Alex-Corsa Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Halo everybdy, I am ont the way still on tour.Lattelly had my valves and valve seats repaired (on my 1100i Sport)and now everything is in place,I will have to move on and after some km (500-700) will have to retighten the heads, right !?? If anyone can tell me what the exact torgue should be for the screws that tighten the cylinders i would be very appreciate. Since I am on the road I have limmited acces to internet and the time is also like that, But I´ll be back and check things out. Somewhere before a couple of months or so was a pic. posted that showed the torgue for all bolts there , but due to limmited time I ain`t able to perform correct search. Mny thanks in advance and Cheers to all P.S. If I recon correct it has to be 30nm or 4.2kg what is right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Alex, I'd certainly re-torque the heads and re-set the valve clearances. It'd be a standard assumption that new head gaskets went in with the valve and seat work. The spec is 40-42 Nm (32-34 ft-lb.) for "Nut and stud bolt for head-cylinder tie-rods" according to Service Manual MOTO GUZZI S.p.A. 03/01. Lex has a comprehensive write-up for all that's involved in the process (including good photo's) here: http://www.geocities.com/motoguzzi1064/Guz...alvesTorque.htm Have a great tour! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Corsa Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 Thanks for the info I have checked it out.\ I finnally went to the Daes-Mototec and Roland Daes had the whole service done. I had the chance to see the MGS01 and as well have the chance to dyno the Guzzi and test various chips and whole lotta stuff.Definnatelly and by far the BEST intergrated Guzzi service in Germany in the Daes shop, I would suggest it to everyone. Will post a full report about it in some days that I'll be home and re organized. At the moment the Guzzi is synchronized revitalised and runs almost perfect. I say almost cause we syncronized the motor and at the airbox where these stupid holes that Dynotec does and the motor was having a bit of a cough and after would went out.I have closed the whoes returning the airbox to the original condition and the motor holds idle perfect now , but is a bit too high when it really warms up. Anyone can describe me how to adjust the idle whithout haveing to resynchronise the injection????Pls describe clearlly so that I understand. Cheers to all , till soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 Alex, you can drop the idle RPM without affecting throttle body balance with the allen-screw idle stops at the TBs. They come stock with one on each TB, but many (including myself) have backed off the one on the right-hand side so that only the one on the left controls both sides. The one on the left is under the TB, just above and in front of the white knob on the throttle connector rod. Make sure the little wheel underneath the right-hand side TB that raises the idle with the handlebar control lever still spins freely after you've backed off the idle stop screw(s). If not, it's also adjustable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Corsa Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 O.K. I have seen the mechanic fiddle with this little allen screw on the left side of that injector body, if that's the same we mean. I have not noticed any screw like that on the right side so I guess there is only one , right?? Thanks once again, now I can sleep at night.. \ Cheers " little wheel underneath the right-hand side TB that raises the idle with the handlebar control lever still spins freely after you've backed off the idle stop screw(s)." This one I didn't quite understood.I have to see it on the bike , can't remember this screw at all, any better description or pic ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 Alex, it's common practice to remove the idle stop screw on the right altogether, so you may not have it. The little wheel that works with the idle advance on the handlebar is actually a roller, about 6mm in diameter. If you look underneath the right-hand TB and open the throttle with the twist-grip, it'll swing into view. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Corsa Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 Thanks so much once again, will check it out alltogether tomorrow and if any questions I'll post'em right here. Thanks a lot once again\ \ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest trispeed Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 Hello all, I have a 2004 V11 sport. I have no idle screw on the right side, nor is the TB tapped for one. I just hooked up the old manometer and sync'd 'em in about 45 seconds! easy, peasy BTW, I just checked my head bolts (@ 650 miles) and 4 were around 20lb/ft. Glad I checked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Corsa Posted October 27, 2005 Author Share Posted October 27, 2005 Hello all, I have a 2004 V11 sport. I have no idle screw on the right side, nor is the TB tapped for one. I just hooked up the old manometer and sync'd 'em in about 45 seconds! easy, peasyBTW, I just checked my head bolts (@ 650 miles) and 4 were around 20lb/ft. Glad I checked! Dunno the trick with the manometer???/ Anyway I have removed the right side screw , the allen heat was kicked of his but so the dcrew wouldn't move , so I cut it.Now everything works better, Thanks a lot once again "ratchethack" for your great advice. Would buy you a beer if you were here but at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Por nada, Alex. Glad to help. If you do a search on "manometer", you'll find instructions on how to balance TBs like a real "shade-tree" mechanic. My manometer cost $4 for the vinyl tubing and works like a Champ. Nice find on the 20 ft-lb. head bolts , Trispeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Corsa Posted October 28, 2005 Author Share Posted October 28, 2005 Alright, thanks again "ratchethack", I'll do a search and "enrich" my Guzzi knowledge , very much needed. What's your opinon about twin spark , I have heared a lot of conroversy on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Alex, I assume you're referring to twin spark conversion. I consider myself less than marginally qualified to offer an opinion. But since you asked, it'll take more'n the likes o' THAT to stop me from offering one in reply! (How's that for a disclaimer?) If you ask those who've done the conversion on their own bikes, you'll no doubt get a comprehensive list of compelling (and relatively expensive) justifications. But it seems that if you ask those with no dog in the fight, the justifications tend to run fewer, smaller, and further between. Now if your access to a consistently decent grade of fuel is doubtful, well... then we have an entirely different kettle o' fish. Sorry, that's about all I've got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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