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Hi gstallons,

all five relay sockets have four spade connectors; none of them has a fifth connector. I posted a picture of the relay sockets a few posts up.

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I have gone to uninsulated butt connectors and heat shrink . This is the only approved method for FoMoco wiring repairs . I have done it for 3 years now and will never go back to anything else . Get t

Yep, the green/white power input to Relay#2 is what would come from the 5th pin of Relay#1.  Not many micro relays in the world have the rated capacity to handle that current through the weaker N

I am with docc . If someone else has been fixing things , they have probably f'd with this too .  Check everything .   Disclaimer : I am not smart , just full of ignorant mistakes and learned fro

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My red frame and black frame have 5 connectors at the # 1 position .  

Check underneath the block and see if the wire has dropped out and is touching something . 

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13 minutes ago, gstallons said:

My red frame and black frame have 5 connectors at the # 1 position .  

Check underneath the block and see if the wire has dropped out and is touching something . 

Or perhaps, when you investigate the relay bases to perform the Kiwi_Roy tightening procedure, you will find someone has pulled that 5th connector from Relay#1 and wired it hot to where it powers  Relay#2. Essentially eliminating the weak NC contact/ 5th pin of Relay#1, but leaves all of that load (especially the headlight) on while cranking.

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It’s a little hard to get clear pic, but here is the bottom of the socket strip. #1 is on the right. Only four wires going in. The wiring looks really clean.

 

7B6EB9CF-CA16-4E53-A167-C79C2AB8249C.jpeg

 

 

DA9354F9-24AE-4C87-A7C3-CC0E78CC3EDB.jpeg

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There it is. Some PO, or their "technician" modified the wiring by using that nasty ScotchLok to defeat the 5th pin "load shedding" function and simply connect the power input to Relay#1 with the power input to Relay#2.

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3 hours ago, docc said:

There it is. Some PO, or their "technician" modified the wiring by using that nasty ScotchLok to defeat the 5th pin "load shedding" function and simply connect the power input to Relay#1 with the power input to Relay#2.

Wow. Thanks so much. You guys are amazing! To me it just looks like a bunch of spaghetti. Why would they do this? And should I leave it be or put back it to the original configuration? The bike starts right up as is. The bike has an LED headlight, perhaps that causes less of a load?

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On the early V11 Sports, the entire load on Relay#2 (including the headlight) is fed through the weaker NC contact of Relay#1. Running a High Current OMRON has not always been a known solution, so these folks just bypassed that function by combining the power to both relays.  Relay #1 will no longer be stressed on that contact since it is  bypassed.

Sure the LED draws less. I am not sure if it is bad for, say, the tachometer to experience that drain from cranking then some kind of inrush current. Or if that inrush current is any higher than the NC contact reconnecting in the unaltered design.

Someone else should comment on those ScotchLok connections. I've always heard they are frowned upon. If you were to leave it wired that way, I would think a more positive connection would be desirable.

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To put it back to stock is it simply a matter of removing the wire coming from the ScotchLok connector from the socket #2 light relay and replacing it in the middle connector slot in the #1 starter relay socket?

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Well, you will need to replace the connector that fits into the relay base. Unless it is still part of the wire to Relay2?

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13 minutes ago, docc said:

Well, you will need to replace the connector that fits into the relay base. Unless it is still part of the wire to Relay2?

I would crimp or solder a spade connector to the wire. But other than that, is it reasonable to assume that just moving that one wire out of socket #2 and back to socket #1would do it? I guess there’s no harm in trying. I can always put it back to where it’s at now.

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This old post actually has a diagram showing the headlight relay bypassing the starter relay:

EDIT: however, that diagram looks very wonky to me... it bears almost no similarity to the factory wiring schematic, so I'm not sure I would trust it as any sort of reference. HOWEVER, if the drawing in that post is meant to illustrate result of modified wiring, then I would be wary that something similar may have happened to Kane's bike, which is to say, I would be cautious "fixing" that one connection on relay #1 without being sure other things weren't shifted around as well.

__Jason

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5 minutes ago, jtucker said:

This old post actually has a diagram showing the headlight relay bypassing the starter relay:

__Jason

So, that discussion is about using separate relays and direct wiring for the headlights, but not about the existing relays and how they are wired in the factory harness.

That wiring actually bypasses both Relay#1/Start Relay and Relay#2/"Headlamp" Relay to supply power through a dedicated headlamp harness from the battery.

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2 hours ago, Kane said:

I would crimp or solder a spade connector to the wire. But other than that, is it reasonable to assume that just moving that one wire out of socket #2 and back to socket #1would do it? I guess there’s no harm in trying. I can always put it back to where it’s at now.

Yep, the green/white power input to Relay#2 is what would come from the 5th pin of Relay#1. 

Not many micro relays in the world have the rated capacity to handle that current through the weaker NC contact, but your G8HE OMRON will do it.

Once that ScotchLok is off, try to make sure it has not damaged the power wire to Relay#1. By design, they cut into the strands.

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