BrianG Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 I think you have to get a new bung welded in. 62238[/snapback] What is Cliff using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F344 Posted October 6, 2005 Author Share Posted October 6, 2005 What is Cliff using? 62239[/snapback] You provide your own sensor and threaded collet, or "bung." He has the calibration numbers for the 02 sensor he has on his bike. I couldn't find that one so I'm in the process of calibrating mine now. It isn't too bad, but it does involve a bit of fiddling. I'm pretty close now. I think I'll have it set tomorrow. BTW: I'll be riding the V11 at the Buttonwillow Raceway this Monday for the Italian Bike Day. Is anybody else going to be there? That would be Buttonwillow, California, USA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 You provide your own sensor and threaded collet, or "bung." He has the calibration numbers for the 02 sensor he has on his bike. I couldn't find that one so I'm in the process of calibrating mine now. It isn't too bad, but it does involve a bit of fiddling. I'm pretty close now. I think I'll have it set tomorrow. 62240[/snapback] My 2000 V-11 Sport has bungs in the headers already, so finding the right sensor would be ideal. Is there one for the 10mm bung? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 Lots of good info here: http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/ Like this: The Bosch LSU 4 sensor is a pump cell sensor like the NTK L1H1. The sensor requires a bung with an 18 mm diameter hole with 1.5 threads/mm pitch (this is one of the standard lambda sensor & sparkplug base sizes)." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 I don't think any sensors will fit the 10mm thread. It may only be for attaching diagnostic equipment. I took the header down to an exhaust shop with a nut. Only cost about $20 bucks to get the nut welded. Make sure you have any flanges that need to be on, on!! You won't get them on after the nut is welded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 I don't think any sensors will fit the 10mm thread. 62246[/snapback] And why is this not surprising <_> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 I got a pair of brand new NTK L1H1 off of eBay two years ago. Still got 'em around here somewhere if someone wants one reasonably cheap. I paid $190 for the pair. Make me an offer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 I took the header down to an exhaust shop with a nut. Only cost about $20 bucks to get the nut welded. 62246[/snapback] If the header pipes are stainless steel, does the material of the nut/bung have to match? If so, what is the actual material of the header? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 Make sure you have any flanges that need to be on, on!! You won't get them on after the nut is welded. 62246[/snapback] I was thinking of placing the bungs in the front tubes of the cross-over. The Bosch LSU 4 sensor is electrically heated and is used in the tail-pipe sniffer that is an optional part of the LM-1 unit, so proximity to the exhaust port seems to be non-critical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 I don't think any sensors will fit the 10mm thread. It may only be for attaching diagnostic equipment. 62246[/snapback] Well here we have the answer from the horses mouth! Brian, The sensors that are compatible with the LM-1 can only be screwed to a 18mm bung. Regards, Felipe Saez Innovate Motorsports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 If the header pipes are stainless steel, does the material of the nut/bung have to match? If so, what is the actual material of the header? 62279[/snapback] The nut does not have to match if you weld using Inco-Weld A or equivalent electrode. For TIG you want Inconel Filler 82. Basically any 70-30 Ni/Cr. No idea what the header grade is, but 304L would be fine for the nut. Hot stainless to stainless threads can gall and pick up. The ideal thread lube to prevent this is Molykote P37. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 the sensor shouldn't be to close to the heads, it can overheat. And then you have to buy a new one:-) I have a Innovate lm1 too, nice thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 The nut does not have to match if you weld using Inco-Weld A or equivalent electrode. For TIG you want Inconel Filler 82. Basically any 70-30 Ni/Cr. No idea what the header grade is, but 304L would be fine for the nut. Hot stainless to stainless threads can gall and pick up. The ideal thread lube to prevent this is Molykote P37. 62306[/snapback] Thanks Nogbad! I have NO idea what this means but I'm printing it and taking it to my welder! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Lots of good info here:http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/ And the way the conversation was headed,,,this blurb, from the above, possibly ignored, site is important, of course it would be helpful, but not likely easy, if you can measure the temperature of the pipe.... Wideband Sensor Positioning The wideband sensor must be carefully placed in order to prevent damage to the sensor itself and to maximise accuracy. Also, if you use the sensor's output directly (via the simulated narrowband output) to drive your ECU then you should be doubly careful. Please follow all of these "rules" : * The sensor should always be placed on the engine side of a catalytic converter, unless you are testing the effectiveness of the convertor itself. * The gas temperature to the sensor should never exceed 850 degrees C (about 1560 degrees Fahrenheit). * The sensor should never be run without power to the WB unit (a hot sensor burns off carbon residues) * Always have the long axis of the sensor perpendicular to the gas flow (stops sensor clogging) * Position the sensor vertically or at most between 10 o'clock to the 2 o'clock position (this avoids cracking the internal ceramic structure should moisture condense internally) * We don't recommend using a short sections of exhaust pipe shoved up your tailpipe. A specially welded additional bung is the best mounting strategy. The sensor reads the partial pressure of gases in the exhaust and infers the AFR, rather than by measuring some magical AFR directly. This may be an issue on forced induction, and in particular, on turbo-charged engines. * AFRs will indicate richer than they are, causing you to run leaner than you think. * Lean AFR's will be richer (or less lean) than indicted. A solution is to ensure you locate your sensor away from the turbo, and certainly on the exhaust (low pressure) side of the turbo rather than the engine side. Edit Note that InnovateMotorSports say, "The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor hexagon) should not exceed 500 oC or 900 oF." And there is further reading that indicates that if too cold the reading will be off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Thanks for this! Very useful stuff, here. Innovate Technologies (the LM-1 supplier) presents all of this in it's instructions EXCEPT the 10:00-2:00 positioning part. I'll have to watch that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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