MotoG5 Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 Hello All, Well, I found my "clicking" noise coming from the rear drive area. The rear wheel bearing on the bevel drive side was bad. It was not seated all the way into the wheel race cup. The spacer was just a little too loose in the wheel between the bearings. After seating the new bearings it feels just right. The suspect bearing had developed a bad notch and was very rough at 7k miles.My dealer had done a very good job of lubracating the splines,drive shaft joints, ect. So I will wait until the next service to relube the U-joints. Now that I have had the rear wheel off I see how the rear end is set up. Very diffrent form the older bikes indeed. Later Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 Ray, Was your bearing failure on the brake side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John O'Sullivan Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 Ray, I also had a dose of bearing failure, the exact same location but my problem was the spacer/bushing was putting lateral pressure on the bearing when the spindle/axle was torqued to the specified 120nm. The wheel would not rotate exept under pressure, so I reduced the torque on the spindle/axle after putting locktite on the securing nut. On replacement the bearing race cup is a little big so I have used some locktite to hold the bearing also. This has cured the problem as I have had the wheel off again for a new tire and everything is fine. The new tire recommended is a Dunlop 205 Sports Tourer, anyone have any experience with them? Regards, Another John Scura #150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotoG5 Posted May 9, 2003 Author Share Posted May 9, 2003 doc, It was on the drive spline side. The bearing on the brake side was fine. John, The wheel spindle on my bike was set to the factory spec of 120nm judging by the effort it took to break the nut loose. As my troque wrench only goes up to 75 ft/lbs this is what I set it to for reassembly. 120nm is around 88 ft/lbs. Given the range of error in most ckick type torque wrenches I am sure this is close enough. There was no problem with wheel rotation before or after assembly. What did you back your setting off to? Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John O'Sullivan Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 Ray, I guess it is about the same as yours I did not use the torque wrench on it last time as I used locktite on the nut and tightened while spinning the wheel, when the wheel started to get "tight" I backed off a little to get free wheel spin. The locktite gave me plenty of exercise when I took off the wheel to replace the tire, will put on a little less this time to avoid the HERNIA Regards and safe riding, Another John Scura #150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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