Martin Barrett Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 The only thing that caught my eye is the the cylinders do not appear inline, but that may be a characteristic of Guzzis??? Greedyfly 60378[/snapback] I've never had one open, but even if both rods share the same throw of the crank the con rods have to sit next to each other, the piston will sit centrally on the rod. So there will be a fore and aft difference in center line of 2x 1/2 the thickness of the con rod pluss any shiming washer thingy between. The push rod tunnel is the more obvious as they are not driven off the same lobe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 May I suggest an easy and more accurate alternative: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4778&hl= 60367[/snapback] you're good.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 The only thing that caught my eye is the the cylinders do not appear inline, but that may be a characteristic of Guzzis??? 60378[/snapback] That's the way they're built. Keeps your left knee a bit warmer than the right one. This is because Italians, who invented Bocchi ball, cast the ball with the left knee bent a little more- it's better form for the game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 Bocci, eh? I figured it musta been because most Italians "dress right" and need a wee bit more clearance on that side... Rj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 QUOTE(jrt @ Sep 15 2005, 04:57 PM) ...with a string May I suggest an easy and more accurate alternative: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4778&hl= 60367[/snapback] I'm with you JR, but you don't say what length it should be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greedyfly Posted September 16, 2005 Author Share Posted September 16, 2005 Ok, I jacked it up and put the front wheel between my legs with the bike level and with the triple clamp and steering head bolts loose there was some slight play. Adjusted the steering head so it was aligned with the frame and front tire. Then I put the tank back on, tightened the triple clamp and steering head bolts back up and put the bike on the ground. Even the forks look straight to my untrained eye, but will have that checked. I took it for a ride down my side street and in a big parking lot and the steering is definitely straighter if not perfect (just used my eyes to align everything). So I am pretty sure the damage was only cosmetic, which is what most said here and what my friends said after seeing it. So I am much happier now. I do have collision on the bike, with a deductible of $500. the parts list I gave to the dealer came back at $1619. I am not sure if I want to pay increased insurance rates so will probably buy the parts and put them on myself. Only need footpeg and two turn signal lights to be on the road with it, along with a mechanic aligning it better than I probably can. Also am thinking of getting a set of cylinder head guards from jkenny since I need one anyway. Here is the list he gave me, if anybody has bought this stuff before, please alert me if I am getting something too highly priced. 01941030 Left Cylinder Head Guard $32.25 01434361 Front Fender Section $195.74 02750600 Turn Signal Housing $39.20 X 2= $78.40 01530230 Steering Damper $323.32 (that seems high to me) 01575363 Fairing one piece $744.38 30441805 Foot Peg $48.39 01605760 Clutch Lever $117.25 (also seems high) 01769861 Left Mirror $79.53 If this is all it needs, then I will count this as a learning experience that cost me some money and gave me a chance to learn a bit about my bike. Greedyfly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 Original clutch & brake levers are crazy high prices. I made the mistake of ordering a MG lever. I think Ducati are cheaper for the same part. Then there are other aftermarket suppliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 That new fairing is a big hit. Have you tried repairers. Plastic can be welded, filled and repainted. Makes the naked bike look a sensible choice. You could always streetfighter it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 Here is the list he gave me, if anybody has bought this stuff before, please alert me if I am getting something too highly priced. 01941030 Left Cylinder Head Guard $32.25 01434361 Front Fender Section $195.74 02750600 Turn Signal Housing $39.20 X 2= $78.40 01530230 Steering Damper $323.32 (that seems high to me) 01575363 Fairing one piece $744.38 30441805 Foot Peg $48.39 01605760 Clutch Lever $117.25 (also seems high) 01769861 Left Mirror $79.53 If this is all it needs, then I will count this as a learning experience that cost me some money and gave me a chance to learn a bit about my bike. Greedyfly 60429[/snapback] I did not see the lower tripple tree in the list (I think they are about about $350). You mentioned that you biffed off one of the steering stop lugs. If you do not fix that, your damper or tank now becomes your new mechanical limit of travel. If you use your damper to be the mechanical limit, it will but put undesigned stress into the assembly/rod end. If you allow your tank to be the mechanical limit (and sooner or later it will)... For resale value alone and peace of mind that you fixed it right, I would add the lower TT to the list Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Barrett Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 I did not see the lower tripple tree in the list (I think they are about about $350). You mentioned that you biffed off one of the steering stop lugs. If you do not fix that, your damper or tank now becomes your new mechanical limit of travel. If you use your damper to be the mechanical limit, it will but put undesigned stress into the assembly/rod end. If you allow your tank to be the mechanical limit (and sooner or later it will)... For resale value alone and peace of mind that you fixed it right, I would add the lower TT to the list 60451[/snapback] Over here I think the lack of steering stop would be an MOT (yearly test for all vehicles over 3 years old) fail. I don't know if you have a simular set up over there. Prevents all sorts of unplesantness such as squashed thumbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 Over here I think the lack of steering stop would be an MOT (yearly test for all vehicles over 3 years old) fail. I don't know if you have a simular set up over there. Prevents all sorts of unplesantness such as squashed thumbs 60454[/snapback] I can only speak for New York annual inspections... I find not much in QC department for the quality and depth of inspections. My past have been only the basics; tires, signals, lights, horn and registration. My inspection last year, the kid at the Jap dealership could not enter "moto guzzi" into the computer for state tracking, so he logged me in as a Suzuki, took my money and gave me a sticker. He said "the bike had all the right stuff" but never heard of a Moto Guzzi before and wanted to know who made it. I had to laugh and it was beyond trying to educate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greedyfly Posted September 17, 2005 Author Share Posted September 17, 2005 That new fairing is a big hit. Have you tried repairers. Plastic can be welded, filled and repainted. Makes the naked bike look a sensible choice. You could always streetfighter it! 60436[/snapback] Since the fairing wasn't cracked, I am going to take it to a body shop and see about having it filled and repainted. I might be able to do the same thing with the front fender too. It is cracked but there isn't any chunks of it missing. Its more like a hairline fracture. Greedyfly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greedyfly Posted September 17, 2005 Author Share Posted September 17, 2005 I did not see the lower tripple tree in the list (I think they are about about $350). You mentioned that you biffed off one of the steering stop lugs. If you do not fix that, your damper or tank now becomes your new mechanical limit of travel. If you use your damper to be the mechanical limit, it will but put undesigned stress into the assembly/rod end. If you allow your tank to be the mechanical limit (and sooner or later it will)... For resale value alone and peace of mind that you fixed it right, I would add the lower TT to the list 60451[/snapback] Yes your're right. I need to get the triple tree also. I figure with the two turns, the footpeg, and the triple tree. The bike is road worthy. I use it to ride back and forth to work everyday, or was anyway. How hard is it to replace the triple clamp? I have looked for a howto, but haven't seen one. Greedyfly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greedyfly Posted September 17, 2005 Author Share Posted September 17, 2005 I don't think that the steering head suffers damage directly because the fork tubes below the steering head tend to bend first. Note that the fork tubes are not parallel after an impact. Look closely and you can also see that the front engine case is cracked where the bolt attaches it to the front sub-frame. Look at the spine - not straight. Frame removed from bike with digital photos and some software measurements of deflections from normal. After replacing the forks, I put 2000 miles on the bike before finding out the frame was bent. Stable the whole time and little if any pull to one side or the other. The shop manual has all of the measurements if you want to engage in that level of determination. 60339[/snapback] Where can I get a shop manual for the V11 Lemans? I am assuming it lists all the torque specifications also, so that would come in handy. Greedyfly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 re. Shop manual; You can download the shop manual for free. Do a seach on this bord and there is a link and a how to. You can also buy a CD-ROM off ebay from some guy that has compiled the manual and burned it on a CD. re. Lower TT (only if you are mechanically inclined); Having been down this road before and I would say first you need to be a quality shop stand to hold the beast up while you drop the whole front end. The padock stand will do fine if you have one. Second; take your time as you disassemble the the front end, you don't want to do more damage and you want to remember how you broke it down. since it realy needs to go back together correctly!! I needed shop assistance for removal of the lower steering bearing. The old damaged TT was destroyed in the bearing removal process by pressing out the shaft the bearing rides on. Once the shaft was free, the bearing was pressed off. The new tripple tree was lubed and the bearing pressed on easily. Sounds like a lot but the guy had it all done in about 30 minutes with most of the time spent blocking the press for correct bearing removal. You could add a new bearing to your list for simplicity but the bearing that is on there is good if you don't bugger it up and if Luigi lubed it at the factory to keep the moisture off the rollers. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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