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Billet foot controls


Murray

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I have heard that in extreme cases the foot peg and brake lever can actually bend the rear of the frame.

I don't see how- they are made of weak, brittle aluminum. I guess anything is possible though. I broke the toe-part off on mine on purpose, then drilled it out, tapped it and reinstalled with a low grade bolt. I'm not sure it does any good, but at least now it has a place that it is supposed to break off at.

 

They seem to do a roaring trade of selling bottles with bits of lime in them.

In England???!! Dude, you should laws against such blasphemy. At the least, someone should thump some sense into them.

 

Do you have pictures?

Not yet, but I'll get some up today or tomorrow.,

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dlaing-

Here's what my set looks like. Not so polished, but I've got the sizing worked out. You will appreciate that the toe lever is made out of an old set of aluminum 'monkey bars' from an old laboratory we were gutting out. The toe piece is extra long so I can easily 'cover' it with my foot.

Eventually, I'll take all this off and finish it, but it looks ok as is- maybe a bit clunky.

I had to shape the shift lever by hand because of the compound curve- damn, that took a long time.

Evoluzione kit and unfinished brake lever:

brakelever.jpg

 

Brake side:

RH3.jpg

 

RH2.jpg

 

RH1.jpg

 

And shifter side:

LH2.jpg

 

LH1.jpg

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Couple of stupid questions. Is that gearleaver all one piece? If so why? To me the obious thing to do would be make the shaft out to the toe rubber holder out of one piece and bolt it on some way to another block which contians the mountings for the pivot piont and and gear linkage. At the rate things are going I might be looking seriously at doing it myself.

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dammit my reply got lost.

I gotta go to sleep- the gist of the message was yes, it's two pieces not including the toe. Yes there's a better way, but I haven't figured it out. I used a ten ton jack to make the compound bend and ruined three pieces before I got it right.

You will find you need to make the downward bend much more acute in order for your toe to rest comfortably under/over the end of the lever. Also, it is easy to foul the porkchop...

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I was thinking of trying to keep it striaght and bolting the shaft to the top of the pivot block (for the serious want of tha better term). It won't be as integrated but I think could be made to look industrial enough to be reasonble. The 1100 sport appears to have a little more room to move in the area athough the gearleaver V11/1100sport design looks to be identical. Dunno it will be a intresting project if I go this way. Ideally I need acess to a small milling machine.

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It's three pieces. You can see the seam in the picture- there's a U shaped (innermost) piece and then 'the rest of it' and then the toe piece. The only reason I did it like that is that I happened to have the aluminum in about those sizes. I didn't have a single alum. piece big enough to carve out the whole thing. I considered doing it as you say, but I didn't come up with a good mounting system.

The compound curve was the problem for me. The lever reaches forward, bends to the left (outside) and bends down. When you move the toe piece back, and keep the relative position of the toe piece, you have to really increase the severity of the downward bend otherwise it fouls the porkchop. I started with a single curve then put the piece in a 10 ton jack to give it the second curve. Three pieces and a torch later, I managed to bend one without breaking it. I'm sure there's a better solution than mine...I just happened to be bored.

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