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popping off the tranny side-cover *** spring update***


Garsdad

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Hello to all.

 

My elbow and wirst have healed to the point that I can wrench, so I am checking/changing the shift spring in the Tenni just to be on the safe side. Just one of a few minor details I wish to get done now.

 

Anyway, I have read all the threads about making the swap, and they all say "remove the tranny side plate" or cover plate, depending on the author. I have removed all the obvious stuff, and it released easily from the case, but it seems to be hung up a bit near the bottom.

 

I don't have a shop manual for the bike (I love blind wrenching) and I don't know what I missed.

 

Anyone have a detailed list of what to remove/loosen when doing this? I assumed that once the allen bolts where removed, that was it, as everything else was attached to the cover. Is this wrong?

 

Thank you,

 

Garsdad

 

 

 

****************** Never Mind.... I got it. ******************************

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Well what was it? Can anyone else fall into this trap? Was it the allen bolt that needs the cut down key? :huh2:

 

I use a ball-end allen wrench on those, so I don't have to cut one down.

 

No, it was just a little too familiar with the locating pin. Had I known it was there, I would have tugged a little harder and gotten it off of there, but without knowing what I was dealing with I was hessitant to apply greater force.

 

I have taken some pictures of the whole mess, some of which I will share later. I have a 16mm boss, and in only 1800 miles there are wear marks and scoring on it from the spring binding. I'm glad I decided to just do this instead of waiting for it to break- it is much easier in my own garage than on the side of the highway. Also, I didn't think to carry circlip pliers in my tool kit, so I would have been SOL anyway.

 

To anyone who thinks it can't happen to you, do yourself a favor and tear it apart to be sure. I don't know how much longer the spring would have lasted- maybe thousands of miles more- but I do know that I have a lot more faith in my Tenni to not leave me stranded with this checked and repaired.

 

I was quoted $70 for a new rachet, so I will file mine to the proper size and put it back in. Does anyone who has done this know if it is a hardened steel piece that is pressed in there, and if so how did you re-harden it after filing it down?

 

Ryan

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I have a 16mm boss

 

I was quoted $70 for a new rachet, so I will file mine to the proper size and put it back in. Does anyone who has done this know if it is a hardened steel piece that is pressed in there, and if so how did you re-harden it after filing it down?

7boss.jpg-thumb_269_202.jpgGood job you checked. You were on the road to ruin.

There was talk that springs with bigger coils were fitted, or were available, at some point to remedy the 16mm problem, as well as making the proper sized pawl arm available.

 

Best solution is to file the thing down to 15mm, it's soft. I'd suggest fitting a new spring while you're at it, as the one you've got must be stressed.

If you went through all the threads on this, I suppose you saw the pics of the re-shaped boss? All worked fine, though eventually I fitted new parts as I got them on warranty.

20bosses.jpg-thumb_269_202.jpg

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OK, update!!!

 

I got ready to file, but before I did I wanted to get a pic of the scoring on the old boss. Also, I pulled out the new spring to have a look.

 

The new spring is significantly larger than the old one.

 

oldandnewspring.jpg

 

The one on the left, the old one, measures .677 inches (17.183 mm). The new one is .756 inches (19.188 mm).

 

The difference between the original spring and the correct boss (at 15mm) is .086 inches. The difference between the over-size boss and the new spring is .125 inches. I feel comfortable that there will be no binding with the new spring and the un-filed boss, so I think I will leave well enough alone and just change the spring. The new spring is of a heavier wire as well.

 

originalcombo.jpg

This is the original spring.

 

newcombo.jpg

Here is the new spring on the old boss. As you can see, there is greater clearance and I doubt there will be any coil bind.

 

Here is a pic of the scoring on the boss with just 1800 miles...

 

scoring.jpg

 

A few more shots of the job...

 

I use a "high-tech" device to drain the oil without dripping on my exhaust... I hate the smell of buring gear oil.

 

garbagebag.jpg

 

And finally, does this look like an excessive amount of metal in the bottom of the case?

 

excessivemetalsludge.jpg

 

Ryan

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And finally, does this look like an excessive amount of metal in the bottom of the case?

No, that's the usual state of play.

2spgears.jpg

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I bought my scura with 9600 miles and have put 1k of my own on it, and as far as i know the previous owner hasn't had a problem with the shifting. I'm curious as to if i need to check my spring and boss. I have the service manual so i'm not that worried about the work. What i would like to know is if I need a new gasket or if it is sealant on the side cover. Thanks for any info guys.

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  • 5 months later...

My new spring just cam from Cannon Racecraft / Bonnie.

THis sucker is small. From all the photos I has seen prior I thought it to be like 4-1/2" long. This thing is only 2-1/2" Is this the correct spring?

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Guest ratchethack

My new spring just cam from Cannon Racecraft / Bonnie.

THis sucker is small. From all the photos I has seen prior I thought it to be like 4-1/2" long. This thing is only 2-1/2" Is this the correct spring?

Yes. Bonnie gives good spring. ;)

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thanx for the info. now i have something to due this weekend

 

Is there a definitive year/model breakdown or specific build date of what's affected (afflicted?) with the need for this update, or is it mostly random, w/ any v11 being catch as catch can?

 

Just curious as to whether or not I need to bother with this on my '03 LM...

 

Ride on,

:mg:

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