I used a 1/2" drive ratchet with about a 5" extension & then put a breaker bar on the end of the ratchet. That should break the c**%sucker loose! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 VICTORY IS MINE! It wasn't a pretty battle. Those rear axles can really take a beating. End result: Axle is out, no major problems with any parts. The axle rusted up inside the left swing arm and the aluminum caliper hanger. It was stuck right proper. Tools required to complete mission: three people - one to sit on bike, one to sit on stool supporting 50lb chunk of steel (brace other side of swing arm) and one (me!) to wail on the axle with a sledge. Tried the breaker bar on the hex head but she was a no go until the axle cleared the swing arm. Then the caliper holder would just rotate. Anyway, thanks all, another happy ending! cheers Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 It wasn't a pretty battle. Say Ryan - would you recommend lubing the spindle? (just checking...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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