rich888
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Posts posted by rich888
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2 hours ago, Meinolf said:
Hi,
setting the TPS baseline is the first step. Remember, all connections to the throttle must be removed before adjusting the voltage.
The valve play should be at least 0.2mm for Intake/Exhaust. 0,3mm is my recommendation, the V11 camshaft has very! long ramp-up slope, >100°. The standard setting will result in sligthly opened valves in that area, resulting in mean pressure loss and decreased valve cooling.
Once this is done sync the throttles in idle, try to keep the bypass screws completetely closed and do the sync with the throttle stop screws. CO trim should be set to 0 initially and only be changed if you have no means of actually measuring AFR.
GuzziDiag always works, but a KKL adapter with an original FTDI chip is needed. There a lot of counterfeit chips in the market, they will mostly not work.
Cheers
MeinolfThanks Meinolf. I have ordered a KKL lead with FTDI usb in.
On further investigation, I have disconnected the TB linkage and backed out the throttle stop fully, made sure the fast idle cam is not touching and saw the TPS baseline drop from 375mV to 80mV.
I now understand what's what! So I will set the TPS next and then do the balance.
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Quick update.
Learned that there are two wiring arrangments for TPS!
Anyway long story short, my TPS baseline is 375mV which is rather high!
Checked the relays. All but 1 are OMRON's. One is a Tyco. Terminals all look clean, no sign of green crust etc. I did notice that the printing on the relay cases is pretty poor, makes me wonder if they are fake Omron's LOL! Normally stuff like that is perfectly printed and not smuged!
Next hurdle is getting the GuzziDiag working. Doesn't seem to connect with either of my OBD/USB cables, which I use on my cars.... Plugged OBD into 3 pin 'fiat' adaptor, connected croc clips to battery. Hit Connect. Switch on ignition, but Guzzidiag says Igntion is not on. No sign of any comms between PC and OBD cable (it has data leds).
OBD/USB was on Com17, which GuzziDiag seemed to detect.
Is GuzziDiag fussy about OBD cables?
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OK, to answer my own question, there are two different wiring arrangements, for some reason.
I found another schematic with the wiper on the black/violet terminal C and +5v on the middle Yellow wire, which is how my V11 sport 2001 is wired! Phew. I tought I was going mad for a moment...
My TPS is reading 375mV with the throttle closed and cold start off!
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To set the baseline TPS voltage at 157mV, you measure across the outer two pins of the TPS, engine stopped, ignition on, correct?
According to the wiring diagram I looked at, the outer pins, A and C (Violet and Violet/Black), are each end of the potentiometer and Yellow (B) is the wiper, which will indicate the throttle position.
I am slighty confused about how altering the position of the TPS, rotating it relative to the throttle can make the voltage across the ends of the potentiometer change?
Surely it would change the voltage on the wiper (yellow middle terminal)?
I have something wrong here but not sure what!
Is the TPS not actually a potentiometer at all? (the wiring diagram shows it as one)
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Anyone have a part code for the TPS connector? I wanted to make a breakout Tee connector. There are a few types of automotive locking connectors about and I'm not sure how compatible they all are...
I believe they are Delphi (Now Aptiv) GT 150 series connectors. I think I have found the plug (male housing with female pins) but not sure about a female housing...
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8 hours ago, docc said:
Relay selection developed into a long investigation with a promising outcome.
The "Best Relay" thread specifies the OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 High Current relay. I've seen all kinds of attempts to use something lesser, but why?
No question tachometer issues along with running issues commonly = Relay#2. Relay#5 (the back one) is the other high current position, but replacing the entire set is a good idea.
There can also be issues with the connections in the relay bases. I like to use an electronics cleaner and Caig DeOxit®.
Kiwi_Roy gave us a whole tutorial on servicing loose relay bases:
The ORMON's are obsolete now aren't they?
(edit) Just found digi-key has a few of the SPST left but none of the SPDT, so bought 12! (to have some spares and avoid £12 shipping)
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25 minutes ago, docc said:
Thanks for the heads up on the broken link. I'll try and get those restored.
Running issues combined with tachometer misbehavior point to Relay #2. A complete upgrade to the Best Relays is likely in order.
Cheers docc. Will check relays again. I think they had been replaced...
What is the best choice for new relays these days?
(edit)
Did find these:
30A only though...
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Where can I get GuzziDiag? Links posted earlier seem to be 404....
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5 hours ago, JBBenson said:
Start here with basic tune up:
Thanks JBBenson, Already on it!
I found that the previous owner or the previous tuner has shaved off the insulation on the TPS wires to expose the conductors.... oh dear.... I think a tee connector would have been a better solution!
All of the fixings for the TPS ect have had paint or nail varnish put on to lock the screws, or maybe to show if they've been tampered with or moved...
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2 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:
The miss and the rev counter jumping around could be an electrical issue. Perhaps a loose ground, weak battery, or charging issue.
It is always good to check valves and TPS, but neither of those should be able to affect the rev counter like that.
The question is, does the issue with the mis-fire cause the rev counter to dance like that or does the issue with the rev counter dancing like that cause the mis-fire. Or are both simply symptoms of a larger problem.
Hi GuzziMoto,
I think the missfire makes the tacho drop off.
After checking valves which were a little tight, it seemed better but is still lumpy at 3k rpm, I think it is also worse when easing off the throttle.
Checked for cracked inlet rubbers. The one that connects the throttle body to the engine is perfect. There are a few cracks in the other one that goes off to the airbox. I would assume this one is less critical as it's upstream of the throttle body.
TB shafts have a little play in them, but it is only a tiny bit.... You can only just feel it.
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29 minutes ago, rich888 said:
I have a 2001 V11 Sport. It's my first Guzzi and my first 'proper' bike!
Took it out today for my first run, having passed my test yesterday (hoorah!)
I have noticed quite a severe missfire at around 3k rpm. The bike is very hesitant and the rev counter is swinging about like crazy.
At higher rpm (4k-6k) it seems fine and lower (2k) seems ok too.
I bought the bike before I had passed my test, so it has been sat in the garage for a few months with an occasional run up.
It has new plugs, which I will pop out later and check.
I have the bits for connecting up to the computer so can try some diagnostics.
It has no mods other than some afermarket rear cans.
31000 on the clock.
Any common reasons for this? What should I check first?
Any help muchly appreciated.
Cheers!
To reply to my own post, will check valves first, then TPS tune.
Already confused by valve clearances! Manual says intake 0.1mm and exhaust 0.15mm, but posts here say 0.15mm and 0.2mm... will check mine first anyway....
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I have a 2001 V11 Sport. It's my first Guzzi and my first 'proper' bike!
Took it out today for my first run, having passed my test yesterday (hoorah!)
I have noticed quite a severe missfire at around 3k rpm. The bike is very hesitant and the rev counter is swinging about like crazy.
At higher rpm (4k-6k) it seems fine and lower (2k) seems ok too.
I bought the bike before I had passed my test, so it has been sat in the garage for a few months with an occasional run up.
It has new plugs, which I will pop out later and check.
I have the bits for connecting up to the computer so can try some diagnostics.
It has no mods other than some afermarket rear cans.
31000 on the clock.
Any common reasons for this? What should I check first?
Any help muchly appreciated.
Cheers!
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Flat black powdercoating gives a finish that matches satin black paint.
Some powdercoaters have a minimum price, so you can get a few other bits done at the same time for "free."
Need ideas? Here's my ex-LeMans with some powercoated bits:
- Valve covers and guards
- Alternator cover
- Porkchops
- Footlevers
- footpegs and brackets
- Passenger pegs and brackets
- brake reservoir cover
- sidestand
- Lower subframe
- etc.
Very nice!
Is there a black coating (black ceramic?) that could go on the exhaust?
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Been on a few European trips with him and Karen, off again in September to Portugal
Sounds like it will be great. He tells me the roads there are fantastic.
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Hey Rich did you buy that bike from Lawrence?
Yep!
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Yeah, buddy! Sounds good!
I mean, it is kinda hard to tell on a video, but seems all good to me.
The noises might change after you adjust the valves and balance the throttle bodies per the "Decent Tune-up."
I always record how much I have to change a particular valve lash. It's never more than a thousandth, typically. So, if you find one several thousandths out (especially loose), that would make some noise.
Good to know that all these weird noises are 'normal'! All part of the character of the machine!
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More help required for new Guzzi owner!
Am I right in thinking that noise from the clutch release bearing when the clutch lever is pulled, is normal?
I also noticed that the valves (i think) are a little rattly. Not checked clearances yet, but when I do, anything else to look out for in there?
Brief vid on youtube so you can hear the noises! They sound worse on the video than in real life, but the clutch is making a noise like thin metal blades rubbing together.
(The bung is out on the clutch housing as i want to take a look inside with my inspection camera)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4vKjQ5aA9E
All replies and comments appreciated!
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All of the parameters of the basic state of tune must be correct regardless of whether you use a PC or not.
Here is a good starting point, without the PC, that requires a quality voltmeter, an intake balancing tool, guzzidiag software, and two or three cables (but no dyno sessions); Decent Tune-up:
https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610
You can then add the PC if that's what trips your trigger.
Thanks, I will track down an intake balance tool, I have the other bits!
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OK, some differing views there, but the state of the plugs didn't inspire me with confidence!
I'll see how she runs with new plugs, gapped to 0.7mm instead of 0.9mm, which is what they are at the moment...
I will have a look at the air filter too.
If I get the PC software and download the map that's in there, I guess someone here will be able to tell me what state of tune it's in?
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Recently acquired 2001 V11 Sport.
Just looking her over and found that the plugs look a bit sooty.
There is a Power Commander III fitted.
I was thinking of taking the PC off as I'd rather have the bike stock. I assume the stock ecu will just work without the PC inline and won't need re-programming?
I am thinking that it's over fueling and hence the sooty plugs.
Idle is a little uneven too.
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Thanks for the info...
Oddly one side looks mint, the other has bubbled and dulled slightly.
I have a sandblast cabinet, so I could strip them back.
I will see what local powder coaters would charge.
There are some other areas than could do with attention - front of the block and some smaller areas on the swing arm.
Headers are brown too, but that will just come back if I clean them back to new metal.
Just looking to tidy up a 2001 bike that I have just bought!
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Anyone tried polishing the valve covers?
If paint is the way to go, what paint and prep do people use?
Another TPS question!
in Technical Topics
Posted
Got it sussed now!
I eventually found the difficult to get at throttle stop screw. It's reading 80mV now, fully closed.
Here is the TPS profile, showing the change in slope and the lack of any drop outs: