malengi

I would say you have hit the nail on the head. Japanese manufacturers can cut corners with the best of them

One other thing..........Japanese dealers are notorious for winding back the clocks . I look at almost every V11 I can on websites here and it is amazing that no matter the age they all seem to never have over 15 000 km's on them . Strange that

As someone living in Japan for the last 20 years i can tell you it is not that difficult to pass a registration inspection for an old V11. A little pricey, but no worse than my old home, Australia. What you may find is that Japan is not the rich country it once was. Wages are quite low as is the cost of most V11's. The reason for people getting rid of these bikes is the crazy repair , service and spare part costs for any vehicle. Hence I do my own repairs and buy parts from overseas. Due to lack of space and unwillingness to try what they are not fully trained for, almost no Japanese works on their own vehicles. The bikes are cheaper here on the whole than other countries. Why that bike has such a high price tag is beyond me.

Thanks for the advice and the concern Will take it all on board and take it slowly and precisely on the install.may just have got lucky with the slap dash clutch replacement 20 000 km ago

Thanks for the replies. The damaged spline is from a used gearbox I just bought so I do not know the reason for the damage. Looks like i may have to swap it for my old shaft with good splines. The dots I am clear on but thanks for saying it needs to go over both parts of the spline . Anyone know the torque setting off hand? Guzzi 323 you make perfect sense Cheers

I am in the process of changing out my gearbox ( large loss of teeth on previous one) and I just realised that I had paid no attention to seperating the drive shaft from the rear of the box. My question is this does the driveshaft only go over the first spline (which is easy but illogical) or does it go over both splines which seems to necessitate a large hammer. (not that I have anything against the use of a large hammer) My memory is not what it used to be and the damaged splines close to the body on the replacement gearbox lead me to believe it is one spline only but I am happy to be proved wrong. Cheers

If you have no luck I can get a set from a rosso mandello (black with footpegs) from here in Japan. I have no idea of the quality but look good in the pictures. The paint could be faded and chipped though and rubber is how you would expect for the age Cost about 150 US dollars plus shipping. No idea how much shipping is. Look in better shape than the ebay one

I have to agree. I spent 2 months up there 20 years ago and prefer it to the Himalaya. Had to leave when Bill Clinton sent over a missile to take out Osama bin Laden near Peshawar and missed Though for bragging rights you can only get a picture of the worlds highest motorable road if you are in Ladakh. Such a beautiful part of the world. If you ever do the Himalaya you have to try Sach pass. Hasn"t been open that long and is by far the toughest way into the high Himalaya. God knows how I kept 5 Enfields going through that trip

Been riding India for the past 30 years. Once it gets under your skin it is pretty hard to shake it off. Would definitely like to try Mexico and South America someday

Hello all It has been awhile since I last posted so i thought I would share a quick video of a trip i just finished in India to let you see the beauty and craziness if you ever decide to ride there. The bikes: 350cc Enfields Distance: Around 2000km in 10 days People: My wife , 7 year old daughter and 2 good friends. Hope you enjoy. https://youtu.be/RZnSiDziuK4

Paradiso After searching deep in the internet I found the answer you just gave Thanks to you and all the others who contributed. And yes , it is the best and easiest way

Thanks guys Got the tool but crabbed the frame so the engine is horizontal. Made a little tool today which I will try out on Sunday. If it is successful I will post to let others know about it. if anyone has ideas though, I am all ears

Hi. Just wondering if anyone had a good and easy technique for putting the clutch springs back in place on a v11 2001 2 plater. For the life of me I cannot see a simple way. Would love to get it finished as the weather is perfect for riding

Not to make you worry but I recently bought a v11 that appeared to have been sitting around quite a while due to the cracking in the tyres. It had the exact same symptoms you have just described where the clutch would not fully disengage I was also of the belief that a worn clutch would cause it to fail to engage not fail to disengage. However after biting the bullet and pulling the gearbox yesterday I found that one of the clutch faces had completely broken apart and sheared off. My theory at this point is that the clutch face somehow binds itself to the metal surface when left for long periods of time. But this is still a theory. I hope you don"t have to pull the gearbox to fix the problem But if you do the crabbing method works a treat. Good luck

Chin pad takes less than a minute to remove. Not very heavy either. Am thinking of covering mine in leather, but far more pressing things are on the menu first

Good suggestion. At the moment it is working but a closer look on the weekend when I have time wouldn't hurt

I am envious of the members here with sensible speed limits. Now if I could only get a hold of the bmw brake pads and translate it into Japanese, I may be let off on a technicality

Thanks all . I seem to have it sorted . This bike is multiple owner with no service history but at a good price. It seems the old owner(s) had taken out any washers as the switch got older to try and make a connection. Just spent some time judiciously filing brass washers to get the ideal space and that seems to have done the trick. And Kiwi Roy this trick I just sorted for the manometer may be of interest to you as I was following your instructions. I found the thread pitch on the grease nipple to be wrong here in Japan, so I had to come up with some other method. Bought some nail type concrete anchors in stainless steel, pulled out the nail and had a ready made hole with the bonus that the hoses could be kept further away from the heads. Seems to work well. I hated my first post just being a cry for help so wanted to give something back. This is truly a great forum and the bikes can be truly exasperating. That is when I haven't got the ear to ear grin on my face from riding it!

Just confirmed relay is working by the following method. Took switch out . Attatched to it's wire touched plunger to exhaust very gently and got green light and fuel pump start with click in the third relay . Depressed switch plunger while still touching exhaust and got second click and loss off green light Repeated several times with same result. At the moment I am leaning towards some mechanical malfunction in the gear box.

Would you be able to give me some guidance as to how to do that? at this stage all I have done with the third relay is replace with a new omron

Thanks for all the insight everyone. After both multimeter and test light tests with switch both in and out of the bike it is fairly conclusive that the switch and wiring system is fine. Seems like a dig in the gearbox is on the cards this weekend

Kiwi Roy that was my way of thinking as well. Hope i don't have to go digging around in the gearbox for a loose part. Anyway i will do the tests tomorrow and hopefully all will be revealed. As i said in my first post it is a brand new switch.

Got the omrons last week. Thanks again for the advice. Hope to report good news when this cold snap ends and I can feel my fingers to work on the bike

Thanks for the reply. Will try it out when I buy a new test light. Can it be done with a multimeter? The crimping part has already been done