Barnapkin

I put a ghezzi and brian crossover on my 03, and it make a huge difference. Also make sure you check your cylinder stud torque. not uncommon to have them loosen - loss of compression results.

Rule#1 : never bring anything you love to the track. If you aren't willing to write it off, then watch from the stands, or get a dedicated track bike. I've seen too many crashes due to the other guy vs self.

So I reached out to Richard. He promptly replied, whom I wish was still making seats. He seems like a genuinely nice guy. His email response outlined some suppler based reasons why he is no longer working on seats; too bad. Below was part of his response about what he changes he makes on the seat; now time to find someone who can do it... "That is what got my business started. I did a couple hundred V11 seats over the years. There is not much room to do much to them. They are thinly padded to begin with up front. I used to used shave the raised crown under the tail bone area to dish it lightly and smooth it with a sander, then gel pad the entire top of the front. I would snip the edges of the gel pad to a steep angle to prevent and hard transition between gel and foam. Then I'd cover the front with a 1/2" layer of soft foam. I left the rear alone as most owners wanted the cowling to still fit there. The seat wound up feeling just a little bit taller up front but comfortable enough that you could ride tank to tank all day long. The rear could be reshaped for better passenger comfort (In 2003 my son and I took the 2 up LD award at the WV Rally on my V11S and he was very comfortable.) but that means the cowling can ever be used again on it. Just some stuff based on my own personal experience. Hope it helps you in your search for what you need." Still searching.

Anyone look at, or own, the Corbin seat? The pics look like the rider is "cupped" into one position.

I have carbon mistrals on my V11. Has anyone been able to find heel guards for the rear footpegs? Some chicks have taller hard heels that can scratch the cans. Thanks.

I used to run pilot powers on all my bikes, including the V11. Found that in Michigan in order to get to the few roads with turns you have to ride 3x the distance to get there on flat straight roads. My pilot powers would be squared off too early. Started switching to pilot roads, and really like the feel, wear, and wet performance. Tires are just like suspension settings, everyone has their own preferences. All the modern tires are great relative to a few years ago, and sport touring tires are worth consideration; especially for their wet performance. Swipe right on anyone's opinion that says tires X is the only one to use. Used Dunlops (206?) prior to my switch to Michelins. Started using Mich after doing track days. their taller "peaked" profiles seemed to be better on track with my Ducati 900, that was slower turning vs newer sport geometries. The pilot roads are more rounded like the Dunlops were. I run 34psi front and 32 rear. Any lower in front, and you risk having a Michigan pothole ding your rim. I've run those pressures on my street bikes for years. Same pilot power tires on track bike with 28 front 24 rear work well for most days, and adjust as the track heats up. Ride more, so you'll have more opportunities to try other brands!

Anyone see handlebar risers for the Lemans that will clear the larger fairing? Would the woodcrafts fit?

Here is a pic I posted not long ago. Added MotoBits rearsets to my V11 following a tip-over in which the stock brake lever snapped. Install was easy. Relocated the footpegs down AND forward. My FIL put over 200 miles on the bike a few weeks back, and he is 6'2. I'm 5'10 and find them better than the Buell footpegs that were on previously. The Buell footpegs only lowered the footpegs, so moving them forward really helped even more.

Bike has Mistrals. Had the Ti MG Performance cans, but they got bumped, and subsequently bent Unlike some of the guards I've seen on Ducatis, the heel ends up more in the middle of the can on the MG.

I read that as "If you drag one more motorcycle home I'm leaving" LOL My wife said that she doesn't mind having bike payments, as long as it one at a time!

The downfall of Forums, everyone is a comedian when someone has a real question.

The rear footpegs are right above the exhaust pipes. It is too easy for folks to put the heels of their boots on the pipes. I always have to tell folks, especially female passengers, NO high heels or boots with hard heels. Has anyone found good exhaust pipe heel guards?

Below is the similar assessment of the H-type crossover from the same bike boy dyno chart.

The crossover being from Ghezzi&Brian wasn't cheap; 370Euro. It is well made. I didn;t expect the bright stainless vs something brushed. I was looking for an X-Type crossover vs the H-type. I was basing my preferences from the Bike Boy dyno results. The H type crossovers seem to impede flow vs hurting flow. So far the bike seems to be a lot smoother in power delivery. If my bike is anything like the results below, one can see how there are fewer flat spots. The G&B crossover seems to be an even better x-Type design compared to the pics I have seen of the stucchi, wich I could not find. Butt dynos are unreliable, so in the end, it is up to the person paying to determine if they are satisfied.

HA! They do loosen up.

First I've seen on this being combustion related. Always attributed it to being some harmonic frequency due to the nature of the 90deg twin and internals. My bike has shook since day one. Keep engine speed at 5K, and it magically disappears. I have clipons with the Lemans, wonder if the bikes with bars have the same issue. Adding Throttlemeister bar-ends did help dampen the vibes, and you get the bonus of cruise control. I actually like the fat bar-ends to rest my hands upon. I may have to look into the motion pro Throttle balancing tool to see if that helps.

just an FYI if you are doing your own maintenance, make sure you check your cylinder studs every time you do the valves.

OK ... Cat - Blah Blah Blah Crossover - split pipes or shared flow. Sorry, I did not shine a flashlight in one pipe to check. Assumed there was shared flow. I did send email to Brian, But I bet he never replies because it's an implied function of a crossover. After some drama, I finally got to ride the bike last night. The 3500-5K hole is gone; wow! Top end did not feel OMG stronger, and quite frankly, with the bike's mass and tall gearing it is subjective on the butt dyno. Engine does feel smoother, and I'll assume because there are fewer flat spots in power output; again subjective butt dyno. Since I have the MG race ECM, the combo of BCM air filter (no lid), crossover, and cans all seem to like each other. That's what any of us would hope for. Took awhile to get the bike out for a ride because right as I was wheeling the bike off of the lift, the front tire slipped and tipped over. Regardless of my cursing and yanking on the handlebar, the bike did not stay up. Maybe I reduced the impact, yet the rear brake lever and right side footpeg snapped. Crappy cast parts. I had just finished working on my KTM dirtbike, so I assume there was some dusting of sand that I missed .. To quote my wife "don't use your man eyes!" After fishing on the internet, it became abundantly clear that there aren't many rearset options for the V11. I don't understand all the V7 love. I hadn't looked before because I had installed the Buell step-down footpegs when I bought the bike new. I ended up ordering the Motobits rearsets. They are very NICE! The 45mm forward positioning was immediately noticeable; even with my 32in inseam. Instructions were good, and the materials seem to be well made. Only clarifications I would make would be: 1 - Pointing out to remove the nut from the stock footpeg base to use a long 17MM wrench from the bottom. 2 - Removing the funky shaped shifter out first; no need to loosen the starter. Included a few pics.

I jokingly say: "Barnapkin is where all of the Lions fan's tears end up."

Everything installed OK. Had to do a little shifting around to get everything aligned. The kickstand would make contact with the front clamps. The G&B clamps are the size of the stock rear clamps. The stock fronts were spot welded into place, so I could not use the stock clamps. Bent the rubber kickstand bumper down a bit, and everything was well. Stock crossover and cat was lighter than I would have thought. Maybe only 5lbs saved. Sounds much deeper than the stock arrangement. I have BMC filter, FBF pipes, MG race ECU. Rainy day here, so waiting to take it out. Tried to post a vid, so you could hear it, but the file was too big for a 9 sec file.

How does timesert differ than helicoil?

OH BOY! another crossover post. Just received my X-type crossover from Ghezzi&Brian. Cannot wait to put it on, and hear/feel the difference. I already have the MG "Race" ecu, so it should be good to go without any fuss. Should save 20lbs of exhaust system weight, and I'll be able to change the oil without the mess. Hopefully, say good bye to that 4-4500 rpm hole.

I have the same opinion of my V11. I've let a few of my trusted friends ride it, who are track-multi-cyl riders, and they come away impressed with it's character and behavior. It won't win any drag races, yet I can ride all day and aren't worn out. I tend to ride my V11 more than my 900SS, which I thoroughly enjoy. Few twistys here in michigan, or too many flat miles to get to twistys, so the V11 is a better fit.

They are a good group - I rode Mosport with them one year.