badmotogoozer
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Posts posted by badmotogoozer
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Checked the ones that came out of my bike when I went to SB's. Only the one was flatted, the one for the clutch slave. Bike is an '01 Spurt.
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clutch slave is ball bearing seal. Grind this one to match the profile of the stock bleeder. No need to "dimple" it, and don't overtighten
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I've always thought the QuatD made the bike look like it had a full diaper.
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My friend was just telling me about a trip he and his son took to Germany. The son remarked that there were lots and lots of old women but hardly any old men. The realization of why that was hit him like a ton of bricks. As did visiting cemeteries in Normandy.
Let us hope that nothing like that is ever allowed to happen again.
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Watch your back, Richard, watch your back. (see sig below)
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They sure coulda used you in '01 Guzzirider. Judging from the complete lack of grease my bike left the factory with.
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If it's a shop stand you're looking for, that will get the bike up off the ground to a comfy level - I absolutely LOVE my Kendon stand. Folds up and stands in the corner when not in use.
I've also had my bike fall over on the factory stand for no apparent reason - I'd really be worried about moving it around on that 3rd wheel...
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As it turned out, I did not paint it a "candy" color. In fact, it's a metallic Chevrolet color.
I stand corrected! Thought it was just a dark photo... still ain't black 'tho!
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You've done a right bang up job on that! Though I much prefer the bare tank. I've never liked candy paint on bikes. Just looks wrong to my eyes. But then again, any bike that isn't black on metal looks wrong to my eyes...
cheers,
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Better to use a silicone based grease rather than a petroleum based grease. Not knowing the composition of the puck material, I'd go with silicone to not worry about deterioration.
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Both mine split last summer - right around the pipe in a spiral. Welded them up and they were fine this summer, just a little uglier.
I've had the Stucci cross on for years and was sure to tweak things on install so there was no stress on the pipes when tightened up. I think it is just shitty materials/welds on the stock bits more than anything. Both cracks started at the point where the stock weld ends/meets underneath the pipe. I heard both crack on the same day within blocks of each other. Heavy traffic and she got hot - Ting! Ting! Started sputtering too.
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Both were slated to be crashed in the filming and then returned to MG USA.
dh
Where they will be lightly buffed and sold as new.
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Yes - ball bearing is correct. New speed bleeder must have its point ground flat to match the profile of the stock bleeder.
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Something steam powered would be nice.
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I've got a stump for her.
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What some of the local boys have been up to. Replica steamer built by Paul Brodie, who also built the Excelsior board track racer replica recently.
cheers
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gotta be the honda cub 50.
most important - it changed motorcycling form a fringe group to something that appealed to and was attainable by the masses.
coolest - well the million+ people that bought them thought they were cool. Even if we don't.
strongest - did you see the TV show where they ran the thing hard with only used deep frier oil in the case, then dropped it off a 3 story building. Still ran. Defy any other bike to do this.
most well know - does anyone not know what one is?? I would doubt that there is a more well known bike ever.
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I had the same problem from new. I got one of the "greaseless" V11s. What I learned:
Don't force it, you will do damage. I did.
Take it apart and clean the rust/crud off the spring and ball, lube with trailer bearing grease or white lithium, and reassemble.
Fixed for good.
cheers,
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ditto! no hurry...
cheers
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Turkey roaster.
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Actually there is some damping on the min setting. Not much but noticeable difference when you take it off completely. Steve - you should take yours off and see how it feels when you operate it by hand. Mine felt like there was gravel inside when it started leaking - a fair resistance, certainly not smooth actuation. You have to have it off to feel it.
Hate for the bloody thing to seize up at a most inopportune time...
cheers
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came stock on my '01 spurt.
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Did you grind the internal end of the speed bleeder flat before installing it? If not was it difficult to get it to close? I did this and buggered my slave cylinder. If the level of your M/C drops as you pull clutch repeatedly there is a good chance the body of the slave cracked, and that is where your pressure loss may be. There is a little round ball bearing the original bleeder seats against that won't allow the speed bleeder to seat.
Compare the internal profile of the stock bleeder with the speed bleeder and you'll see what I mean. Grind the speed bleeder to match and it should work provided the slave isn't cracked.
Of course if you have already done this, ignore...
cheers
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Yes, you can run without it. Many here have binned it completely. If your old one is a Bitubo - throw it away. They're garbage and you don't need to spend $ repairing garbage. I ran without mine when it started leaking and had no problems. I put on a Hyperpro damper and it transformed the bike. Not cheap but boy is the bike ever smooth now!
cheers
Puzzling questions
in Technical Topics
Posted
Both times when braking, pulls hard left. Screams brake problem to me. Especially the left front. Pull the calipers off, check for debris, check rotors are not bent/warped/damaged, check condition of brake pads, pull in brake lever and check if all pucks move (don't pull hard enough to move the pucks very much - risk shooting them out completely), you should be able to press them back in with your hands slowly, check the alignment of the calipers and rotors, and the caliper mounts. If free floating rotors on the 1100i, check that the rotors have some in and out flex at the float points.
good luck!