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After years of reading about the difficulty of this task I though i'd attack my first one by engineering the issue. The tool shown can be made by anyone with a hacksaw,drill and file and 100 mm of 50x2mm wall square. Something with a little bigger ID would be better but I used what was on hand and thats the reason for the end slots to allow for the fact that the tube id was 46 and the bearing OD was 47mm. The radial slot is for the 3/4 spanner to hold the bearing puller as you crank up the slide hammer nut. When you have moved the bearing 10mm or so you can slide hammer it out easily or just keep cranking the wrenches. The steel plate was just scrap I had laying around and when I have the time I'll make a decent looking dedicated one. On the bench is one of the other size bearing puller adaptors for reference to style of puller and a hammer for docc. The key is to apply a decent load to the bearing puller and slider hammer combo via the wrenches and then give the swingarm boss a few light taps just in one area is good enough and the bearing then releases. I used my copper hammer for the task.This is an important technique which I learned removing Ducati Crank gears. Load up the puller then a "tap" with the hammer and drift and they pop free. Exactly the same here. Time to remove? as the header says 30 seconds. Ciao

Pulled the tape off the painted parts today. I'd rate the finish quality as an 8.5 out of 10 which is about all you can expect from an amateur that hasn't sprayed 2K paint for 35 years so I'll call it done. For anyone thats contemplating whether to powder coat or paint 2K here is the difference. I realise this is straight off the gun compared to 20 year old powder but I've cleaned and polished the powder part and the protected parts of the frame aren't really much better. If you want a tough and glossy finish with real depth you can't beat 2K, the powder just doesnt compare and thats the reason I repainted the side plates and front support. I just got tired of the lack of depth and richness to the finish. The battery tray and rear swingarm are next in satin black. My original arm has quite a bit of weld spatter on it from the factory which is pretty pathetic really and the finish is quite poor now esp on the round tubes where the original rear hugger rubbed the surface. 2K V powder Ciao

Quite! The Quat D always looked like some sort of tween-wars biscuit tin with a couple of holes punched in it! I could never work out how it was supposed to work either!? As for pipe wrap? Just don't get me started.......

My fairing originally had a really thin rubber sleeve/tube around the opening but it tore when I took the fairing off once. The closest amd cheapest replacement was the black fuel line. It just looks a little beefier but dows the trick.

Hello brenwin, the fairing on my Ballabio was also vibrating at certain revs. I also saw that the space between the fairing opening and the headlight ring was tight and that was where the vibes were coming from. I bought a piece of black fuel line hose, cut a slit in it and slipped it around the fairing opening and that did the trick for me.